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Another starting prob. Battery good, tapped starter-no go. Starter switch buzzing????

  • Thread starter Thread starter gruvee87vertgt
  • Start date Start date Dec 27, 2005

gruvee87vertgt

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 7, 2003
272
26
28
Chicago, Il
Dec 27, 2005
#1
  • Dec 27, 2005
  • #1
Well, I have replaced the starter switch (four pronged thing with wires next to battery) and it still buzzies.

what next? I think I will change the starter cause I have a extra one. What else do I check or change? thanx
 
C

Camman

Founding Member
Jan 5, 2000
1,055
0
37
Las Vegas, NV
Dec 27, 2005
#2
  • Dec 27, 2005
  • #2
2 things 2 check. Obviously you solenoid(thats the "starter switch") is getting power and that is why it is buzzing. Check 2 make sure all of your engine grounds are working in proper fassion. You should have one from bellhousing 2 firewall, back of head to firewall, battery ground to swaybarmount. I think those are the stock locations. Also check the lone wire from the solenoid to the battery. It is on the post all by itself. Ohm it, or look at it really well and make sure none of the insulator is missing, and make sure you have good connections without corrosion on both ends. If all is stock odds are you need to replace your starter wire/starter anyway. Let me know if none of this makes sense Good luck
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Dec 27, 2005
#3
  • Dec 27, 2005
  • #3
Um, how do you know the battery is good? A jumper battery can help with diagnostics.

Did you jump the lugs on the solenoid to see if it would start? Attempting to start a car in this condition can take out a brand new solenoid.

Good luck.
 

Busted07

I need my gorilla to be about an inch longer.
Nov 15, 2005
0
3
0
Dec 27, 2005
#4
  • Dec 27, 2005
  • #4
What that guy said ^^^ most of the time when you hear a buzzing (clicking) sound, the battery is dead, or the ground/power wire or battery terminals are corroded and needs cleaned to make good contact. Id check the volatge of your current battery, then all the wires goin to the soleonoid. the fronts of the connectors looked fine on mine, it was only when i took them off that i realized that the backsides were corroded, and it just wasnt making good contact
 

bill302

Active Member
Nov 2, 2005
2,131
1
46
alabama,gadsden
Dec 27, 2005
#5
  • Dec 27, 2005
  • #5
Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_not...AGID=1&SID=103 for help
FPRIVATE "TYPE=PICT;ALT="

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars .OR see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars. See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Dec 27, 2005
#6
  • Dec 27, 2005
  • #6
Bill, we should note that Jrichker is the author of this.

bill302 said:
Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_not...AGID=1&SID=103 for help
FPRIVATE "TYPE=PICT;ALT="

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars .OR see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars. See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.
Click to expand...
 
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