Aluminum block ground to chasis question

[Mikie]

Ok guys,

I moved my battery to the trunk about two months ago. It worked fine cranking the car with no issues. This having 2 gauge power wire ran from a distribution block up front at the engine back to the trunk. I grounded also with 2 gauge, but to a well prepped area on the body in the trunk. Like I said, all was fine....until


I had my forged aluminum engine installed and it still cranks, but the first sign was my gauges sweeping in a diagnostic sort of mode at cranking.
Next was the fact that the car would struggle slightly to crank. Particularly worse on cold mornings.

I was wondering if the factory thin ground strap need to be upgraded from the motor mount to the chasis?
My main question I guess, is the Aluminum block a good conductor for ground?
If not then where does the factory ground strap these engines?

Im just ignorant when it comes to the ground and conductivity issues on cars.

Please offer up some advice on what you think would fix this.

 

[MP John]

Adding ground

After relocating the battery to the rear you need to add a ground from the engine to the frame. You can go from one of the stud bolts on the motor mount to the side rail. Also check to make sure the wires connecting to the starter are tight and that the starter bolts are tight.

 

[squeak93]

You need to add another ground or two. Can never have too many good grounds in my opinion. A lot of guys will say to run one from the battery to the block, but I personally got away with adding one from the lower intake, the head and the block to the firewall/frame in the engine bay. I didn't have enough wire to run all the way back.

That should take car of ur issue pending ur grounds all have good contacts.