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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-

Alright, I Want Back In, Now!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter chrisconsin
  • Start date Start date Apr 20, 2010

chrisconsin

Member
Jun 24, 2007
43
0
6
Washington
Apr 20, 2010
#1
  • Apr 20, 2010
  • #1
All right it’s been too long and I want (NEED) back in. I sold my mustang late September last year because I was purchasing a house and needed to downgrade in toys. I choose my mustang over my boat and now I regret doing so, to the point that I just sold my boat to purchase another mustang. The dilemma is I’m not sure what direction to take because this time I wanna make some serious power.
My goal is to make a stick shift weekend street warrior that would see the ¼ mi strip 4 or 5 times a year and I want it to trap low 10 sec runs and clip 9.99 sec even just once for pure bragging rights.
I initially was looking at getting a low mileage stock 03/04 cobra and strapping on a KB with supporting mods and call it a day.

But now I am heavily contemplating on finding a "clean" high millage/tired new edge GT (best body style) for the right price…cheap! and building my own street car. I think it would be a fun and challenging project. I was looking at the Street Mod 4.6 900 2V Longblock (or possibly the 5.4 2v) from mmr due to price and putting all the extras on trick flow heads, aggressive cams, racing oil pump and high lift valve springs. The 4v with extras is just a little to $teep for me.

My question is am I wrong to think the “building my own” route won’t cost more that the cobra route I figured a low mileage cobra go for a little over 20k and a KB with supporting mods and tune is about 10k (correct me if I’m wrong) so the cobra would cost ATLEAST 30k.
Am I crazy for thinking I can build my own RELIABLE setup for 20 to 25k?, minus the cost of the car and tune I would be doing the labor myself. Looking at the price of the transmission, rear end, fuel system, suspension, and POWER ADDER! it looks possible but I know all those “little things” add up.

BOTTOM LINE, I don’t have the funds for trial and error, or to majorly change my setup, I have to stick with what I choose. I want it to be very reliable while I beat the snot out of it. I am leaning towards the turbo (or turbos) setup but the install seems intimidating so I am also looking at the mammoth kenne bell setup cost wise they seem similar. One down side to the KB is the hood has to be replaced I like the stock sleeper look, until they here it idle.
I don’t plan on using race gas and DO NOT wanna use nitrous to achieve my ¼ mile goals. I understand tune is a major part of achieving this while being reliable.


I did hours of searches and was unable to find anyone else in my situation. I do understand if I build my own it will be in the garage more than on the streets and I’m okay with that.
Sorry for the lengthy post but this is a big purchase and if I build my own I don’t wanna end up with a half finished project.

Thanks in advance I welcome all comments and appreciate the help with this possible project. :SNSign:

I just want back in!!!
-Chris

Just in case: “Performance” first…”looks” second
 
M

Moon

Member
Mar 22, 2010
190
0
16
Close to Chicago
Apr 20, 2010
#2
  • Apr 20, 2010
  • #2
First, let me say **** Wisconsin. Your potholes suck

Next, a GT will be cheaper in the long run. A 2 valve can be built to make as much power as a 4 valve. I've heard the block is good to around 700 hp. I'd say, get yourself a pair of Trickflow heads; they flow more so it'll be easier to make power with a power adder. Go with whatever power adder you want. MPH's Mongoose Kit will add on at least 120+ hp for around $3,900. All of this can go on the stock block, just get a forged rotating assembly to handle the power; I have no clue what brands, someone can chime in. Then get Maximum Motorsports' Road and Track kit- that'll help you get the power to the ground. As far as transmissions, even the 4R70W can withstand up to 500 hp with a shift kit and trans cooler. Manual= buy a TKO 600.

Depending on what you eventually end up with, it shouldn't be more than $20k.
 

streethorse

15 Year Member
Oct 8, 2005
1,042
6
58
Dallas Texas
Apr 20, 2010
#3
  • Apr 20, 2010
  • #3
Welcome back...... If I had the 20 grand I would go find a low mile
03/04 Cobra. You would already be way ahead and have a fast car
from day 1.
 

KBExperience

Active Member
Jun 21, 2009
466
1
49
Houston
Apr 20, 2010
#4
  • Apr 20, 2010
  • #4
Ha. The block is not good for 700hp.. 430hp IF you're lucky
 

bhuff30

Founding Member
Dec 11, 2001
6,037
35
129
Olathe KS
Apr 20, 2010
#5
  • Apr 20, 2010
  • #5
Sorry, I stopped reading when you said you wanted low 10s stick shift car.

Start small and work your way up. Sure, you can make the power to run low 10s, but there is a big difference between making the power and having the car setup well enough to run it. It isn't just parts you purchase for xxx use... but a carefully tuned combination and it will take a while to sort it out.
 

D-BOI

Member
Mar 26, 2009
596
1
17
Metro Detro
Apr 20, 2010
#6
  • Apr 20, 2010
  • #6
streethorse said:
Welcome back...... If I had the 20 grand I would go find a low mile
03/04 Cobra. You would already be way ahead and have a fast car
from day 1.
Click to expand...

Think no further, the termi cobra is the way to go if you have the cash for it
 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
4,749
95
134
Apr 20, 2010
#7
  • Apr 20, 2010
  • #7
Quick way to get back in, give me $25k for my Cobra... Easy peasy...
 
B

Barnaby

Founding Member
Dec 2, 1999
596
0
0
Albuquerque, NM
Apr 20, 2010
#8
  • Apr 20, 2010
  • #8
KBExperience said:
Ha. The block is not good for 700hp.. 430hp IF you're lucky
Click to expand...
By block I think he meant the actual block itself, not the internals.
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
7
89
the people's republic of massachusetts
Apr 20, 2010
#9
  • Apr 20, 2010
  • #9
Barnaby said:
By block I think he meant the actual block itself, not the internals.
Click to expand...

+1 I am sure thats what he meant. the modular blocks are very stout once you put the right internals in it. Thats why you don't see aftermarket modular blocks.. Not really needed
 

S&B

I hate my CT. :(
10 Year Member
Dec 18, 2005
1,634
695
204
Cheesehead
Apr 20, 2010
#10
  • Apr 20, 2010
  • #10
Kilgore Trout said:
Quick way to get back in, give me $25k for my Cobra... Easy peasy...
Click to expand...

I never read anything about him wanting a cobra with red leather inserts


save your self the time and agrivation of building a car, you'll end up hating mustang b/c you want to drive the car not work on it. Buy a cobra drive it for a year find out how nice it is to turn the key have the a/c on and cruise.
 
M

Moon

Member
Mar 22, 2010
190
0
16
Close to Chicago
Apr 20, 2010
#11
  • Apr 20, 2010
  • #11
Barnaby said:
By block I think he meant the actual block itself, not the internals.
Click to expand...

Yes sir, which is also why I mentioned later in my post to get a nice forged rotating assembly. Reading comprehension is important, KBExperience.
 

KBExperience

Active Member
Jun 21, 2009
466
1
49
Houston
Apr 20, 2010
#12
  • Apr 20, 2010
  • #12
okay, okay guys.. I suck















 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
4,749
95
134
Apr 21, 2010
#13
  • Apr 21, 2010
  • #13
S&B said:
I never read anything about him wanting a cobra with red leather inserts
Click to expand...
the red grows on ya, I hated it at first but I am used to it now... The red is kinda like the bright markings on a poison dart frog, it lets others know that this is not your run of the mill car but rather its quite venomous...
 
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