Hello. Wiring is not my thing, could use any advice anybody has. Just purchased a csr electric waterpump an not sure the safest or best way to wire it. I was planning on hooking it up to a toggle switch to turn it on an off. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Advice On Wiring Up A Csr Electric Waterpump
- Thread starter wolfe67
- Start date
Don't do that. It's a recipe for disaster on anything that's not a full-time track car.
Go to the auto store store and pick up a 30 amp or larger automotive relay. Pick up two or three spools of red and black (and yellow if three) wire that is the same gauge or larger than the wire on your pump. Pickup s couple of fuse taps and a 30 amp or larger in-line fuse. Terminal ends and a crimper would be good too.
Use a multi-meter or probe light to find an "ignition on", "ignition on" power source from your fuse box. Wire the relay control lead between this source and a good ground. Wire the pump from alternator post, positive side of the starter relay, or positive battery terimanl, to the in-line fuse then to the positive lead on the pump.
Install two switched poles of the relay in-line for the ground-wire between your pump and battery ground.
If you really want to get fancy, you can also install a timer that will continue to run the pump for a predetermined amount of time after the the ignition switch is turned to off.
This way... it's running when the car is running. You can also install a simple circuit to make a light come on if the pump ever doesn't. I like these because when the ignition switch is "on" the light is on. When the pump runs however, the light goes off. This circuit is slightly more complicated but I'm sure I can dig up or draw a diagram.
All connections should be soldered and heat shrinked!
Go to the auto store store and pick up a 30 amp or larger automotive relay. Pick up two or three spools of red and black (and yellow if three) wire that is the same gauge or larger than the wire on your pump. Pickup s couple of fuse taps and a 30 amp or larger in-line fuse. Terminal ends and a crimper would be good too.
Use a multi-meter or probe light to find an "ignition on", "ignition on" power source from your fuse box. Wire the relay control lead between this source and a good ground. Wire the pump from alternator post, positive side of the starter relay, or positive battery terimanl, to the in-line fuse then to the positive lead on the pump.
Install two switched poles of the relay in-line for the ground-wire between your pump and battery ground.
If you really want to get fancy, you can also install a timer that will continue to run the pump for a predetermined amount of time after the the ignition switch is turned to off.
This way... it's running when the car is running. You can also install a simple circuit to make a light come on if the pump ever doesn't. I like these because when the ignition switch is "on" the light is on. When the pump runs however, the light goes off. This circuit is slightly more complicated but I'm sure I can dig up or draw a diagram.
All connections should be soldered and heat shrinked!
You kinda lost me their for a bit. But I figured out what your saying. But my car doesn't get driven on the street very much. Maybe 50 miles at year tops. I just bought a painless wiring control panel pn50430 it's made to fit in the foxbodys factory radio slot. So now I'm planning on changing my electric fuel pump ( which turns on everytime I turn the key on) so I'm planning on hooking that an my electric fan an my electric waterpump up to my control panel. I was thinking about putting in a separate fuse panel for all of them an going thru that to the painless control panel.. An since the control panel has 6 switches on it, it has the push button start button so I'd like to change my ignition over from key start to the push botton. So I kinda changed plans on what I Wana do since my posting. My cars used 95% of the time at the track. Thanks for the reply
I get what your intention is here but I recommend that you do not mess with the wiring of the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay.... PARTICULARLY if as you say, "Wiring is not my thing".
You can still use (and I would) the control panel that you purchased. Take your time and think about how you want everything to function. Don't worry about the wiring right now, just about how you would like it to operate so that it doesn't cause you or the car any problems.
I'm pretty good with wiring etc. JRichker, who posted that image above for you, is even better. I'm sure we can help you come up with something that includes fail-safe measures.
You can still use (and I would) the control panel that you purchased. Take your time and think about how you want everything to function. Don't worry about the wiring right now, just about how you would like it to operate so that it doesn't cause you or the car any problems.
I'm pretty good with wiring etc. JRichker, who posted that image above for you, is even better. I'm sure we can help you come up with something that includes fail-safe measures.
That diagram is about as easy as it gets. It'slike a crayola treasure map. Start at one end and trace the lines straight to the other side.
Well I did a little research and ordered wiring relay kits for my water pump, fuel pump, an fan. I ordered it from Ron Francis wiring. Looks like some nice products. I think I have it all figured out. Besides the push button start. Didnt do any research on that yet. Im just anxious to receive all my parts and get working on it.
Good deal.
I would still advise that you not tamper with the fuel pump relay. That relay is tied in with the EEC and is also tied in with an inertia switch through the ignition in the car. That inertial relay circuit is nice to have either on or off the track.
Since you have said that you have a low level of proficiency in electrical matters, here's some help before you get started.
Automotive circuits are mostly simple stuff: a power source, a connection path, a control device, a load, and a ground.
The battery/alternator is the positive power source.
The wire and fuses are the connection path.
Control devices are switches, relays and sensors.
A load is a light, motor, solenoid, relay coil or heater element.
In automotive circuits, grounds are the return path so the electrical power can flow from the load to the negative side of the power source.
Electricity flows like water:
Voltage is like pressure,
Current in amps is like volume,
Resistance is like the kink you put in a garden hose to decrease the pressure or volume.
Power is pressure multiplied by volume or voltage multiplied by current (amps)
Digest that, and you just got the first 3 days of Electricity 101.
Use some jumper wires (connection path and ground) to hook up a switch (control device), a battery (power source), a light bulb (load). Now make the light turn on and off with the switch.
That's the electrical lab for the first week of Electricity 101.
