Ahh More Problems ='(

[xtr3m3]

Ok... I think every time I have posted I have problems with this dang stang!! LoL

Ok here we go I am going to give list of symptoms hopefully I can get some good answers im sick of spending money and nothing being fixed hehe



-First What has been replaced through visits at the shop....

Clutch,flywheel,TOB
New Fuel Injectors, washers, orings, and also fuel regulator
sparkplugs, wires, cap, and rotor

The main motor has been completely re-done but not at a shop

-Here the problems from start to finish


-The car runs like garbage!! Thats all..



I've been having problems with acceleration.. HP Loss.. Spark knock high alternator charge, even pulsating amp needle

-My RPM is sitting at 1k an cannot get it to lower


-My car runs rich and lean with gas..

the car was scanned and the gas going per injector is not constant it fluxuates quite a bit.. not sure of the exact numbers but I want to say between 2 - 5lbs of pressure..


-Im getting maybe 4-10miles per gallon it does depend on the car


-When I first start the car I have to give it more gas when pulling into traffic or it will fall on its face a little bit..


When the car is warm.. Its hard to start I have to keep giving it gas or it will stall until i get the car over 20MPH an it will stay running


-I have a spark knock in the first cylinder when I take the wire out it stops.. but when I get on it I hear a ticking sound..

-I changed the plugs and wires doesnt seem to be helping that..

-WHEN I GET ON THE ACCELERATOR HARD.. the car sounds louder then its moving seems to be held back..

The timing is fine for ignition


I know my EGR is screwed it is not functioning as I have capped it off on both sides so there is no leaks




-These are the main issues.. Im so confused right now I just want to buy a moped! haha



Waiting for some great answers!

 

[gcomfx.com]

Post your codes. I'm sure it has several.

 

[Zero Signal]

90% of the time you have global chaos like that, it comes down to ONE stupid little thing too. The trick is finding the bad egg. If you take it to Ford the first two things they will always do is scan it and give every harness the wiggle test.

If you haven't already . . .

• Harness wiggle test
• Redo BOTH your engine grounds
• Clean up connections on the power block at the fuse box and check for corrosion
• Clean your MAF sensor and make sure it's plugged in snug

It sounds to me like an electrical or ignition problem. You have the EGR tubes plugged, I would unplug the electrical harness from the EGR valve if you haven't already just to see what it does. If you have it unplugged, try plugging it in and see what it does. For the record, I had mine completely unplugged but I also have a TwEECer to turn off that function in the computer.

 

[xtr3m3]

OH i forgot to mention.. WHen I was adjusting my timing.. moving the distributor or whatever.. it shocks me here and there.. also the fuel pump turns off an on when the car is off..

The wires are fine an brand new not sure what else would be doing that.. That may be one big problem I have

Also when I drive sometimes the amp gauge flickers from a possible arc

 

[HISSIN50]

Codes?

You said:
"-I have a spark knock in the first cylinder when I take the wire out it stops.. but when I get on it I hear a ticking sound.."


It sure sounds like a bad plug wire. I would swap the wire with another one and see if the issue follows the wire. Also, when you run a cylinder balance test, does the car pass? If you're totally grounding out spark, it won't.

It sounds like you have a vac leak. This can cause the hanging idle. And I like John's idea to clean the MAF wires if you have not.

If you can view PIDs, now is a time to do it. With some many issues, it would be nice to stream data in real time.

Good luck.

 

[xtr3m3]

The MAF sensor seems to be running fine.. When I unplug it the car will die...


Also, Vac leak I checked all the lines it doesnt seem to be leaking anywhere noticable I mean there are only so many and a few of them have been sealed as they are not being used anymore.. for emission purposes.. I know the EGR is stuck open the valve is an I mean its plugged in.. When I disconnect it.. The car acts the same but seems to function a bit retarted.. SO that sensor may need to be replaced or a block off plate..

-Now the wires I have changed them but I will change the first one just to see if maybe a bad wire..


What would you suggest as the reason why I am being shocked when turning the distributor for timing.. I mean if its not WIRES then where would it be coming from..

When I did a full scan on the system it just showed an issue with the fuel.. aka each injector was not sending the correct fuel .. just jumped around.. so it ran RICH/LEAN

 

[Bosko5.0]

What injector size do you have?

 

[xtr3m3]

19's stock for now

 

[Bosko5.0]

Are they all the same brand? Have you checked the ohms of the injectors? What color are they? (just to be sure) Also check the injector wiring with a noid light.

And pull codes!

How much vaccum do you have?

 

[HISSIN50]

The stock trim jumps from rich to lean. It's by design. Let's say you were teaching a kid to bowl and you put 2x4's down the lane, each 1' from the center of the lane. The kid could throw the ball down any old way and the ball would bounce back and forth between the two runs of wood, eventually allowing the ball to end up in the middle of the lane by the time it reached the pins. Same kinda deal with the A/F monitoring.

A MAF can be dirty or totally out of whack and the car still runs. The puter is just receiving incorrect info (very bad on a load-based processor). Wes recently taught me that a dirty element can cause a two-fold WOT issue. The dirty sensor causes leanness at WOT. The dirty sensor also causes richness at idle. The adaptive control can allow the lean adaptation to transcend the MAF function, causing further leanness at WOT. In other words, everything ends up out of whack.

If your EGR was actually stuck open, the car would barely idle and run like total crap.

Vac leaks are a real PITA to track down. You just have to get it done though. Folks have various methods they might talk about (I wont for fire hazard concerns).

You needn't even buy new wires. Just swap the bad one with another and see if the clicking follows the wire or stays with the cylinder. It should follow the wire. I have used various materials to insulate a leaky wire in the past. It works for diagnostics.

If you have an ignition in decent shape and you have your other hand touching metal (I lean on the radiator support when I work on things, for instance), that can allow a shock to occur. Given your other issue however, the wires are suspect. You could mist the wires with water from a spray bottle (in the dark - BE CAREFUL OF MOVING ENGINE PARTS!) to see where the wires are leaking.

Rediculously large plug gaps can cause issues, as can the wrong plugs (wrong reach) for the application.

Good luck.

 

[xtr3m3]

thanks I will change the MAF just to see if it does something different.. it just seems problems never end with this.. haha I guess it will take some time to get them all tracked.. I am leaning towards sensors.. I wanna say some of them may have over 170-200k+ on them!

 

[ProKiller]

why change it when you can just clean it. get some alcohol and cuitips and gently swab the bars in the sensor. plug it back in. end of story. i'd lean towards that causing some of your problems.