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Bad Maf?

  • Thread starter Thread starter green94droptop
  • Start date Start date Apr 9, 2005

green94droptop

Founding Member
Jul 8, 2001
1,136
0
0
Orlando, FL
Apr 9, 2005
#1
  • Apr 9, 2005
  • #1
Need some expert advice here guys...

Been having some bad problems lately. Distrubutor went out. So I decided to replace all parts, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, ignition control module (TFI module), coil. So basically all electrical parts are brand new excluding the MAF and o2 sensors (o2's are like 5,000 miles old).

It has a noticable miss down low (stumble maybe) and it's definity down on power. I ran a cylinder balance test and it said that #7 injector was weak. Two weeks ago I ran a comp test and got perfect numbers across the board, so that's out of the question.

So, today I swapped the #7 injector with the #1 injector and the problem mysteriously went away. But it still drove like crap.

After about an hour of speculating with my buddy, we looked into my MAF, which is a 75mm Pro-M Bullet cal'd for my 24lb injectors. So, I took the sensor out and cleaned it (noticably dirty), put it back in and it still drove like crap. So we thought to unplug it and see if it died. Suprisingly, it ran the EXACT same way. No notcable chance in RPM and it obviously didn't die on us. Drove it around and no different than how it drove then when it was plugged in.

So, my question is, if the MAF (and everything else along with it) was good, when I unplugged the sensor, shouldn't it have died or struggled to idle until the computer adjusted it?

If it should have died or stuggled to idle, is my MAF screwed up?

What else should I try guys? I've got no codes; all the electrical parts are brand new. Do o2's usually go bad w/out throwing a CEL?

Thanks guys!
 

DFG 5OH

Active Member
Aug 28, 2004
1,341
0
36
Louisville, KY
Apr 9, 2005
#2
  • Apr 9, 2005
  • #2
seems like you car should've died...throw on another maf and check it, you might have to get another one.
 

TrueBlue95GT

Member
Sep 29, 2003
966
0
16
Connecticut
Apr 9, 2005
#3
  • Apr 9, 2005
  • #3
If you unplug the MAF, the computer will go to limp mode and just go off of a set table of values. The major sensors being bad will make this happen. So if your computer was already running on limp mode, there would be no noticable difference in driveability if you unplugged the MAF. But I would try and find somebody that has a MAF calibrated for 24lbers and swap test it. I would check your TPS, timing, and see if any wires are arcing.
 
K

kj2833

New Member
Apr 4, 2005
75
0
0
central illinois
Apr 9, 2005
#4
  • Apr 9, 2005
  • #4
green94droptop said:
It has a noticable miss down low (stumble maybe) and it's definity down on power. I ran a cylinder balance test and it said that #7 injector was weak . Two weeks ago I ran a comp test and got perfect numbers across the board, so that's out of the question.

So, today I swapped the #7 injector with the #1 injector and the problem mysteriously went away. But it still drove like crap.


Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

Cylinder Balance Test (Gas EEC IV only): tests cylinder power contribution on SEFI engines by controlling each injector . Codes received from the ECA are interpreted by the tester and cylinder balance test results are displayed.

Injector(s) bad? would explain why one cylinder is not putting out, even though compression checks out ok.
 

green94droptop

Founding Member
Jul 8, 2001
1,136
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0
Orlando, FL
Apr 9, 2005
#5
  • Apr 9, 2005
  • #5
TrueBlue95GT said:
If you unplug the MAF, the computer will go to limp mode and just go off of a set table of values. The major sensors being bad will make this happen. So if your computer was already running on limp mode, there would be no noticable difference in driveability if you unplugged the MAF. But I would try and find somebody that has a MAF calibrated for 24lbers and swap test it. I would check your TPS, timing, and see if any wires are arcing.
Click to expand...


It feels/sounds like the car has been in limp mode for a couple days now. I guess that's why it didn't die when I unplugged the MAF.

My goal for tomorrow is to try to find a buddy with a MAF that I could swap test it with.