For free automotive electrical training, see Automotive Training and Resource Site . I have personally reviewed the material and it is very good. If you are new to automotive electrical troubleshooting, I highly recommend you spend a hour or so going through the material. You'll save at least that much time troubleshooting problems.
Using a Multimeter
Almost every meter has a different method for showing an open circuit. An open circuit is one with a break in it somewhere. That break can be a switch turned off, a fuse blown, a lamp burned out, a bad connector, a damaged circuit board or a cut or burned wire.
Without reading the instruction manual that came with your meter, I would not try to guess what your readings mean.
Step 1.) Find the instruction book that came with your Multimeter or DVM. Read it and familiarize yourself with how it works and how use it. If you lost the book or didn’t get one with it, do a Google search on the web to find the manufacturer’s web site & download a copy of the manual. Remember that while some meters auto-range to find the correct voltage range, the Ohms function ranges are usually set by the selector switch. Most of the resistance testing done in automotive troubleshooting uses the lowest Ohms range possible.
Step 2. ) Make sure that you know what test lead plugs into which jacks on the Multimeter or DVM. There are usually several different jacks on most Multimeters, and they have different functions. Make sure that your battery(s) in the Multimeter or DVM are good: if you have any doubts, replace the battery(s).
Step 3.) Once you are sure that the Multimeter or DVM is functional and you have the leads plugged into the jacks for Ohms ( the Ω symbol), do some simple measurements to make sure that you know how to use it correctly. Set the switch to the lowest range and touch the leads together: you should not see “nothing” but you should see 0.3-1.0 ohms. Measure a 60 watt light bulb: cold it will measure about 17.5 Ohms. It you measure it while it is hot, the reading will be greater.
Step 4.) Make several test measurements using the ohms function and the DC volts function. Remember all resistance measurements must be done with the power off the circuit. This avoids false readings and possible damage to the ohmmeter.. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until you are sure that you can do it without making any mistakes.
Step 5.) Then see | Repair Guides | Understanding And Troubleshooting Electrical Systems | Basic Electrical Theory | AutoZone.com and carefully study ALL the information under the Heading Chassis Electrical, Basic Electricity – Understanding & Troubleshooting
Step 6.) Apply what you have learned and make the test measurements using the information in the wiring diagrams & my previous posts.
Don't be in too much of a hurry to bolt all the new, pretty, shiny parts together. Take the simple steps now and you will save yourself lots of time and trouble later.
Automotive circuits are mostly simple stuff: a power source, a connection path, a control device, a load, and a ground.
The battery/alternator is the positive power source.
The wire and fuses are the connection path.
Control devices are switches, relays and sensors.
A load is a light, motor, solenoid, relay coil or heater element.
In automotive circuits, grounds are the return path so the electrical power can flow from the load to the negative side of the power source.
Electricity flows like water:
Voltage is like pressure,
Current in amps is like volume,
Resistance is like the kink you put in a garden hose to decrease the pressure or volume.
Power is pressure multiplied by volume or voltage multiplied by current (amps)
Digest that, and you just got the first 3 days of Electricity 101.
Use some jumper wires (connection path and ground) to hook up a switch (control device), a battery (power source), a light bulb (load). Now make the light turn on and off with the switch.
That's the electrical lab for the first week of Electricity 101.
For free automotive electrical training, see Automotive Training and Resource Site . I have personally reviewed the material and it is very good. If you are new to automotive electrical troubleshooting, I highly recommend you spend a hour or so going through the material. You'll save at least that much time troubleshooting problems.
Using a Multimeter
Almost every meter has a different method for showing an open circuit. An open circuit is one with a break in it somewhere. That break can be a switch turned off, a fuse blown, a lamp burned out, a bad connector, a damaged circuit board or a cut or burned wire.
Without reading the instruction manual that came with your meter, I would not try to guess what your readings mean.
Step 1.) Find the instruction book that came with your Multimeter or DVM. Read it and familiarize yourself with how it works and how use it. If you lost the book or didn’t get one with it, do a Google search on the web to find the manufacturer’s web site & download a copy of the manual. Remember that while some meters auto-range to find the correct voltage range, the Ohms function ranges are usually set by the selector switch. Most of the resistance testing done in automotive troubleshooting uses the lowest Ohms range possible.
Step 2. ) Make sure that you know what test lead plugs into which jacks on the Multimeter or DVM. There are usually several different jacks on most Multimeters, and they have different functions. Make sure that your battery(s) in the Multimeter or DVM are good: if you have any doubts, replace the battery(s).
Step 3.) Once you are sure that the Multimeter or DVM is functional and you have the leads plugged into the jacks for Ohms ( the Ω symbol), do some simple measurements to make sure that you know how to use it correctly. Set the switch to the lowest range and touch the leads together: you should not see “nothing” but you should see 0.3-1.0 ohms. Measure a 60 watt light bulb: cold it will measure about 17.5 Ohms. It you measure it while it is hot, the reading will be greater.
Step 4.) Make several test measurements using the ohms function and the DC volts function. Remember all resistance measurements must be done with the power off the circuit. This avoids false readings and possible damage to the ohmmeter.. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until you are sure that you can do it without making any mistakes.
Step 5.) Then see | Repair Guides | Understanding And Troubleshooting Electrical Systems | Basic Electrical Theory | AutoZone.com and carefully study ALL the information under the Heading Chassis Electrical, Basic Electricity – Understanding & Troubleshooting
Step 6.) Apply what you have learned and make the test measurements using the information in the wiring diagrams & my previous posts.
Don't be in too much of a hurry to bolt all the new, pretty, shiny parts together. Take the simple steps now and you will save yourself lots of time and trouble later.
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