?Aluminum Radiation/Grounding?

50bomber

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Apr 15, 2005

#1

• Apr 15, 2005

• #1

Hi everyone,
I have a question concerning the installation of Fluidyne. Yes, it has arrived and yes it looks like this . I think I am in love. Anyhow, I read somewhere, I think of all places on the griffin radiators website that one should ground an aluminum radiator to prevent deposits/oxidation/rust/crap from forming on it due to electrolysis between the aluminum and dissimilar iron in the block. Welll, do you need to, or is it just bunch of baloney. Isn't the block already grounded, by the strap attached to the left cylinder head? And how would you go around grounding a radiator? I mean to what, the body or the engine block??? Any replies appreciated. eh?

 

cardudeusa

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Home of the Florida Gators!

Apr 15, 2005

#2

• Apr 15, 2005

• #2

Subscribing. I think Michael Yount has one for this topic.

 

I

Insane3D

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#3

• Apr 15, 2005

• #3

Here's what Griffin says about electrolysis..

http://griffinrad.com/electrolysis.php

 

50bomber

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#4

• Apr 15, 2005

• #4

Aha! I knew that I read that somewhere.....that is the place . Anyone know where I can get a grounding strap?

 

vristang

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#5

• Apr 15, 2005

• #5

50bomber said:

Aha! I knew that I read that somewhere.....that is the place . Anyone know where I can get a grounding strap?

Click to expand...

Just want to make sure you correctly read that
" ALWAYS make sure the radiator is not used as a ground and that all components are functioning properly. "
You should not have electricity flowing through the radiator. e- = corrosion. The use of rubber isolation mounts will probably be good enough to get the job done.

 

50bomber

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#6

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• #6

Grrr....danm my dlxyseia.....I totally misinterpreted that one......So, under no circumstances should you connect the rad to the body or engine...would that be like giving the current a superhighway to oxidize the rad....hmmmmmm, however if you detect any current at the rad and can't find the source, how would one get rid of it???? better insulators??

 

HISSIN50

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#7

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• #7

ground straps are a great idea - electrolysis does happen. if bad enough, a DMM will show you. there is no real reason not to, so why not.

my two cents.

 

vristang

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#8

• Apr 15, 2005

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HISSIN50 said:

ground straps are a great idea - electrolysis does happen. if bad enough, a DMM will show you. there is no real reason not to, so why not.

my two cents.

Click to expand...

Using a ground strap will encourage e- flow. You would be much better off using rubber insulators and calling it good. Just make sure the rad. is not contacting the body, an you shouln't have to do any crazy testing of the coolant.

 

I

Insane3D

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#9

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vristang said:

Using a ground strap will encourage e- flow. You would be much better off using rubber insulators and calling it good. Just make sure the rad. is not contacting the body, an you shouln't have to do any crazy testing of the coolant.

Click to expand...

Hmmm...but wouldn't one of those aftermarket aluminum/stainless steel radiator brackets make it be grounded to the body? I know the stock ones use rubber insulators, but those aftermarket ones don't. I wonder if you could either lay some electrical tape down where it touches the radiator, or possibly even use some sort of rubberized undercoating on the underside of the bracket?

 

HISSIN50

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#10

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• #10

there can also be issues if one has an electrical fan mounted to a radiator, even if the rad is suspended from rubber.

 

vristang

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#11

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• #11

I switched to a 3core radiator froma 93 cobra a while back. The stock mounts did not fit properly so I had to get a little creative with a knife. In the end it worked fairly well. If nothing else you could cut up some radiator hose. I would stay away from vac lines for temp resitance reasons. Basically use anything rubber. Even wood would be better that metal to metal.
Your right the e- fans shoud be mounted carefully.