Aluminum Steering Rack Bushing Question

DTNODYA said:

I have that stupid clunk/pop sound when I turn at low speeds. I have done some searching and still can't find exactly what I need to know. My question is ; should I buy offset MM bushings or center bushings? My car is a 98' GT and is lowered. (Tokiko 5 way adjustable shocks, Eibach springs) I just need to know whether I should buy the offset or centers.

Also, anyone that installed them for the turning noise issue ... how do you like them? (Aluminum or urethane)

Thanks in advance.

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Urethane won't provide a very noticable difference over stock. I have the Aluminum bushings from MM and they are fine- don't create noise or anything. If you have the stock K-Member use the center holed bushings. The offset ones are known to turn.

You will need alignment afterwards because the toe is changed (steering rack position moved backward). They eliminate some of the play in the steering wheel and make the steering more predictable especially at cornering limits.

I have some noise (creaking) possibly from the CC plate bearings or something, and it didn't go away, so I'm not sure what kind of noise you have or where it is coming from.

Wade

I put in mine for "steering noise" caused by sh**ty steeda offset bushings (worthless). Great cheap mod for steering feel. If you're having clunking/poping sounds it isn't likely the steering rack though... Odd's are it's your tie rod ends, or ball joints.

BennyDaBall said:

I put in mine for "steering noise" caused by sh**ty steeda offset bushings (worthless). Great cheap mod for steering feel. If you're having clunking/poping sounds it isn't likely the steering rack though... Odd's are it's your tie rod ends, or ball joints.

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The clunking popping sound is your rack brackets that hold it into the k member. change these and tighten the rack bolts to hell

the new rack brackets combined with the offset urethane bushings completely eliminated my clunk noise when turning the steering wheel.

1fast03pony said:

The clunking popping sound is your rack brackets that hold it into the k member. change these and tighten the rack bolts to hell

the new rack brackets combined with the offset urethane bushings completely eliminated my clunk noise when turning the steering wheel.

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wtf are "rack brackets"?? You mean the bolt guide sleeves? This shifting around doesn't cause a sound as if the bolts are properly torqued they don't move (no room too). IMO urethane rack bushings are nearly as compliant as the stock rubber bushings, and not that much of an improvement (not to mention that offset rack bushings are useless in a mostly-stock suspension setup, and nearly impossible to install level...and then if you can get them level you do so by ROTATING them in the housing...which means they will rotate once attached to the car! crapola). Solid mounting the rack didn't increase my road feel/noise at all - aluminum, :Teh-Win:

i have mm poly rack bushings and clunk is gone after install i was also told that with the solid busings they transfer harmonics from road.

DTNODYA:

I agree with 1LowGT: you will get more road noise from the solid/aluminum bushings (I have them). It is not terrible but it adds a little to the general racket. Steering feel is improved over stock. Urethane bushings (center hole) would be a big improvement over stock and quieter than the aluminum bushings.

As a first step, I suggest that you look at your tie-rod ends (they will clunk if worn) and make sure that the strut retaining nut is snugged down tightly (creaks during turning, if not torqued down).

Chris

DTNODYA:

The tie-rod end nut need to be tightened to 35 to 47 lb-in (this is only 3 to 4 lb-ft!). Since your tie-rod ends are new, it is possible that the rack is worn. But do some checking to narrow down the possibilities first.

With the front wheels off the ground, turn the wheels all the way to one side. Grab the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and see if you can reproduce the noise. Then try the same thing at 12 and 6 o'clock. Do this with the wheels full left, straight, and then full left.

Then run a search in the Autocross/Suspension Forum and you will find the various methods for testing for loose/worn ball joints, loose/worn tie-rod ends, loose/worn wheel bearings, loose/worn control arm bushings, etc. along with how to fix each one.

HTH,

Chris

wms004 said:

Urethane won't provide a very noticable difference over stock. I have the Aluminum bushings from MM and they are fine- don't create noise or anything. If you have the stock K-Member use the center holed bushings. The offset ones are known to turn.