Thanks.
 

green94droptop

Founding Member
Jul 8, 2001
1,136
0
0
Orlando, FL
Apr 9, 2005
#6
  • Apr 9, 2005
  • #6
kj2833 said:
Cylinder Balance Test (Gas EEC IV only): tests cylinder power contribution on SEFI engines by controlling each injector . Codes received from the ECA are interpreted by the tester and cylinder balance test results are displayed.

Injector(s) bad? would explain why one cylinder is not putting out, even though compression checks out ok.[/Qoute]

I actually ran two test the other day when I did it. On the 2nd test, it passed. So like I said, today I swapped two injectors and it passed on the first test today.

I think the injectors are alright.

My next issue is tackling the MAF issue.

Anyone know why the www.pro-flow.com website is not working? Have they changed the address/name?
Click to expand...
 

green94droptop

Founding Member
Jul 8, 2001
1,136
0
0
Orlando, FL
Apr 9, 2005
#7
  • Apr 9, 2005
  • #7
Thanks, for the help guys.

Keep the comments coming!
 

TrueBlue95GT

Member
Sep 29, 2003
966
0
16
Connecticut
Apr 10, 2005
#8
  • Apr 10, 2005
  • #8
I heard that Pro-M went out of business.
 

green94droptop

Founding Member
Jul 8, 2001
1,136
0
0
Orlando, FL
Apr 10, 2005
#9
  • Apr 10, 2005
  • #9
TrueBlue95GT said:
I heard that Pro-M went out of business.
Click to expand...

Man, I hope not. Their website ain't working.
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
6,817
12
79
DFW Texas
Apr 10, 2005
#10
  • Apr 10, 2005
  • #10
TrueBlue95GT said:
I heard that Pro-M went out of business.
Click to expand...

Well not really!

They are in a transition or a restructure kind of a thing.

All will be OK in a few weeks.

Later
Grady
 

green94droptop

Founding Member
Jul 8, 2001
1,136
0
0
Orlando, FL
Apr 10, 2005
#11
  • Apr 10, 2005
  • #11
MAF is reading .003v at idle. No fluctuation when I move the pedal.

If PRO-M is out of business, what do I do for a new MAF?
 

WhiteDevil

New Member
Feb 4, 2003
2,717
0
0
San Diego
Apr 10, 2005
#12
  • Apr 10, 2005
  • #12
Thats not good, according to my tweecer my MAF reads like .95XX something when at idle, and that goes up as you revv the mottor because more air is entering.
 

dstanggt50

Founding Member
Sep 13, 2000
1,316
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0
Woodinville, WA
Apr 10, 2005
#13
  • Apr 10, 2005
  • #13
when I was having maf issues and had a pro-m, they told me acceptable is anywhere from .6-.8 depending @ idle( I was at .4), so yeah, I would agree sounds like you got a bad maf. I've read that there is a different company that is being opened up soon that can recalibrate the pro-m stuff, forgot the name though, should be run by the same employees from what I've read. Or you could get a C&L, but not many people are fans of those meters, but I've had mine w/no problems.
 

AznStanger3v

Active Member
Aug 11, 2003
2,026
0
47
Northern VA
Apr 10, 2005
#14
  • Apr 10, 2005
  • #14
unplugging the maf doesnt make the car shut down
 

green94droptop

Founding Member
Jul 8, 2001
1,136
0
0
Orlando, FL
Apr 10, 2005
#15
  • Apr 10, 2005
  • #15
dstanggt50 said:
when I was having maf issues and had a pro-m, they told me acceptable is anywhere from .6-.8 depending @ idle( I was at .4), so yeah, I would agree sounds like you got a bad maf. I've read that there is a different company that is being opened up soon that can recalibrate the pro-m stuff, forgot the name though, should be run by the same employees from what I've read. Or you could get a C&L, but not many people are fans of those meters, but I've had mine w/no problems.
Click to expand...


Hopefully tomorrow I can find a new MAF at one of these local speed shops. Maybe they still have some Pro-M's in stock. We'll see.

By the way, the car doesn't even want to idle anymore when the car is cold. It misses and stumbles all over the place.
 
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