Engine Another bad distributor?

txstang84 said:

You said you checked continuity on the STI and the ohms were high. Was that with the computer connected or disconnected? IF it's high with the computer connected, you're trying to shoot continuity through the ECU...if it's high with the computer disconnected, and the wire isn't shorted to anything already, you have a high resistance short. If it's disco'd, it should be open/infinite resistance

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I tested with the computer connected. I didn’t know I was supposed to disconnect

These are my findings so far been at it all day.

A.) MSD or Crane ignition box if so equipped





Not equipped








B.) PIP sensor in distributor. The PIP sensor supplies the timing pulse to trigger the TFI and injectors. A failing PIP sensor will sometimes let the engine start if the SPOUT is removed. See paragraph 5A - a noid light will tell if the pip is working by flashing when the engine is cranking.





Does not start with the spout removed








C.) TFI module: use a test light to check the TFI module. Place one lead of the test light on the red/green wire on the ignition coil connector and the other lead on the dark green/yellow wire on the ignition coil connector. If the TFI is working properly, the test light will flash when the engine is cranked using the ignition switch.





Tested both sides of the green/yellow and it has power when cranked. Do I need to test all wires and do I just look for power or 12v?





D.) Coil


New coil and has power to the red wire








E.) No ECC or computer power - ECC or computer relay failure


86-93 models only: ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires


94-95 models only: EEC or PCM power relay in the constant control relay module. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.


I have 12 volts at fuel injector red wires





F.) No ECC or computer power - fuse or fuse link failure


86-93 models only: Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires. All the fuse links live in a bundle up near the starter solenoid.


94-95 models only: 20 amp EEC fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.








G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire. No 12 volts, blown fuse link or faulty ignition switch. Remove the plastic from around the ignition switch and look for 12 volts on the red/green wire with the switch in the Run position. No 12 volts and the ignition switch is faulty. If 12 volts is present in the Run position at the ignition switch but not at the coil, then the fuse or fuse link is blown.


Note: fuses or fuse links blow for a reason. Don’t replace either a fuse or fuse link with one with a larger rating than stock. Doing so invites an electrical fire.


Ignition fuse links may be replaced with an inline fuse holder and 5 amp fuse for troubleshooting purposes.


94-95 models only: Check inside fuse panel for fuse #18 blown – 20 amp fuse





I have 12 volts on the wire going on but didn’t pull it to see if I have 12 volts on the actual switch coming out. Idk if this could be a possibility?





H.) Missing or loose computer power ground. The computer has its own dedicated power ground that comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to it's proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid fumes from the battery. It is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/lt green wire. You'll find it up next to the starter solenoid where the wire goes into the wiring harness





Computer was grounded correctly when I removed it.








I.) Computer.





Swapped the computer to my race car and it turned on so I’m assuming the computer is good. The weird thing is when I put it back in my daily it ran for a while then tried to time it died with out the spout after about 30 seconds. Then didn’t have spark after I let the battery charge.








J.) Bad or missing secondary power ground. It is located between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.





I have the secondary ground connected








K.) Engine fires briefly, but dies immediately when the key is released to the Run position. Crank the engine & when it fires off, pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Hold the switch in the crank position: if it continues to run there is a problem with either the ignition switch or TFI module. Check for 12 volts at the red/green wire on the coil with the switch in the Run position. Good 12 volts, then replace the TFI. No 12 volts, replace the ignition switch.





Can’t get car to run.

On the way to get a new distributor. I might have an electrical problem somewhere if I’m only getting spark sometimes?