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that is what is recommended by MM

nyuk98gt said:

Then run a search in the Autocross/Suspension Forum and.......

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we don't have one, i already requested one before and no go

Well im using the offset, and I havent had a problem, and the alignment is perfect...No rotation or ****ty handling whatsoever

Change out the bushings and whatever you go with, change the brackets (sleeves) also.

poping and cracking type noises are most likely the rack bushings there is evena TSB on them

creaking when turning the wheel IS the tie rod ends.

Ford sells them and they are very cheap. Theyre straightforward to install also.

any install instructions on steering rack bushings?

Offset bushing question, how far off center are the holes in the bushings?

Read the "friendly" manual its linked in the post directly above your but I pasted it for your conv

C.MD.CI.MMST-6.pmd 1  Copyright 2005 2005.07.11
3430 Sacramento Dr., Unit D
San Luis Obispo, CA 93401
Telephone: 805/544-8748
Fax: 805/544-8645
www.maximummotorsports.com
MM K-Member Spherical Rack Bushings (MMST-6)
Read all instructions before beginning work. Following instructions
in the proper sequence will ensure the best and easiest
installation.
Thank you for purchasing the Maximum Motorsports
Spherical Rack Bushing Kit (MMST-6). The MMST-6 kit is
specifically designed for use with Maximum Motorsports
Tubular K-members (MMKM-1, 1.1, 2, 2.1) purchased after
12/1/05. If you purchased your k-member before 12/1/05,
please contact a MM sales representative to purchase the
additional spacers needed for the proper installation of
your steering rack.
Solidly mounting the steering rack with aluminum bushings
eliminates rack movement relative to the K-member.
This improves the steering response, and the car will
maintain a more precise line through a corner, requiring
fewer steering corrections.
In some instances, along with the improvement in steering
response, comes an unwanted side effect—steering
chatter at low speeds. Chatter can be caused if the steel
steering rack binds up inside of the cast aluminum steering
rack housing. This binding (meaning a resistance to
moving freely) can happen if the rack housing is twisted
when the rack is solidly attached to the K-member through
solid aluminum bushings. Twisting can occur if there are
irregularities in the steering rack housing. MM designed
these new steering rack bushings to retain the benefits of
a solidly mounted steering rack, while also preventing the
twisting that can cause chatter. The MM Engineering
Team’s new design includes spherical bushing sets to
accommodate irregularities in the steering rack housing.
This all-new steering rack bushing design allows the
steering rack to be installed in any one of five possible
vertical locations. The center position places the steering
rack in the stock location. Two different offset positions are
possible: 1/4" offset and 3/8" offset. The offset positions
can be used to either raise the steering rack, reducing the
height of bumpsteer spacers used at the steering arms; or
to lower the rack, providing clearance for oversized oil
pans. These bushings are also designed to give the proper
amount of Ackerman geometry when used with a MM Kmember.
While offset steering rack bushings are not recommended
for use on vehicles with stock k-members, they do provide
a benefit when installed with a Maximum Motorsports Kmember
because of its major changes to the suspension
geometry. Offset steering rack bushings are to be used
along with Adjustable Tie-Rod Ends (MMTR-1 to 4). By
raising the steering rack with offset steering rack bushings,
the amount of spacers used between the spherical
rod-end and the spindle steering arm is minimized.
REMEMBER: Each car’s bumpsteer must be measured
and adjusted. The MM Bumpsteer Gauge (MMT-4) includes
our copyrighted instructions for measuring and
adjusting bumpsteer.
NOTE: Steps 2 through 6 do not apply when the MMST-6
bushings are being installed as part of the initial installation
of an MM K-member that was purchased after
12/1/05. Steps 2 through 6 apply when replacing previously
