ALTERNATOR PROBLEMS PLEASE HELP!!!

I'd replace the connectors and inspect the wiring further upstream before installing the new alt. Was the old alternator bench tested?

Good luck.

Is this the stock 2g or is it a 3g swap alternator? Sounds to me like what happens to folks who install a 3g without 4 gauge power/ground, or reattach the factory power cables and perhaps the fuse blew, putting all the juice in the factory power cable = fire.

The stock 65 amp alternators used a push on quick connect plug for the main power connection. The plug was notorious for overheating and catching fire. Every replacement alternator was supposed to come with a new plug. You cut the old plug off, soldered the new plug on and used heat to shrink the supplied heat shrink tubing. A lot of people would replace the alternator and leave the old worn out plug still on the wiring harness. The plug didn’t make good electrical contact and that made more heat. More heat made more resistance and with enough heat up/cool down cycles, the plugs would burn up, often damaging the wiring harness.

The fix for the stock alternator is to replace the damaged plug, soldering the connections and using the heat shrink tubing to cover the splices.

A better solution is a 3G upgrade. The 3G alternator is a 130 amp unit that is typically found on 94-95 Mustangs and some other Ford family cars. See http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=627646 for all the answers to the 3G alternator upgrade