Ok guys,
I moved my battery to the trunk about two months ago. It worked fine cranking the car with no issues. This having 2 gauge power wire ran from a distribution block up front at the engine back to the trunk. I grounded also with 2 gauge, but to a well prepped area on the body in the trunk. Like I said, all was fine....until
I had my forged aluminum engine installed and it still cranks, but the first sign was my gauges sweeping in a diagnostic sort of mode at cranking.
Next was the fact that the car would struggle slightly to crank. Particularly worse on cold mornings.
I was wondering if the factory thin ground strap need to be upgraded from the motor mount to the chasis?
My main question I guess, is the Aluminum block a good conductor for ground?
If not then where does the factory ground strap these engines?
Im just ignorant when it comes to the ground and conductivity issues on cars.
Please offer up some advice on what you think would fix this.
I moved my battery to the trunk about two months ago. It worked fine cranking the car with no issues. This having 2 gauge power wire ran from a distribution block up front at the engine back to the trunk. I grounded also with 2 gauge, but to a well prepped area on the body in the trunk. Like I said, all was fine....until
I had my forged aluminum engine installed and it still cranks, but the first sign was my gauges sweeping in a diagnostic sort of mode at cranking.
Next was the fact that the car would struggle slightly to crank. Particularly worse on cold mornings.
I was wondering if the factory thin ground strap need to be upgraded from the motor mount to the chasis?
My main question I guess, is the Aluminum block a good conductor for ground?
If not then where does the factory ground strap these engines?
Im just ignorant when it comes to the ground and conductivity issues on cars.
Please offer up some advice on what you think would fix this.