installed aluminum steering rack bushings with the
new MMST-6 bushings.
1. Raise and support the vehicle safely on jack stands.
2. Disconnect the steering shaft from the input shaft of
the steering rack. The stock steering shaft, as well as
MM’s latest design shaft, has one pinch-bolt retaining
the coupler to the steering rack input shaft. The pinchbolt
must be completely removed to disconnect the
steering shaft. Most aftermarket steering shafts have
a setscrew to retain the coupler, instead of one pinch
bolt. Loosen the setscrew to disconnect the steering
shaft.
3. Loosen and remove the two nuts holding the steering
rack to the k-member.
4. Remove the two bolts holding the steering rack to the
k-member.
NOTE: On some vehicles it may be necessary to
move the swaybar in order to remove the steering rack
mounting bolts. If necessary, disconnect the swaybar
end links and rotate the bar away from the steering
rack.
2005.07.11  Copyright 2005 2 C.MD.CI.MMST-6.pmd
5. Remove and discard the old aluminum rack bushings
from the front of the rack.
6. Remove and discard any old spacers and washers
used between the k-member and the rack mounting
faces.
Offset-Hole Selection Procedure
We recommend mounting the steering rack as high as
possible, relative to the K-member. This will reduce the
height of the spacers used at the steering arm. If there is a
problem with clearing the oil pan, the steering rack may
need to be located at the stock location, or even offset
downwards.
5.0L Engines- In general, 5.0L engines equipped with a factory
oil pan have adequate clearance to offset the rack upwards,
using the 3/8" offset-holes. Some aftermarket oil
pans may not allow enough clearance. Follow the procedure
listed below to determine how high the rack can be
offset.
4.6L Modular Engines- In most cases, the oil pan of a 4.6L
Modular Engine is closer to the steering rack housing than a
5.0L Engine oil pan. We DO NOT recommend beginning
with the 3/8" offset-hole, as described below, to determine
how high the steering rack can be offset. Instead, start by
using the ¼” offset-holes in the bushings to check for clearance.
Once the steering rack is positioned using the ¼”
offset-holes, you can determine if there is enough room to
offset the steering rack upwards using the 3/8" offset holes.
We recommend at least a ¼” between the lowest part of the
oil pan and the top of the steering rack to accommodate
engine movement.
7. Install the three-hole aluminum rack bushings with the
smaller O.D. in the front mounting holes of the steering
rack. The bushings must be oriented so that all
three holes lie in a vertical line. 5.0L Engine cars:
Start by positioning the 3/8" offset-hole as the lowest
hole in the vertical orientation. This will result in the
largest upward offset of the steering rack possible.
4.6L Modular Engine cars: Start by positioning the 1/
4" offset-hole as the lowest hole in the vertical orientation.
NOTE: The 3/8" offset-hole is the hole machined
closest to the edge of the steering rack bushing.
8. Using a marker, or other marking device, make an
indicator line across the edges of the steering rack
bushings and the steering rack housing. These lines
can be used to determine if the rack bushings have
rotated out of their position during later steps.
9. Place the female half of the rear Spherical Rack
Bushings into the rear of the rack mounting holes.
The concave portion of the bushings should face
rearward in the vehicle. Orient the three holes so that
they match the orientation of the holes in the front
aluminum rack bushings.
10. Place one of the supplied 7/16" G8 washers under the
head of each rack mounting bolt.
11. Slide the two rack mounting bolts through your chosen
offset-holes of the aluminum steering rack bushings.
Slide the bolts through until each one just protrudes
through the rear face of the female Spherical Rack
Bushings.
12. Place a male Spherical Rack Bushing behind one of
the female Spherical Rack Bushings, so that the
convex face is oriented towards the front of the
vehicle. Slide the rack mounting bolt on through the
slot of the male Spherical Rack Bushing, and into the
mounting hole in the k-member. Install the other male
Spherical Rack Bushing using the same procedure.
