What size alternator are most people running on the cars ? Are you going with the one wire or the stock wiring ? I have an old one on the car and it is something like 37-40 amps. I was going to go with a 90 Amp Chrome. Any suggestions ?
thanks
Im using a 138 amp 1-wire alt. Didnt realize it was that big until I got it home...
I used to have a great article that gave rough estimates for power draws for diffrent components you may have. It broke them up into continuous and momentary loads. Continuous loads were things like headlights and your sterio system. Momentary loads were turn signals, brake lights, wipers, and that kind of thing.
Basicly it had you add up all the loads (i think it was only continuous here) and that would give you a minimum alt size. But then it went on to say that you want to get the biggest alternator you can afford thats bigger than this minimum size because alternators cycle on and off as power is required...the bigger one you get the less time it runs and the longer it lasts.
The article also said that chrome plating and other coatings inhibit the alternator's ability to dissipate heat (and heat kills electronics) so if you want a pretty alternator go with polished aluminum.
I have MSD 6AL, MSD Coil, NOS, No big Stero Equip., Tribar Headlights, NOS Bottle Warmer, Electric Fan and the rest is regular stuff. On the one wire how is that hooked up to the car and what is deleted off ? What Brand and where or who has the best price /
(similar concerns here, getting a bigger alt...) Are you running these alts on stock wiring or does all that need to be upgraded some how? Don't want to burn out my wiring...
(similar concerns here, getting a bigger alt...) Are you running these alts on stock wiring or does all that need to be upgraded some how? Don't want to burn out my wiring...
Im using a painless wiring harness. If you went with a 1 wire Alt. You would illiminate the voltage regulator because 1 wires are internally regulated.
A 1 wire alternator only requires 1 wire to be routed to the positive post of your battery, the higher the output and longer the length needed the thicker wire you will need to use. You shouldnt burn out you old harness as it wont be using any of your old harness's wiring until after the battery.
Id probably worry about burning up the harness if it wasnt a 1 wire though.
"Basicly it had you add up all the loads (i think it was only continuous here) and that would give you a minimum alt size. But then it went on to say that you want to get the biggest alternator you can afford thats bigger than this minimum size because alternators cycle on and off as power is required...the bigger one you get the less time it runs and the longer it lasts."
hmmmm..... I disagree:
1. adding up all the loads:
- go through a modern car fuse box, add'm up and get oh 200-300 amps
- there are VERY few continuous loads.
- stereo, turn lights, AC, wipers, ... either cycle or adjust, etc.
Suggested min/max/average load calculation method.
1. assume a 25 to 50% derating on all load fuses or load MAX i quotes
2. create scenarios e.g.
- MAX: at night, in the summer, in the rain, stereo blaring.....
- MIN: spring, quite, riding on a country road
- AVE: what, when, and how you drive
now you have something to actually start thinking about in terms of what is the minimum acceptable battery and alternator I need.
3. If you want actual measurements it's easy enough for common loads
The more concerning disagreement is considering that a higher current sourcing device will not wear as fast as one closer to actual need. If a battery spent it's stored charge THEN pulled on the alternator for a re-charge, I'd agree but that's not how it works. The alternator, battery and loads are all in parallel. At no time should you be pulling signifcant amps from the alternator into the battery for charge in a safe and normal running system. The critical element here is to maximize the voltage felt by the battery to cause a flow into the battery as early in a discharge condition as possible (don't use small wires from bat to alt!).
So, in my opinion, you can take several design tracks that vary cost and performance but all must consider the likely or average load in conditions of concern, i.e the foggy, raining, hot night...etc. If one is simply willing to turn off the PA system they have for a stereo 100 amps or less in an alternator should be plenty. Today's cars are far more power hungry and accessory rich so if a 65 mustang with an electric fan and a stereo needs 130 amp then a new mustang must have a 200+ amp alternator...and that's just not the case.
I run a 95 amp alternator out of a late model GM. It's a one wire. The hardest part was putting the diode in the circuit that goes to the voltmeter in the dash. Without it the car kept running with the key off.