its not a nightmare. I did it on my car. As a matter of fact, you'll have to do it w/ alot of the aftermarket high torque starters. just take the small wire that is going to the solenoid that closes the coil and run it straight to the new starter. Run a direct 02 ga. or 04 ga. direct from the batt and it works. I used a bulkhead mount insulated stud ($20.00jegs/summit) to get the power from the batt to the starter and still allow a "mounting point" for the rest of the cables that are bolted on the old solenoid
I removed mine. But I added a 150 amp fuse block between the battery cable and the rest of the wiring. I also had to add a small relay to trigger the solenoid on the starter because the pink/green wire didnt carry enough current to engage the starter. I will get pics of my setup here soon for you.
Eliminating the starter relay would be a big mess on a 5.0 Stang. You would need a mini starter, and even then the starter segment of the ignition switch is not designed to carry the high current that the piggy back solenoid on the mini starter draws.
The best you could do would be to use the mini starter and a separate high current push button or relay. You would still need to have a junction point for all the things that pick up battery power. That means the big ugly cluster of wires would still be present somewhere in the car.
The best you could do would be to use the mini starter and a separate high current push button or relay. You would still need to have a junction point for all the things that pick up battery power. That means the big ugly cluster of wires would still be present somewhere in the car.
I have a similar setup like madmike's. My relay is under the dash, and I have a power/ground strip in the fender that is connected directly to the battery. As jrichker mentioned, this can only be done with a mini starter, and it's not a good idea to eliminate the solenoid without replacing it with a relay. I also used a 30A relay.
Good plan, but explaining it over the Internet may be difficult. Probably the best approach is to get a 94-95 Mustang wiring diagram and use it to give you some guidance.
One thing is for sure: you need a junction point where battery, starter, alternator and power feed for the fuse panel inside the car all connect together. The fuse for the 3G alternator would attach to that junction point.
If you use a fuse box to replace all the fusible links, you will need to peel back a fair amount of the wiring harness to remove the fusible links and replace them with regular automotive wire. Since Skycraft is handy, you might consider using circuit breakers instead of fuses. The aircraft style circuit breakers come with either a 7/16" nut or two 6-32 screws to mount them into a panel. This is dependent on being able to find a suitable weather tight box that can take the under hood heat. You could mount the relay for the mini starter in the fuse or circuit breaker box. Heat and moisture protection are going to make this a bit more difficult to do than wiring stuff inside the passenger compartment.
It would still work, but if the fuse ever blew or the circuit breaker ever tripped, you probably would have to peel back the wiring harness and remove the link. It would probably blow at the same time or get seriously over stressed to the point of failing at the most inconvenient time possible.