Are Good Street Manners and Performance Compatible?

[thefordkid1]

Several years ago, you heard of more people using that cam but these days, it doesn't come up in discussions much any more

The thing is so pricey ......... I mean ...........
For just a bit more, you can go the custom route

I've always heard good things about that cam

Grady

And in addition to being pricey it also seems that the user is not getting anymore duration over the stocker with 1.7s.
Crower lists the stocker as having 211 degrees at .050. If you add 1.7s to the stocker, wouldn't it get you at least another degree at .050? Maybe 212 or even more?
Which is what the 15510 is listed at ([email protected] with 1.6s).
So the only thing you get with the Crower is the extra lift (and area under the curve). Most purchasers probably want this and additional duration to extend the power band higher.
Also I have seen the stock GT cam listed as anywhere from 204 to 219 at
.050. They say the cams vary in some cases (year to year).
Does this mean that in some cases the Crower may also have less duration than certain stock GT cams?
My thinking is that this cam is good for power adders since it retains stock driveability and lifts the valve up higher to take advantage of forced induction applications (particularly turbos).
Comments?

 

[urban96]

if your not wanting crazy amounts of power just bolt on an s/c kit

stock driveability untill you get on it

 

[Al J]

Al, I have been wanting to see someone use the 15510 cam in a SN car - maybe it's been done but I don't recall seeing it before. It's an excellent mild cam and with the intake change I think you'll be happy. Please come back to this thread and let us know your impressions..........

At long last, the mods have been made.
We're running the "Baby Crower" cam, port matched & bowl blended GT-40Y heads, a BBK 70mm TB. 1.6 RRockers, Tom's ported GT-40 intake, equal length headers, Bassani X-pipe w/cats, Borla cat-backs & an Aluminum driveshaft..
This is on a very heavy 'vert that always has a trunk full of Golf clubs.
I've only had it a few days & have yet to fully "air it out" but it's a decided improvement & has excellent street manners. The idle had to come up a tad to avert stalling, but it idles good w/just a little roll to the cam. No chip was necessary.
I've noticed it's running better each day--I don't know if thats because the computer is learning, or the new stuff is breaking in.
It's sure flowing more air---the Borlas are loud now!
It pulls good 2500-5000K and then seems to flatten out.
My goal was to freshen up the top end on a 115K mile street car & keep it mild-mannered but faster, and I think I'm there---now I have to test it against my son's WRX.
.

 

[tmoss]

I've noticed it's running better each day--I don't know if thats because the computer is learning, or the new stuff is breaking in.

This is a comment I get often. I feel it is the EEC learning the new fuel requirments. There are short term fuel trim corrections (not kept in KAM) and long term fuel trim corrections (written to KAM), so it seems to take some time to get all "dialed in". Thanks for the feedback. It took my idle about 2 weks to get dialed in from the rolling idle thing after the h/i change.

 

[Black Stampede]

Yeah, I definitely agree with those who say performance can still be completely streetable. If done right, there's no reason you can't have a comfortable street car that runs 11s. Its just that many people on the forum take away those comforts because they aren't an integral part of what they feel a performance car needs. Shoot, I would say virtually every power adder car I've been in behaved great if you didnt get on it and I think most of them still had AC. All based on how you do it and it looks like you have a great start.

Also, if you are unsure about your cam choice why not go with the Trick Flow Stage 1 cam? Mild, very cheap, and proven. Something to look into.