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Alternator - Internal vs external regulator

  • Thread starter Thread starter u0061914
  • Start date Start date Mar 1, 2010
U

u0061914

New Member
Aug 20, 2009
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0
Prior Lake, MN
Mar 1, 2010
#1
  • Mar 1, 2010
  • #1
Ok, I need a little assistance. I'm doing a v8 conversion on my 67. I have most everything done already, but I need to replace the current alternator.
The odd thing is that no external regulator exists on this car. So, I am assuming that it is an internally regulated alternator? All of the wiring diagrams I have found show an external regulator. Everything was bone stock as far as I can tell, before I started. I find no evidence of any wiring modifications.

Did some 67s come with an internally regulated alternator?

I'm trying to figure out which one to buy.

Thanks
 

Bitter

New Member
Feb 21, 2010
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Mar 1, 2010
#2
  • Mar 1, 2010
  • #2
To my knowledge, alternators with internal regulators weren't available back then. If yours has one, it is not original which is hardly surprising for a 43 year old car.
 

JonK

Member
Jun 6, 2007
276
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16
Nashville (Smyrna), TN
Mar 1, 2010
#3
  • Mar 1, 2010
  • #3
Look on the front radiator apron drivers side next to the radiator, the VR is easy to overlook as it's tucked in that corner just to make sure you don't have one. I don't think IR came out until ~'80.
Jon
 
U

u0061914

New Member
Aug 20, 2009
54
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0
Prior Lake, MN
Mar 1, 2010
#4
  • Mar 1, 2010
  • #4
Hmmm, I'm going to have to look again when I get home. Maybe I did miss it? In which case I'm going to feel like a bit of an idiot.
 
U

u0061914

New Member
Aug 20, 2009
54
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0
Prior Lake, MN
Mar 1, 2010
#5
  • Mar 1, 2010
  • #5
Yep, confirmed. I really feel like an idiot now. It was right where it was supposed to be.
 

JonK

Member
Jun 6, 2007
276
0
16
Nashville (Smyrna), TN
Mar 2, 2010
#6
  • Mar 2, 2010
  • #6
It's not easy to find since it's about as far from the alt. as you can get, seems like it should be on the pass. side in the same spot.

I stayed with the stock VR and upgraded to a mid '70's 100A alt. to handle driving lights, stereo, amp, AC, etc. I didn't want to have to worry about pulling too many amps. I'm also installing relays to take the load off of the headlight switch for the headlights & driving lights and give me better lighting than the stock 'yellow' headlights. The 100A is a little larger than the stock one but fits with all the same bolts/brackets. Some of the 1 wire don't charge until the engine gets rev'd past ~1500-2K rpm and just looks out of place to me, so you have many choices if you want to convert/upgrade.
Jon
 
L

Lefty3382

New Member
Mar 2, 2010
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Mar 2, 2010
#7
  • Mar 2, 2010
  • #7
There are arguments for and against either choice. Some people like to stick with the stock external because they are trying to keep their car stock, or because the regulator is often the part that stops working, so if its external then you can just replace the regulator, which is cheap. But if its internal then you have to replace the whole alternator...not so cheap.

Some people, like myself, prefer the internally regulated one wire units because it eliminates an accessory in the engine bay, allows you to go from 3 wires to 1, and is generally simpler and cleaner. I like that I was able to remove the regulator and the wires that run between it and the alternator, and have just the single wire going to my solenoid. For those electrical system novices, like me, it is one step towards simplifying the system.

I should mention that there are internally regulated alternators where the regulator is actually inside the alternator, and where a mini regulator is simply bolted to the back of the alternator. I have had bad experiences with the latter, so if you go that way make sure the regulator is actually "internal".

Powermaster and Tuff Stuff I have had great success with. And get at least a 100 amp. Its much easier than you think to overdraw a 60 amp alt. My car has died on the side of the highway more than once from doing just that.
 
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