Any issues with arp head Studs?

Grn92LX

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I'm just wondering if its a PITA to remove and replace the head with head studs? I have a few lower arp head bolts seeping coolant and I believe its just comming from the lower bolts that go into coolant. I was thinking of just upgrading to studs and pulling the heads and doing new gaskets. I figure with the studs I can seal the lower holes with silicone so it will seal better.

It's also a good time to get a competition valve job. Might make this my "winter project".

 

notchback

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from what i hear, they're the best

 

RacEoHolic330

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I love mine... get the job done well. no problems at all

 

04sleeper

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Sounds good to me. I prefer studs over bolts. I always feel that I get more even torque readings torquing a nut down instead of torquing a bolt down.

 

Grn92LX

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I'm just wondering if its a pain in the balls to remove and install the heads with studs.

 

slow5poh

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#6

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seems like it would be easier to me. But ive never done it so i am talkin out of my azz.

 

04sleeper

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#7

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Grn92LX said:

I'm just wondering if its a pain in the balls to remove and install the heads with studs.

Click to expand...

No. Not really mike.

 

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89white50

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I think he means with the motor in the car, is there enough room to easily pull the heads off? I would think so since the bottom studs are far shorter, than the tops. I plan on getting these when i get to that part of my build. So, i guess in all i would like to know as well.

 

retro50

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#9

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You can remove the heads pretty easy with studs. They just slide up and over the studs. This is if you have the 8.2" deck block. I have built many 5.0L
Engine's and pretty much they all leaked or weaped around the lower studs. I've tried everything to seal them up over the years. Like liquid teflon sealant yes A.R.P. Stuff too,Indian head,Avaiation cement, R.T.V. even pipe thread tape. Never really had any great success. I've never had this problem using factory headbolts though. The last resort i've used is some of that radiator sealer. It seems to work pretty good. I don't use the whole can though. Just a little bit. It came in a liquid form. I've done this to the last two I built and it seemed to stop the leaks They are both going two years later and they seem to be fine.

 

04sleeper

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Except I never had that trouble with leakage.

 

Grn92LX

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89white50 said:

I think he means with the motor in the car, is there enough room to easily pull the heads off?

Click to expand...

Thats exactly what I was asking! I wasn't sure if it would be a PITA to pull the driver side ehad w/o it hitting the brake booster or something.

 

RacEoHolic330

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#12

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Nope. It's not a problem removing the heads at all. It's even easier when putting the heads on because you don't have to hold the head and gasket in place while trying to screw the first few bolts in. studs are the way to go man.

 

Grn92LX

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#13

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RacEoHolic330 said:

Nope. It's not a problem removing the heads at all. It's even easier when putting the heads on because you don't have to hold the head and gasket in place while trying to screw the first few bolts in. studs are the way to go man.

Click to expand...

You never have to hold the gasket in place. The dowel pins do that.

If I do this, I will buy the studs.

What is the arp part # and do I need the adapter 1/2" bushings? I never used them on any head swap i've done.

 

RacEoHolic330

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im pretty sure the part number for the kit i got was ARP-154-4001 at summit. and no, you don't need the bushings.

 

bubba-dough

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#15

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I got my ARP head studs from Summit. I just called them and told them what I had and they did the rest. I could be wrong but for some reason I think there are a few heads that require different studs because he ask what brand head I was using. Anyway, studs are the way to go and there are no issues removing or installing heads with the motor in the car.

Good luck.

 

mgerman93

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#16

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Mike, I know what you're getting at. It's not as big a deal now because the arp studs are broached. Mark

 

Grn92LX

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#17

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Thanks guys. If I do end up pulling the heads this winter, I will do the arp studs!

Hopefully funds allow and I will ship my heads to Ed Curtis for some stuff. I sent him an Email asking where my money is best spent on these heads and what area's they need help in. I'm thinking a good valve job, bowl work or some short turn work. Lets see what Ed says..