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Battery light flickering

  • Thread starter Thread starter TropicMustang
  • Start date Start date Nov 30, 2009
T

TropicMustang

Member
Jul 29, 2007
77
1
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Concord
Nov 30, 2009
#1
  • Nov 30, 2009
  • #1
My battery light tends to flicker when it is really cold outside and when I am at wot the light flickers even more. During normal driving it dosent flicker though. What is the problem?
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
Nov 30, 2009
#2
  • Nov 30, 2009
  • #2
belp slip

Nice sig. What year?

Assuming that the alternator has been tested and is good, look for evidence of belt slip (black power around the pulley). Are all of the idler pulleys in place?

Also, check fuse F1.5 (15a) in the Central junction box (CJB).

Check the small wiring connector to the alternator. Plugged in good? Clean?
 

ChillPhatCat

20+ Year Stangneter
Apr 22, 2002
409
65
48
Syracuse, NY
Nov 30, 2009
#3
  • Nov 30, 2009
  • #3
I'd say alternator is just starting to wear out... when it's really cold out, your battery tends to drain faster and probably puts a little more strain on the alternator right after you first start it up. I'd say it's unlikely to be belt slip because cold causes things to contract, not expand... so it should be tighter and be less likely to slip when you first start the car on a cold day.
 
T

TropicMustang

Member
Jul 29, 2007
77
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Nov 30, 2009
#4
  • Nov 30, 2009
  • #4
thanks It's a 2000. Im going to replace the alternator tomorrow and hopefully that fixes the problem. Im trying to get this situated because im heading out to AED out here in sacramento on s:aturday for a tune so i can get some numbers.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
4,749
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Dec 1, 2009
#5
  • Dec 1, 2009
  • #5
I agree its belt slip. Does not make sense to replace the alt first, replace the belt!
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
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Houston Texas
Dec 1, 2009
#6
  • Dec 1, 2009
  • #6
The truth of the matter is that it could be a weak alternator, weak battery, or belt slip. IMO it is more likely to be a bad alternator. Which is why the 1st suggestion was to test the alternator.

As RPM's increase, more power is needed to run the engine's electronics. If the alternator is boarder line, the extra power requirements could push it over the edge.

Reminder, the battery light is driven off of battery voltage only. Further, the PCM reduces charging current at WOT (to save load on the motor). Consider if the battery is weak or the terminals are dirty, when the alternator output is decreased by design, the extra power has to be made up by the battery. This could overwhelm the battery's ability to keep up.

That is why it is also good idea to check/clean the battery terminals at the same time. Ensure that the top of the battery is clean as well. Todays car will not run without a solid battery.

Belt slip should be evident on the belt and around the pulleys. But, IMO, what makes the most sense is to TEST the alternator first. Almost any auto parts store will test your alternator for free. Many will do a basic function test with the alternator still on the car.

While the alternator is off, INSPECT the belt looking for evidence of slipping/cracking/wear. If found, replace it. Also, inspect the tensioner. Replace it if it is weak.

To recap, the absolute 1st thing to do should be to clean the battery terminals. Clean the top of the battery. Next, take your car to the auto parts store. Ask them to test your battery and the alternator. Go from there.
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
12
79
Dunedin, FL
Dec 1, 2009
#7
  • Dec 1, 2009
  • #7
Alternator - have tested and replace if needed. The Sn-95s are known to eat alternators. (or Ford just installed crappy ones)
 

GDawg

Founding Member
Mar 22, 2002
1,469
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68
Nevada
Dec 1, 2009
#8
  • Dec 1, 2009
  • #8
twogts4us said:
Alternator - have tested and replace if needed. The Sn-95s are known to eat alternators. (or Ford just installed crappy ones)
Click to expand...

I'm into my second one after 75k miles (and eleven years) but they ARE expensive if you stick with Motorcraft. I was lucky to find a good one at the junk yard.
 
T

TropicMustang

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Jul 29, 2007
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Dec 2, 2009
#9
  • Dec 2, 2009
  • #9
swapped the alternator today and it fixed the problem.
 

Ateup

Active Member
Sep 21, 2009
748
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Dec 2, 2009
#10
  • Dec 2, 2009
  • #10
TropicMustang said:
swapped the alternator today and it fixed the problem.
Click to expand...

I bet he meant to thank all you guys for your help but forgot.
 
T

TropicMustang

Member
Jul 29, 2007
77
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8
Concord
Dec 2, 2009
#11
  • Dec 2, 2009
  • #11
Yes, im sorry. Thank you everyone for the help. I also got a fresh battery in today, to replace my crappy autolite.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Dec 3, 2009
#12
  • Dec 3, 2009
  • #12
What kind of battery did you get?
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
7
89
the people's republic of massachusetts
Dec 3, 2009
#13
  • Dec 3, 2009
  • #13
TropicMustang said:
swapped the alternator today and it fixed the problem.
Click to expand...

thanks for reporting back on what fixed it.
 
T

TropicMustang

Member
Jul 29, 2007
77
1
8
Concord
Dec 4, 2009
#14
  • Dec 4, 2009
  • #14
I work at Les Schwab so i got a Les sSchwab battery made by JC whittney. Its the top of the line version the XT. 84 month Waranty and i get a screaming deal on it so its a good deal.
 
S

soupnutz

Member
May 23, 2009
73
0
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Hampton Roads, VA
Dec 5, 2009
#15
  • Dec 5, 2009
  • #15
wmburns said:
That is why it is also good idea to check/clean the battery terminals at the same time. Ensure that the top of the battery is clean as well. Todays car will not run without a solid battery.
Click to expand...

A few years ago I started putting a thin layer of vaseline on the battery posts then after hooking up wires put another thin coat on the terminals.

After a week or two I would start to get corrosion build up. Since using the vaseline, never any corrosion whatsoever, looks brand new.
 
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