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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Any advice before hitting the Dyno?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Clark
  • Start date Start date Sep 28, 2005
C

Clark

Founding Member
Aug 5, 1999
659
0
0
Rowlett,Texas
Sep 28, 2005
#1
  • Sep 28, 2005
  • #1
Hello to All,
Finally getting around to putting the 393W on the dyno and this is one of those $25 for three pulls and no tuning and I thought it would be good to find out where I sit on horsepower. But after talking with the guy running the shop he told me that I could be pulled after the first run if it is to lean or rich and obvious things like leaks. This made me wonder if there is anything you guys would recommend to help this go smooth, Thanks.
 
G

gzminiz

New Member
Oct 15, 2004
200
0
0
Phoenix, AZ
Sep 28, 2005
#2
  • Sep 28, 2005
  • #2
How much extra is the tunning? Might be worth it, first off, you get it tuned properly, second you are guaranteed all three pulls as they should be fixing if it is lean or rich.
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Sep 28, 2005
#3
  • Sep 28, 2005
  • #3
tighten all your hoses,check for vac. leaks,fule,coolant leaks.Ive seen a few cars blow radiator hoses off on the dyno.
 

thehueypilot

Active Member
Feb 25, 2004
1,084
0
37
Medina,Tennessee
Sep 28, 2005
#4
  • Sep 28, 2005
  • #4
I have had my car on the chassis dyno twice so far. (roller drum and direct drive) The $25 for three pulls does not include hooking anything up. (To get an accurate A/F reading you will need a bung welded into your exhaust system before hand.) The first pull gets your rpm matched to the computer and the second pull confirms the rpm is correct and the last pull will be your print out to show your buddies. If your car is not dialed in and has any problems you will be dissappointed. If you want them to tune your car for max performance, well......that will cost you extra. A tuning session will run about $100 per hour (avg.) and you will have to provide the labor and tools. The last pull will let you know if your cooling system is good. Good Luck!
 
C

Clark

Founding Member
Aug 5, 1999
659
0
0
Rowlett,Texas
Sep 30, 2005
#5
  • Sep 30, 2005
  • #5
Thanks Huey, for the advice and for helping me with my memory loss

From what you said should I just not go for these pulls unless I have it dialed in first?
 
F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
4,818
1
69
BC Canada
Sep 30, 2005
#6
  • Sep 30, 2005
  • #6
Last time I went to a dyno day they just put a probe in the tailpipe to measure AF ratio. Well.. on the cars without catalytic converters at least.

If you use a heated O2 sensor, you can measure AF ratio at any part of the exhaust system so long as it's not after a catalytic converter.
 
1

10secgoal

Active Member
Dec 1, 2003
2,801
3
49
San Diego
Sep 30, 2005
#7
  • Sep 30, 2005
  • #7
Advice for hitting the dyno

Do not go with a stock drive shaft.
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Sep 30, 2005
#8
  • Sep 30, 2005
  • #8
10secgoal said:
Do not go with a stock drive shaft.
Click to expand...
why?
 

Dark Knight

Founding Member
Feb 1, 2000
2,578
0
0
Chandler, Az.
Sep 30, 2005
#9
  • Sep 30, 2005
  • #9
why not just pay for 2 sets of pulls? do the 1st set to get a baseline, then tweak the car some and go again later

I've made a few pulls on my vert and never had a prob
 

thehueypilot

Active Member
Feb 25, 2004
1,084
0
37
Medina,Tennessee
Sep 30, 2005
#10
  • Sep 30, 2005
  • #10
It's a nerve racking experience to stand beside your car when it is making a 6k pull.
 
1

10secgoal

Active Member
Dec 1, 2003
2,801
3
49
San Diego
Oct 2, 2005
#11
  • Oct 2, 2005
  • #11
iskwezm said:
why?
Click to expand...

It's only good for about 473 ft/lbs to the ground. Then it gets angry.
 
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