Probably the main reason is Dynojets reproduce consistent numbers. Mustang dynos have too many variables and if they aren't entered correctly the numbers are worthless. You can make a car produce any hp # you want on a Mustang dyno.
So true. On a local Mustang dyno, my '95 put down 309 rwhp. But it trapped 102-103 at the track, and so something was obviously not right. Took it to a Dynojet and it was 276 rwhp. Eventually got it figured out and made a "legitimate" 310 rwhp on the Dynojet, but the money I spent on that Mustang Dyno session was a total waste. Everything about it was off -- the torque curve looked nothing like a typical H/C/I 5.0L, it was wild. Undoubtedly a mistake in the operation of the dyno, but I'll never know for sure...
Hmmm, interesting statement. There has been many claims that a Dynojet produces higher numbers. This may be true providing 100% accurate variables are being plugged into the Mustang dyno software. After looking at many local dyno sheets compared from Mustang dyno to Dynojet I have not seen any results in which the Dynojet # was higher. They were either close to equal or the Mustang dyno showed much higher numbers.
Jon are you suggesting a shop would alter the numbers input into a dyno to get higher readings for their customers?
It's a good thing both our shops customers all dyno on the same dyno so we can compare apples to apples.
Paul ( krazy Koncepts Paul ) and I were just discussing getting a stock car with repeatable HP numbers and taking a day to hit all the local chassis dynos and see what the numbers say. We would of course not be taking the car ourself for obvious reasons. Call it a secret shopper if you will. It would be interesting to see how all the Dynos read.
Sounds like a good idea, and we would also know a good correction factor between the local Mustang dynos and the dynojets. Only deal would be that the weather conditions would have to be similar.
It would be best to do it all in the same day so the weather is not a huge factor and use an eec 5 car so you could monitor air inlet temp and coolant temp to try to get things as even as possible. Also it would need to be a stick to take out the converter and driver style and be low enough horsepower and torque that it would not spin the tires. This can be a problem with 2 roller dynos especially on a wet day. Naturaly aspirated would be nice too so we could check air fuel ratios on different dynos.
You would have to contact them for individual rates. Also, you can do a search for local dynos if you want to try other ones. Most have about the same price. The cheapest dyno I have found, Dynojet and they know how to run it is at Meridian up by Bellingham. Its 50 for 3 pulls with AF