crazypete said:I have a groundpounder and its one of the thinner "flimsier" k-members with a-arms. My street is awful. HUGE WIDE potholes, ridges, bumps and this is in a "nice" suburban neighborhood outside boston. They really let maintenence go. With "C" springs, you're bascially thrown around the road as you hear wham wham wham. But the GP with coilovers has held up just fine. No cracks or anything like that. Helps if you lighten the front as much as you can when putting in the k-mem. Reduces load on the lighter tubular unit.
Go for it.
Oh...the lesser tubey k-mems are loud. The poly bushings scrawk, the coilovers creak and clunk. The front will be solid but it will sound very loose.
Thanks for the input, I guess I will put my tubular k-member on hold for now.crazypete said:Well, if you grease the poly bushings, theoretically they dont scrawk.
The higher end coilovers have the threads built into the strut rather than having a clunking sleeve that slides over the strut.
You get what you pay for but if you are willing to accept a little noise then you can get a tubular k-memeber, tubular a-arms and coilovers with your choice of rates for like $600 or so from musclemotors and mm's ebay auctions. I'm running their front end right now.
Like I said, I would not run this on the street unless you have lightened the nose a bit before....at least a battery relocation to the trunk. The k-mem looks strong enough but I would feel uneasy bouncing a full wieght GT around on top of it. AC delete and maybe some aluminum heads then you are gold.
crazypete said:The higher end coilovers have the threads built into the strut rather than having a clunking sleeve that slides over the strut.
crazypete said:Also....any k-member will not be a perfect fit. A little grinding will be necessary. I had to eye out 2 boltholes for the upper body to k-mem master bolts and I needed to cut away a piece of the DS engine support so it didnt bash the pan in since the back of the support was touching the pan and the motor wouldnt sit down.
jerryD said:My AJE went in smooth. no grinding or prying or anything. I can only remember bending the brake lines a little to clear the coil over springs. that would have been the only "modifying" i had to do. the only thing i think that sucks with this is that I didn't get the a-arms tight enough the first time, so I have to jack up the motor, move the rack away just to tighten the front bolts for the a-arms.
for driving, I don't notice a single difference with it compare to the stocker. major plus is how much MORE room there is to do stuff when working under the car.
Daggar said:I don't wish to hijack this thread but I am interested in finding out what those K-members are that DO NOT change the wheel geometry. Every k-member I've seen so far does something with the front wheels. Some are a 1/2in. setback while others are more. What are those tubular k-members that keep the wheels in the stock location?
millhouse said:The AJE k-members wont, unless you ask them to.
Daggar said:I assume you mean that they won't set the wheels forward? You got a link for these guys?
Daggar said::OT: How's your turbo project coming?
Daggar said:I don't wish to hijack this thread but I am interested in finding out what those K-members are that DO NOT change the wheel geometry. Every k-member I've seen so far does something with the front wheels. Some are a 1/2in. setback while others are more. What are those tubular k-members that keep the wheels in the stock location?
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