Alternatives to dccontrol e fan controller

HISSIN50 · Feb 22, 2008

monte87 said:
I do have a 75 amp BOSCH relay along with a 100 amp circuit breaker. The thermal switch is hooked upto Ground and my wiring is 8 guage. i forgot to mention that in my reply. I know at least about 4 toher guys who have the same set up-Trouble free for years.

Later Ant

Ant, in the event of a short, do you have any concerns about the circuit breaker not blowing before the wiring catches on fire?

85_SS_302_Coupe · Feb 22, 2008

Fett said:
I used a VW (80s Jetta) switch on mine, run through a 70amp relay and a large 40 amp fuse.

With the Taurus fan, I recommend wiring it up to the low side of the fan. I originally had it wired to the high side, but it was such a nasty start up, and really overkill for simple cooling purposes. I live in South Florida, and the low side on a stock rad keeps my car as cool as it needs to be. Another thing I noticed, it really seems like the low side of the fan has a slow start, where as the high side just KICKS on. Either way, I am very happy using the low side for cooling, and I am in the process of using a series of relays to hook up the high side of the fan to my AC, so basically it will work as it was supposed to. Low side for keeping the car cool, high side for blowing more air over the AC condenser.

Maybe wire it up with the controller on the low side and run a toggle to the interior for switching it on high manually for times when maybe you're racing or stuck in traffic on a super hot day.

Fett · Feb 22, 2008

Na, I don't like the idea of a toggle switch because I am horribly forgetful. Which is why I went with a thermoswitch, because I wanted everything to be automatic.

I drive in South Florida heat, and the fan has never let it get above mid, even standing still. The problem I was having was that my AC was only blowing cold when the fan was running due to engine temp. So by using the low side for cooling and the high side for AC, it should work how it was originally intended. If need be, I can always turn on my AC to get the fan to stay on high.

I basically want it to work how it does normally, low for cooling, high for cooling off the AC condenser.

jrichker · Feb 22, 2008

monte87 said:
I do have a 75 amp BOSCH relay along with a 100 amp circuit breaker. The thermal switch is hooked upto Ground and my wiring is 8 guage. i forgot to mention that in my reply. I know at least about 4 toher guys who have the same set up-Trouble free for years.

Later Ant

Wire size current table:
18 gauge wire = 5-8 amps
16 gauge wire = 10-12 amps
14 gauge wire = 15-17 amps
12 gauge wire = 20-25 amps
10 gauge wire = 30-40 amps
8 gauge wire = 50-60 amps.

HISSIN50's advice is well founded. Take it and save yourself some trouble. The wire will catch fire before the circuit breaker trips.

HISSIN50 · Feb 23, 2008

85_SS_302_Coupe said:
Maybe wire it up with the controller on the low side and run a toggle to the interior for switching it on high manually for times when maybe you're racing or stuck in traffic on a super hot day.

I like the idea but one issue I imagine: Most fans dont like having low and high speeds engaged at the same time. One way to avoid this with the above scenario is to use 3 relays; a control relay and then a power relay for each speed. This way if the fan is on naturally (low speed, via the controller) and you flip your switch for high speed, you'll shut down low speed as high comes on.

Another aside: IIRC, Mark VIII's had a 75 amp Bosch relay from the factory. That's a cheap way to pick one up (if finding one at the J/Y).

monte87 · Feb 23, 2008

what are the odds of a short occuring for no reason though?
But is somethign to think about-I cant lie.

jrichker · Feb 23, 2008

monte87 said:
what are the odds of a short occuring for no reason though?
But is somethign to think about-I cant lie.

Inside every automotive motor are carbon brushes that ride on a copper commutator. They supply the power for the armature's magnetic field.

Over time, the brushes in the motor wear. Since most of these installations have used parts in them, there is no telling what condition the brushes are without disassembling the motor.

When the bushes finally wear out, the wire that supplies power to the brushes can short out against the commutator. Poof!!! Instant electrical short circuit and fire.

88-378 · Feb 23, 2008

Jmunk said:
I read about SPAL, being a good company. They are on eBay for $69 I think.

I have the SPAL unit along with their fan. The whole kit was less than $300

And SPAL is one of the best out there.

Low86GT · Mar 8, 2008

If you are still looking for the dccontroller try this link.

http://www.dccontrol.com/catalog2008.htm

I got one of the new FK50p units from him about a month ago.

04sleeper · Mar 8, 2008

I have an FK35 sitting in a box in my garage. Not sure what I am going to do with it because my Cobra has the fans controlled through the tuner.

Spanky Malone · Mar 12, 2008

I have one of the SPAL controllers also... sure it's almost half the cost of the DCC unit, ($65 vs. $130), but unfortunately it's not able to pulse-width the high-amperage required of the Mark VIII and Tarus 3.8L fans @ startup. Lots of wires and a complicated relay setup are needed to achieve the same results.....

I prefer the simple connectivity and performance of the DC Control unit I used on another project. HTH!

KDK1988GT · Aug 4, 2011

looking to get a DCC controler, I see the website is down, any special way to access it?

Looking for one to control my Mark VIII fan.... really causing cahos with the car at idle....

Welcome to Delta Current Control

2000xp8 · Aug 4, 2011

bynummustang said:
Just run a toggle switch to the fan. Turn the fan on when you're stopped, going slow, or on crazy hot days.

/thread.

This has got to be in the top 10 dumbest ideas i've seen to date on stangnet.
Recipe for disaster.

Noobz347 · Aug 4, 2011

2000xp8 said:
This has got to be in the top 10 dumbest ideas i've seen to date on stangnet.
Recipe for disaster.

I dunno if it's anything near the dumbest, but I agree that a manual toggle switch for the life-line to the cooling system is a VERY bad idea.

KDK1988GT · Aug 4, 2011

2000xp8 said:
This has got to be in the top 10 dumbest ideas i've seen to date on stangnet.
Recipe for disaster.

lol

wythors · Aug 4, 2011

Way to resurrect a three year old thread.

KDK1988GT · Aug 4, 2011

wythors said:
Way to resurrect a three year old thread.

BYRDPE · Aug 4, 2011

wythors said:
Way to resurrect a three year old thread.

well...at least he used the "search" function as he surely would have been told to "search" had he started a new thread on the subject.

LarsD · Aug 4, 2011

2000xp8 said:
This has got to be in the top 10 dumbest ideas i've seen to date on stangnet.
Recipe for disaster.

I did it once. Then again it was for just a couple of days till I could locate a proper controller.

The guy that wired up the efan on my wife's 67 at least wired it so it would come on when in the "run" position.

90mustangGT · Aug 4, 2011

Does the DCC controller cure cancer?

No offence, I'm sure it works well, but some people rave about the DCC controller as though they it's just so amazing. It's a fan switch. Run a switch to a relay, and run a three position switch to two relays for the two speed fans. Or run a temp switch to a three position switch with the high side on the other side of the switch when you want manual, and keep it on low. Hissin50 has a good idea also.

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