Drivetrain 8.8 Pinion and 302 rear main seal leaks after replacing. 93 5.0 with t-5

93 5.0 with 8.8 rear and t-5. Hey guys I have a few questions. Just replaced my pilot bearing, rear main, flywheel pressure plate and clutch, throw out bearing and clutch fork and pivot stud, trans output seal, new rubber motor mounts, prothane trans and crossmember mounts, new u joints, pinion seal, throw out bearing retainer steel upgrade, then rear disc conversion. Mainly did all this because my pinion seal was leaking worse than ever and I have a vibration between 70-80 I’ve been chasing for years so I took the chance to do all of this at once and have only driven a few miles to do hard stops to bed in new brake pads.
-Parked back in the garage and the rear main is leaking worse than before and the pinion is leaking from what looks like the threads. A little drop leaking from tail shaft but hoping it is just the trans fluid I greased the yoke with. I was hoping all this stuff would get rid of the vibration and help prevent more leaks if they were cause by the vibration.
-Also had a new vibration as I accelerate in each gear that wasn’t there before but it smooths out, I didn’t get rpm’s over 3000 tho as to be easy on the new clutch. I’m just paranoid the vibration is from the pinion preload being wrong or something in the clutch I did wrong. Or do you think this vibration could just be from the poly trans mounts?
-Also do you think the pinion is just weeping through the threads( I did coat the nut in differential rtv) I reused the crush sleeve and nut. If so what can/ should I do.
-Also what should I look out for to be sure my pinion preload is good?
-and from the looks of it do you think this is the new main seal or my oil pan gasket possibly? The pan did look like it was leaking but didn’t want to mess with replacing it.
-could both my leaks be from bad ventilation? Did the Pcv valve and filter a couple years ago and cleaned the axle vent up and the cap moved up and down freely but not sure if that means it’s working good.

Thanks guys Ik it’s a lot of questions but I’ve never did most of these repairs before and now im paranoid lol. Also don’t want my new clutch getting ruined by oil.

Sidenote about vibration ( over the years I’ve done wheel bearings, inner and outer tie rods, new shocks and lowered 1 inch with ford springs, ball joints seem fine and control arm( front and back) bushings are a little cracked but not bad. Done alignment and multiple tire balances to try to pin down the vibration. Has been there since before I bought it from my brother in law 15 years ago)

Also not sure if the original vibration over 70 is still there or not will update once I get a chance to test

I’ll post does the pictures of each area before replacement and then a picture of the new leaks. Thanks again!
 
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I’ll post pics in separate posts to make it easier. Here are before for the rear main
 

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Old pinion seal. Note that the diff side isn’t as wet and kinda looks like it wasn’t leaking from the seal in the first place. Front of the flange to the driveshaft has fluid in the ridge and is more wet than the back
 

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I Used permatech thread sealer , but if you do it again and it looks like the rear seal then you might need a sleeve.
 
Fellas I might have a huge revelation for everyone dealing with a mystery vibration, make sure your rims are ACTUALLY centered. Stock rims are lug centric so the bulge on the acorn lug not centered the rim as it tightens. So hold it in place and hand tighten the lugs while keeping the rim centered with the hub then tighten correctly in stages in a star pattern. I haven’t found any hub centric rings that would fit the stock rims but maybe we can get them custom made but just doing this helped tremendously with my 60-70 mph vibration. Hope this helps!
 
Fellas I might have a huge revelation for everyone dealing with a mystery vibration, make sure your rims are ACTUALLY centered. Stock rims are lug centric so the bulge on the acorn lug nut centers the rim as it tightens. So hold it in place and hand tighten the lugs while keeping the rim centered with the hub then tighten correctly in stages in a star pattern. I haven’t found any hub centric rings that would fit the stock rims but maybe we can get them custom made but just doing this helped tremendously with my 60-70 mph vibration. Hope this helps! Also make sure your lugs are correct. If they dig into the rim they are too short