NOTE: Orient the slot in the male Spherical Rack
Bushing vertically. When doing so, the slot will be
C.MD.CI.MMST-6.pmd 3  Copyright 2005 2005.07.11
offset towards one edge of the bushing. Make sure
that the slot is offset towards the ground if the rack is
being offset upwards. If the rack is being offset downwards,
the slot would then be positioned to be offset
upwards.
13. If using forward-offset control arms (MMFCA-4, 5, 10,
11), place one thick and one thin aluminum spacer
(supplied with the MM K-member) between the kmember
and the rear face of each Spherical Rack
Bushing set. Pull the rack mounting-bolt far enough
out of the k-member to slide the spacers onto the bolt.
Fully insert the bolt into the k-member rack mounting
holes. Make sure the bolt is passing through the
correct offset-holes in the spacers.
NOTE: The thick and the thin aluminum spacers are
supplied with the MM K-member hardware kit. If
installing the MMST-6 kit with an older MM K-member
(purchased before 12/1/05), DO NOT reuse the
aluminum spacers that originally came with the kmember.
Contact an MM sales representative for the
proper spacers.
14. If using the non-offset control arms (MMFCA-1, 2, 7,
8), no spacers will be used between the MM Kmember
and the Spherical Rack Bushing sets. The
mounting bolts should be slid right on through the kmember
rack mounting holes.
15. Press the rack rearwards until the rear rack bushings
are fully resting against the spacers, or the k-member.
Check to see if there is any interference between the
rack housing and the oil pan. If the rack housing is
touching the oil pan, repeat Steps 7-14 using the next
smallest offset in the rack bushings. Repeat until the
steering rack has the proper clearance to the oil pan.
NOTE: On some 5.0L applications, the hard line that
enters the center of the rack housing may interfere
with the oil pan. If this occurs, refer to the MM Kmember
instructions for information about how to bend
the line for more clearance. MM instructions are
available on our website, maximummotorsports.com
16. Once it has been determined that the rack clears the
oil pan, reconnect the steering shaft to the input shaft
of the steering rack. It may be necessary to pull the
rack slightly forward to slip the steering shaft over the
rack input shaft.
17. Install the nuts on the rack mounting bolts and snug
them up equally on each bolt. NOTE: It is very important
to make sure that all of the rack bushings and
spacers are in alignment as the steering rack mounting
bolts are tightened. Use the marks made in Step
8 as a guide.
NOTE: As the rack bolts are tightened, it may be
necessary to use a large set of pliers to rotate the
rack bushings into proper alignment. With a little
experimentation, just the right amount of snugness on
the rack bolt tightening can be found to keep the
steering rack bushings from rotating too freely, yet
allowing them to be repositioned by rotating them with
a set of pliers. The slot in the male Spherical Rack
Bushings, as well as the three holes in each spacer
and steering rack bushing, should be in a vertical line.
If everything is not properly aligned, not only is it
possible to induce binding of the steering rack, the
rack bushings may be damaged, and the rack may
2005.07.11  Copyright 2005 4 C.MD.CI.MMST-6.pmd
not be centered in the chassis. An un-centered
steering rack will cause the car to have an asymmetrical
turning radius in each direction, as well as asymmetrical
bumpsteer.
18. When all of the bushings are properly aligned, torque
the steering rack mounting bolts to 55 ft-lbs.
19. If using the stock steering shaft, torque the factory
pinch bolt to 25 ft-lbs. If using an aftermarket steering
shaft, refer to the manufacturers instructions for the
correct torque specifications.
20. If the swaybar end links were detached in Step 4,
reconnect them at this time.
21. Safely lower the vehicle to the ground.
NOTE: It will be necessary to measure and adjust the
bumpsteer of the vehicle if the vertical position of the
steering rack was changed. If the fore-aft location of
the rack was changed, the toe setting must be
adjusted.
This kit includes:
2 Multiple Offset Rack Bushing
2 Male Spherical Washer
2 Female Spherical Washer
2 7/16” G8 washer