You post is very difficult to read. I suggest you edit it to include capital letters to start a sentence and a period ( . ) to end it.
Good grammar accomplishes two things:
1.) It communicates your message clearly.
2.) It keeps people from thinking you lack intelligence. If they think you aren't very smart, they will not be inclined to help you because it is a waste of their time.
Copied from mustang88GT: Adding a "Check Engine" light
I have not finished it yet but I put the bulb in and it works. There are wires that you can tap into and run to the self test connector. The reason I have not run the wires yet is because I am tripping 2 codes because I did not run wires for the secondary fuel pump or speed senor yet for the MAF conversion... but it should be real easy to do here is
Adding a "Check Engine" light
Another difference between the speed density and MAF cars is that MAF cars have a "Check Engine" light in the dash to alert you to possible serious problems and it makes reading out self test codes much easier. The MAF cars have the "Check Engine" light located in the light panel on the lower right of the instrument cluster. Speed density cars don't have this window, but there is a "Check Engine" position for a light in the tachometer face, though there is no bulb installed. The wire from the EEC to the bulb (via the flex connector) is also missing.
In the '88 harness (not sure of other years), there is a tan and a black/blue wire connecting up to the 'Check Engine' circuit on the instrument cluster flex circuit. For MAF models, the tan wire hooks to the EEC STO/MIL line and the black/blue is for the lamp test out when you start the car. I don't know what these are connected to in an '88, but the test out feature does not work, and the STO/MIL line at the EEC-IV and self test connector is yellow/black. The wires connected to the check engine lamp probably end at some open connector somewhere, but I couldn't track it down, so I cut the tan and black/blue wires off the flex connector and ran a new wire to the STO/MIL wire on the self test connector under the hood (you could also tap in by the EEC-IV, but it was easier for me to go through the firewall. You can get a bulb socket from the HELP! rack at the local parts store, put in a N194 bulb, and voila, you now have a working check engine light.