adjusting roller rockers

88_GT_5_oh

Sportin' a turbo 5.0 in Canadistan
Jul 4, 2004
1
0
1
WPG/MB/CA
my rockers have been making abit of noise so i am just gonna go over all of them. i have been reading these threads on this and just wanna make sure i got this 100% right.

make sure the valve is fully closed unlock the bolt, lossen the bolt off abit, then slowly tighten down the nut till the push rod doesn't spin with my fingers, then go 1/2 turn more and lock it. now i got 2 questions, when i am turning the push rod, do i tighten till i can not turn the push rod at all or just till theres some resistance? and also i did one and i can still wiggle the rocker arm side to side abit, should it be able to move or should it be more solid with little play?
 
Is this pedestal or stud mounted rockers? I know stud mounting adjustment pretty well...I've did it a few times...

On the pushrod spinning...you want to do it until you get a slight resistance to get "zero lash"...there really is a fine line between the resistance and it stopping but if you can get in the neighborhood of both of those (in between:shrug:) you'll be fine:nice:

Stud mounted adjustment:

“1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on. Only do one cylinder at a time.
2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.
3. To adjust, back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.
4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race applications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
There may be some initial valvetrain noise when the engine is first fired up but once oil pressure has stabilized and the engine heats up, it should quiet right down to a normal level.
Remember that some racier camshafts will have a mechanical sound to them and will not be a silent as factory units.”

And here is a article for pedestal mounted rockers...

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/453e.pdf
 
ya they are stud mounts, they're on my twisted wedge heads, and its 1.6 rockers, no wonder it ran real ruough there for a second, i went till i couldn't spin them, oh well live and learn i guess, it was my buddy who adjusted them before and it was his first time doing it too, so they were still a little "sloppy". tommorow after work i will finsh them off ( i better cause i got a meet at 7) good thing my winter beater is still insured or i would be out there for a while tonight


when i started it it sounded like i had a real wild cam lol, I only let it run for like 1/2 a second then i knew i did it wrong :)
 
Yeah follow the first set of instructions...and make sure that you have the guideplates set up properly...so your roller rockers don't come off and cause some damage to your valvetrain...