anyone change a throwout bearing retainer...come on in

mcvey90

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Jan 24, 2002
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I am fairly sure this is a simple install, but I broke the old weak pot metal throwout bearing retainer the other day.

I see theres just the four bolts holding it on, when I take them off, do I have to worry about anything internal shifting or moving around, or is it just a simple pull off put new one type of install like I think it is.

The new one is the steel version so hopefully this don't happen again.

thanks for any help
 
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Have the tranny sitting with the input shaft facing up. When you pull the retainer, make sure the input shaft does not come out as well, otherwise you will have about a dozen roller bearings somewhere in your tranny. :notnice:
But as long as the input stays seated to the main shaft, all is well. They can shift all they want, which won't be very much, and the new retainer will push everything back into place.
Sound good?
 
i have been curious about this too. i thought i remembered something about needing to use shims on the new one??????????? any thoughts?
 
measuring endplay

just want to have someone clarify what checking endplay means.

I was just going to measure the length the mainshaft sticks out beyond the retainer and make sure it was the same on the new install.

thanks for the help

oh and is the black rtv good enough sealer for the retainer or should I use something else.
 
Endplay is how far the main shaft can move into and out of the tranny. It is about .002". So not very much. Most people use a dial indicator to check this.
Or you can shim the retain so it has a bit of drag to it. As in, the input shaft does not want to spin freely, but will still turn with some resistance. It should not be too hard to turn.
Hope this helps.
The main thing is you don't want the input shaft to be able to wiggle.
 
You can try Hanlon or D&D for the shims, you will most likely need to adjust the shims, on every one I have done it was different...

The key is "0" preload, this is for the endplay (in and out)
 
Hey, please let me know how the shimming thing went McVey, I have the retainer, but was unable to get some shims in time, so I buttoned everything up with the stock one in place. Dunno when Im gonna drop the tranny again tho
 
this weekend

pm me this weekend so I don't forget to let ya know how it went.

I wont have the retainer til thursday at the earliest. LRS said they are on backorder, so it was 8 days out.

anyway, I probably won't get to it til monday or tuesday of next week. have to measure for shims, than wait on those too, but I will post how it went.
 
doesn't seem right at all

well I and the buddies on do this stuff with, really don't think I got the right one.

I got the one that LRS sells. summit has one, too. It doesn't have any years for application just that its for a t5.

We measured the new one compared to the old one and found that it was 75 thousandths, deeper so I needed shims.

But upon further investigation its also longer if you measure the lip the other way. By about 75 thousandths, so does that mean I don't need shims or what.

I will try to clarify, by deeper I mean we measured it the way you would measure for the shims. By longer I mean the lip is longer and would stick farther into the transmission.

Also, the collar that goes into the bellhousing is way longer like 3 inches or so. I didn't measure it, but the stock one barely protrudes past the main body of the piece.

I am really confused, we can't hardly believe this is even for a 94 mustang.

Somebody clear this stuff up for me.

how does this stuff actually work.

1. why is the collar so much longer that goes in the bellhousing.
2. I understand the shim measuring and all that, but why is the lip longer that goes into the tranny itself.

HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
 
Pictures to help explain. please help

this first one shows how much farther into the bellhousing the new one will go.

It also shows, that the new one will go into the tranny further.
Not a good pic I know, but trust me it measures longer by a bit.

the third one, shows how the depth is different. which I understand is why you would need shims. but for example let's say the new one calls for two shims cuz its deeper, but at the same time its two shims worth longer.
Man I am confused.

one other quick question, on the side that goes into the bellhousing. see how the plate has like a nipple that covers the shaft a lot further. will the throwout bearing hit that before the clutch is fully engaged, will it slide over it somehow.

this is getting to be quite an ordeal.

help me out if you can please.
 

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