Pro-Hawk said:I haven't heard anything about the purple filters but I have heard bad things on Valvoline oil. Now I'm not sure how ever if there synthetics fall into that catogory. I really need to find my site on this imformation because I can't remember enough to explain it right.
JamesBaumann said:Uh oh, I've been using Valvoline 10w30 in my Mustang since the rebuild.
tregore said:I work at wal-mart in the automotive dept. The weights of oils all depend on what year car you guys use it in. the 10w means that in the cold it acts like a 10 weight oil. the 30 means in the heat it acts like a 30 weight oil. In a newer car (94 up) you only want to use 5w30 as the oil passages in a newer car and bearing passages are smaller and when you start that engine with a heavier oil like 10w or higher it wont get into those bearings as quickly on your start up. On a rebuilt I would deffinitly use a 5w for the protection. On an older engine thats used I would use a 10w for that start up protection. The only reason you would want to use like a 10w40 or a 20w50 is to slow engine leaks. And that harms your motor more than anything. It may slow the leaks but it harms the engine dramatically. During the winter you deffinitly want the lower weights. 15w40 is for diesels because its in their make of the motor to burn oil. hint hint, heavier oil is for burning oil engines. as far as brands go castrol gtx is the best. pennzoil the worst, and I hate to say it you guys but motorcraft oil is made by pennzoil/quakerstate. just read the back of the bottle. Also motorcraft filters are made by the honeywell corporation. which guess what. Also makes fram filters. I will agree they are made differently though. But they are still made by fram. Im sure i"ll catch alot of flak for saying that. Any questions or comments I'd love to hear em.
MSM0075 said:Intresting information. So motocraft filters are really made by fram? That sucks.
I bought a 6pack case of Castrol GTX "Start Up" 10w30 for my '88LX. Bottom end has about 150K on it. 17$ for the case.
tregore said:I work at wal-mart in the automotive dept. The weights of oils all depend on what year car you guys use it in. the 10w means that in the cold it acts like a 10 weight oil. the 30 means in the heat it acts like a 30 weight oil. In a newer car (94 up) you only want to use 5w30 as the oil passages in a newer car and bearing passages are smaller and when you start that engine with a heavier oil like 10w or higher it wont get into those bearings as quickly on your start up. On a rebuilt I would deffinitly use a 5w for the protection. On an older engine thats used I would use a 10w for that start up protection. The only reason you would want to use like a 10w40 or a 20w50 is to slow engine leaks. And that harms your motor more than anything. It may slow the leaks but it harms the engine dramatically. During the winter you deffinitly want the lower weights. 15w40 is for diesels because its in their make of the motor to burn oil. hint hint, heavier oil is for burning oil engines. as far as brands go castrol gtx is the best. pennzoil the worst, and I hate to say it you guys but motorcraft oil is made by pennzoil/quakerstate. just read the back of the bottle. Also motorcraft filters are made by the honeywell corporation. which guess what. Also makes fram filters. I will agree they are made differently though. But they are still made by fram. Im sure i"ll catch alot of flak for saying that. Any questions or comments I'd love to hear em.
is the mobil one 20/50 pretty good? I run 20w50 castrol gtx in the MG, it leaks oil though so i havent wanted to put any Syn in. It would just leak faster.Mike SVOR said:For the past 2 years, I've been running 20w 50 Mobil 1 since I don't put that many miles on my car. It's worth it.
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