Engine Need help with cold start

Hello. My name is Jay. I'm new here to the forum. What I actually have is a 93 5.0ho 5 speed with A9L computer, and I put it into a 1968 f100 Ford ranger. I used a Ron Francis conversion harness and an EZ wire harness to integrate everything as seamlessly as possible. I have a 3g alternator, serpentine belt drive, air-conditioning, cruise control, electric windows, locks, and remote start. I made it as modern as I could while still looking factory. My problem is that it still starts like the old 2bbl carb with manual choke that it used to have. It has no hesitation once it's warmed up and running, but where as I should be able to just push the button and it whirl over and start it does not. It takes several times of cranking, hitting, and then it starts and sputters for a bit. My tps is set to .97 volts, timing is 14 degrees btdc, idle is about 750, I'm not sure the size of the throttle body but the air intake tube is 3 inches. It currently has an open air filter with a homemade box around it. I do want to come up with a better system for that. It has 22lb explorer injectors, but it also doesn't get the gas mileage that it got before the injection swap either. With the old 2 bbl I got 20 mpg at 55mph, now I get about 12, I did the swap for better mileage and better reliability. This is my daily. Does anyone have any suggestions? If you need more info just let me know. I tried to think of everything. Thank you.
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Need to know what mass air meter is on it as the stock one will not like those 22 lb/hr injectors. Stock was 19 lb/hr. It could have a calibrated MAF but d far as I know they were mostly for 24 lb/hr injectors.

Take a picture of the MAF then get a picture of the data tag on the MAF element and post them. Will look like this:

Hey. I've been sick for a couple of days. It's at my dad's house right now. He took some pics the other day for me. I don't know if they will help or not.


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The second picture is the MAF. Need a better picture of the white label (less glare) and then peel the white label back and get a picture of the Ford part number. All I can read is F1......-AA. Need the rest of it to see what sensor is in the housing. On another note the injector tops are orange which is indicative of 19 lb/hr injectors so if the MAF is for 19 lb/hr then all of that is good.
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Ok. Well I know that it is not inside a 55mm housing. So I guess my first question is what should I do? Stick with what I have and get the right size housing? Or should I upgrade the MAF and the injectors for the bigger housing? What would help me achieve my goal of running better, starting easier, and the best possible gas mileage?
If the motor is stock then just get the right size MAF and stick with the 19 lb/hr stock injectors. I’m not saying this will fix it but you need to have it mechanically correct first. Once you have that squared up then we can go down the road of troubleshooting the electronics.
It is stock, but I was thinking about an rv cam, aluminum heads, and a cobra tubular intake in the near future. I haven't fully decided yet. It's my daily driver so I want the best mix I can get of gas mileage and power. I'm very open to suggestions though as this is my first time modding an engine. I'm a diesel mechanic by trade, and I can build a stock engine, but as far as modifying one to do what I want I'm just learning.
RV cam? Really? You got air shocks and slapper bars on that car? :jester:
Seriously though, some of members here will chime in with some cam experience that ain't from 1975, technology has moved way past that.
I would leave the stock cam in it and add some 1.7 roller rocker arms on it.
I’ve got a 70 F100 that is slowly (and when I say slowly I mean like I haven’t touched it in a couple years slowly) getting built. Mine will be a street truck as it’s lowered about six in the front and 8 in the rear with a four link and Crown Vic front suspension. The frame is C notched which is what caught my attention when you mentioned it so I am assuming yours is a street truck as well?
I was joking about the air shocks and the slapper bars, cam selection should consider rear end ratio, trans type, vehicle weight and intended use.
Back in the day the RV cam was a basic 'go too' mostly because they made good low end torque but didn't rev high rpms. And they were inexpensive, Technology has come a long way.
@AeroCoupe: I don't know as you would necessarily call it a street truck. The purpose is to be my everyday driver. It has a way to go on bodywork but it has all the modern comforts you can get in one and still look nearly stock. A/C, cruise, push to start PKE system with remote start, 5 speed manual, automatic headlights, etc. A full blown restomod. It has 4 wheel power disc brakes. Lowered 5 in the rear 4 in the front. I would like to do a crown Vic swap, but I haven't had the resources, so it is drop beams and hangers, dual front shocks, and front and rear sway bars. It does handle the road really well for what it is. Hardly any body roll at all. The fuel injection conversion, and wiring was all done last year. I'm still trying to get it all fine tuned in.

@General karthief: I knew you were teasing. As stated above it has a 5 speed manual from 94 half ton Ford. I'm still running the original 9inch. I'm not sure on the exact ratio, but I feel like I could use a little taller gearing. I'm running 275/50 r15 to get the stance I want, but I'm turning around 2500 at 65. I think it would help if I could the rpm down just a little more, but that is something to look at once I get the motor running the way it needs to be.
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