A Tale Of Woe, Long Tube Headers

DUUUUDE!! You are so screwulated. What a hack your header guy turned out to be eh?

Clearancing that tube any further to give that clutch fork the necessary room to get by is the 100% wrong way to go. I don't know what is going on there that you have the interference like you do,....but that is one deal that checking in on "your guy" might have been prudent.

Maybe somebody has a different take on this,..but the driver side header looks wrongo to me.

Looks like he ruined a perfectly fine set of headers.

The 94 and later T5 transmissions use a longer input shaft, about 11/16" longer. This means that the bell housing is 11/16" longer and the T5 itself sits back 11/16". That also positions the clutch arm 11/16" back from the normal position, which gets you into the interference problem you are now having.

The fix is twofold:
Fix the transmission/bellhousing problem by either replacing the T5 input shaft, or finding an earlier model T5 and then replacing the bellhousing.
THEN
Find someone reliable to repair the damage done to the header pipes.

The other alternative is to go back to shorty headers and a stock design Cat type H pipe.


T5 identifier information.

On the tail shaft of the transmission, there will be a stamped aluminum tag. The tag will have a number on it that you can cross reference to the chart below. There is no other way to find out what type of T5 it is without disassembling it. All the rest of the numbers on the outside of the T5 case are part numbers which are not unique to any particular T5 model.

Remember that 94 - 97 T5's have a longer input shaft and can only be used with a 94-95 bell housing unless you modify or replace the input shaft.

T5's used with a 4 cylinder have a 3.93 first gear, reduced torque ratings and an input shaft pilot diameter that is smaller that the T5 used for V6 & V8 engines. The Pilot diameter is .59" compared to the .668" used on V6 & V8 T5's. It requires a different pilot bearing to be used with a V6 or V8. The pilot bearing you need is for a Ford Ranger diesel from AutoZone part #14672

Love the splice job on the O2 cable as well....

amen, that guy needs to stick to workin on his iroc

Really? The guy that did that hack job makes his living working on cars? I'd be going back to that nutswinger and have a friendly chat with him.

I would bring a tent, lawn chair and kiddy pool and place it right outside his bay door, ALL EYES on deck. That's absolutely no pride in his work.

A hydraulic clutch actuator assembly would be the only other choice. However it is just as expensive as replacing the trans and bellhousing with a shorter setup of used parts.
See http://www.mcleodracing.com/products/Hydraulic+Conversion+Kits.mcl

MONDONGO-NICA said:

ya, i'm going back there tomorrow lets see what he comes up with.

I still would like to know if it would it be possible to get a shorter fork? or cut it down?

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

I don't think you get a shorter fork,..and you for sure do no want to attempt to cut it down. Goes back to 5th grade when we all learned about leverage, pullies, angles and planes. If you attempt to cut it down,..the new intersect point for the clutch cable would require even more effort to disengage the clutch, maybe too much for the cable. Moving that intersect point in a half of an inch is not the right choice.
After looking at your options,....I'd go back to a set of shorties, have somebody patch that beat to death header tube,...and either resell them, or reinstall them after you make the required transmission changes.

Dam!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and i agree with everything madmike1157 just said in the post right above mine!