ahh duhh, what type of oil?

I know some crazy people(mainly me) that cut the bottom of the can off and remove the filter element to see what materials the filter caught. Especially after a rebuild.


MSM0075:
Its funny the common filter doesn't fit with the cooler. All of my turbo motors have a cooler. Does your cooler also turn the filter 90*? I think they only used that on merks but it accepts the FL1A.
How about an FL820? thats a little smaller.

Motorcraft filter and mobile1 10-30

Fram bites.

This isn't as simple to me as asking what oil people use in there cars. The weight of the oil really depends on a few things like the time of year it is. In the Summer you probly would do better to use a Heavyer oil like 10-40. The summer temps will break the oil down faster so a heavy oil is slower to break down. Now in the winter time a lighter weight oil is better. A heavyer oil in the winter will move slower because of the cold temps even when driving around. Then you got you Snythic oils. If your motor burns a lot of oil I probly wouldn't use a synthic oil. Also do not use a snythic oil on a Brand new motor until your second oil change. If you use a synthic on new rings they may not seal right so you want to put like a 1000 miles on it before switching to a synthic. I think they got a new way of honing a block out where you don't have to do this but I would rather be safe than sorry.

**Now a exception on the oil weigh in my book. I want use a light oil on a motor than burns oil like crazy in the winter. If I have a motor that burns oil like crazy I use the heaviest oil I can year round. It maybe stupid but I think a thinker oil slips by rings less than a lighter oil. thats my opinion***


Now the brands of oil is a whole other science. I basicaly just use Castrol GTX. I cannot explain this and hope someone else can. The reason is there is some oils (I think detargent oil) that clog up the motor by collecting dirt I think. I also think the oils you want to use are ones of vegetaion but don't quote me. The oil I know of that will mess a motor up in time is Penzoil. I know theres a lot more out there but I don't have personal expreince with them.

As for the Filters don't use Fram products unless you really hate your car. These guys has been using 1960' technology for to damn long. If you think a Fram is good go buy both a Fram and a AC Delco. Then get a filter cutter and open them up. I promise you that you will never want a fram again. There was a site where a guy did research on this and Fram sued the guy over it because he proved they sucked bad. I really can't say which filter is better but I try to use MotorCraft on my Fords and AC Delco on the Tahoe.

Hope this helps and someone can explain the problematic oils better. I had a whole write up on it but it got deleted

Anyone hear anything bad about Puralator (sp?) Pure One filters? I have been using that and Valvoline Full synthetic for a couple of years on the 5.0.

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I am going to have to cut one of mine open. Maybe I will start using Bosch, as they are available.

what about the NAPA ones? I have heard mixed on that.

I use nothing but Castrol in my motors.
On a new rebuild I use a cheap 30w and run it for a couple days (100mi or so) and then drain it and change both the oil and filter. This is the way my first motor was broke in and the information came from a well respected engine shop. Of course you dont be racing it the first 100-500 miles. I wish I could find the book they gave me again, it was good.

My Black Beast said:

Anyone hear anything bad about Puraline Pure One filters? I have been using that and Valvoline Full synthetic for a couple of years on the 5.0.

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I haven't heard anything about the purple filters but I have heard bad things on Valvoline oil. Now I'm not sure how ever if there synthetics fall into that catogory. I really need to find my site on this imformation because I can't remember enough to explain it right.