Anybody hear of this, for engine bay smoothing?

NewToFord · Dec 6, 2008

I want to smooth out my engine bay and came across this

Aluminum Engine Bay Panels, Rear Seat Deletes, Door Panels, and more for your Mustang

ryan218 · Dec 6, 2008

yeah. a local guy has them in his vert,

stykthyn · Dec 6, 2008

those are just going to trap moisture and promote rust. unless you fill in all the holes in your bay, and if you have already done that what is the point of buying the panels?

NewToFord · Dec 6, 2008

ryan218 said:
yeah. a local guy has them in his vert,

how did they come out?

ryan218 · Dec 6, 2008

his were all welded in i belive. idk really. they guy who owns the car is a tool bag.

MAC'n89Blckstng · Dec 7, 2008

How are they welded in if they are aluminum?

ryan218 · Dec 7, 2008

MAC'n89Blckstng said:
How are they welded in if they are aluminum?

next time he is around ill snap a pic. a shop did all the work. its a full alum front end.

Cobra912 · Dec 7, 2008

I think the panels are awesome. I didn't have a chance to clean up my engine bay other than paint it before i dropped in my 331 and now that it's all set-up I'm not willing to pull it back out. I think these painted would look quite nice. Not to worried about moisture, car doesn't see rain........

Mr. Rustypwnz · Dec 7, 2008

if you por 15 the bitches and the frame rails, you dont have to worry about moisture, I think they look cool, im thinking bout doing it now....

riceslayer302 · Dec 7, 2008

i smoothed my bay and bent framerail covers in 8 hours at my friends shop. ide recomend filling the holes so it doesnt fill up with water

SVT32VDOHC · Dec 7, 2008

A lot of guys on my local forum bend metal and weld it in like that. It is a lot faster to do that then fill every single little whole and then bondo and sand it all smooth. These will weld in fast and be flat. Then you just prime and paint them.

NewToFord · Dec 7, 2008

I talked to the guy. You can get stell or aluminum panels. The steel is cheaper

Beasty306GT · Dec 7, 2008

those would look good i think

riceslayer302 · Dec 7, 2008

this is how we did mine

NewToFord · Dec 8, 2008

here is one issue I have with these. On the passenger side, the two large holes in the inner fender. These panels will block them off. However, aren't those two holes where you run the air inlet for a blower. I am planning a blower for this car. Is there another way to run blower piping? I talked to the guy and he told me I could cut through these panels, but I do not want to cut them once they are painted. I would mock everything else up, but I do not have the motor or blower yet. I wanted to get the underhood all welded up and then start putting the motor and stuff in. Any ideas about the blower?

Aluminum Engine Bay Panels, Rear Seat Deletes, Door Panels, and more for your Mustang

Boostedpimp · Dec 9, 2008

You can always move the piping to the blower around to get it to where you want it I would think.. so I would prob look at a few blower cars at the track in person or find a friend or local guy with one (ask on here) and take some measure ments etc then cut your hole, have the panels welded in/painted and install your blower and go at it... that would be what I would do especially if I know what blower im going with i'd find someone that has the same blower in person and check it out. Just my .02

ID89GT · Dec 10, 2008

I would probably rather have the kind riceslayer has instead of the kind that cover the whole side up. His looks more natural when its all done and you don't have to worry about anything down the road like you will with your blower piping

riceslayer302 · Dec 10, 2008

does anybody have a pic of these things finished on the car???

here's how mine came out after a runny paint job

MAC'n89Blckstng · Dec 10, 2008

If I were to do a bay again I would get pre made panels and weld them in for sure. I have about 110 hours into my engine bay doing it the ol fashion way and got to this point. I also have probably about another 40 hours of priming sanding and painting left to go. If I were to have the panels made and done it that way it probably would have been cut in half.

riceslayer302 · Dec 10, 2008

holy smokes! 110 hours to do the whole thing or just the welding, grinding, and bondo? my friend and i did all the fabbing and welding in about 8-10 hours. god knows how much time it took me to learn how to bondo and smooth it all down right. but i still dont know if it was anywhere near 100 hours.

granted i only did the strut towers foward while you did everything behind the towers and the rad support but wow thats alot of time. looks awesome though.

Anybody hear of this, for engine bay smoothing?

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