Help with a 95 5L crank no start

TheBubbaJoe

New Member
Nov 4, 2025
2
0
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kansas
I have a 1995 GT 5.0L mustang that i’ve been chasing a issue. it went away after i changed the ignition module. it’s now come back and bit me in the butt. I started the car and drove to get gas. when I tried to start the car again the car would crank but not start. if i kept at it it would start idle rough for a second and die. I tried putting a new ignition module in again since this issue is similar to the last time but that didn’t work.
i ended up having it towed to a shop.

this i what the tech notes said:
technition notes. Engine cranks perfectly fine and starts. Drove the vehicle into the shop and let it run while we checked fluid levels and basic inspection. Shut the engine off and restarted. Engine ran for a second and died. Engine cranks, restarts and dies and check engine light is on now. Installed a fuel gauge to check fuel pressure. Found fuel pressure is 38 KOER. Fuel pressure specification is 35-45. The engine will only stay running if the RPM is held up. The vehicle runs perfect until you shut the engine off and try to restart it. Then the engine does not want to start when it does start it won't idle it just dies. When vehicle does not start the fuel pressure is good, The ignition system is firing a good spark to the plugs and the injectors are getting signal. The vehicle appears to be dumping fuel upon cranking. The vehicle will start and run as long as you continue to open the throttle. All the sensors remain within good specifications. Will need to remove the PCM and perform pin out testing on each and every sensor input and output at the PCM.

the shop thinks the PCM is messing up and not sending the right signal for fuel but to me that doesn’t make sense. does anyone have any ideas.

the engine is stock apart from the follwing parts i’ve recently replaced.
1. MAF
2. idle control valve
3.ignition module
4.fuel filter
5 battery
6. all vacuum lines
7.all rubber coolant lines.
Any advice would be great thanks in advance
 
Okay, have they even checked the ECU for codes? Even if the check engine light (CEL) is off there can still be codes as the CEL only comes on with emissions related codes. My money is on the ECU being bad and needing to shipped off for repair but you need to direct your tech to this forum and more specifically this thread:


jrichker and others put a lot of effort into this tech thread and it has fixed hundreds of our cars. Just so you know, jrichker passed away so if you try and message him or ask him a question there will not be a response.

Biggest thing here is if they try an pull codes and do not get at least an 11 on the KOEO then the ECU is probably bad. This is due to Code 11 meaning the test passed.

This is probably the best code scanner for the garage mechanic:

 
Okay, have they even checked the ECU for codes? Even if the check engine light (CEL) is off there can still be codes as the CEL only comes on with emissions related codes. My money is on the ECU being bad and needing to shipped off for repair but you need to direct your tech to this forum and more specifically this thread:


jrichker and others put a lot of effort into this tech thread and it has fixed hundreds of our cars. Just so you know, jrichker passed away so if you try and message him or ask him a question there will not be a response.

Biggest thing here is if they try an pull codes and do not get at least an 11 on the KOEO then the ECU is probably bad. This is due to Code 11 meaning the test passed.

This is probably the best code scanner for the garage mechanic:

I have that scanner and when this problem happened before I would get the 11 code. this time around The OBD1 scanner goes through the check sequence but just displays 0000 when it’s done. The shop told me the only codes that they saw were related to fords automatic transmission which they thought was weird since it’s a manual. i’ll definitely read this thread.