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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Battery/power light came on...

  • Thread starter Thread starter NEEDA5.0
  • Start date Start date Oct 10, 2006

NEEDA5.0

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Oct 10, 2006
#1
  • Oct 10, 2006
  • #1
The other day the red battery light came on. Everything seems ok but the voltage looks low on the cluster. Any ideas? Where do I start?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Oct 11, 2006
#2
  • Oct 11, 2006
  • #2
Have the alternator bench tested if you desire. Or have the system dynamically tested at the parts store if you've been able to drive it around.

You can also simply compare battery to alternator voltage with your meter to get an idea of what's going on.

The amp/battery light is part of the switch circuit in the regulator and for some meaningful reason, the regulator detects that something is wrong with the output and is grounding the switch wire (ergo your battery light illuminates).

Good luck.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
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Foothill Ranch, CA
Oct 11, 2006
#3
  • Oct 11, 2006
  • #3
NEEDA5.0 said:
The other day the red battery light came on. Everything seems ok but the voltage looks low on the cluster. Any ideas? Where do I start?
Click to expand...
Just happened to me on Monday. You're basically running on battery power - the alternator isn't feeding any power into the system. It could be something as easy as a loose or fried wire, or your alternator could be dead. As Hissin said, have your alternator checked. It's very likely your alternator just died.
 
I

inphiniti

Active Member
Mar 15, 2003
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Providence, RI
Oct 11, 2006
#4
  • Oct 11, 2006
  • #4
Chythar said:
Just happened to me on Monday. You're basically running on battery power - the alternator isn't feeding any power into the system. It could be something as easy as a loose or fried wire, or your alternator could be dead. As Hissin said, have your alternator checked. It's very likely your alternator just died.
Click to expand...


+1 to that... i just finished up with an alternator problem... my volt meter on the clauster was flat lining @ +18... bad regulator inside the alternator, bitch blew out my high beams ... so more then likely its probably the alternator...
 

94GTStang

Founding Member
Oct 26, 2001
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Oct 11, 2006
#5
  • Oct 11, 2006
  • #5
also replace your alt. cable and fuseible link once you get the new alt in. My car charges like it did years ago. Now i just need to get the dropping charge when my lights are on looked at.
 

NEEDA5.0

Founding Member
Jun 13, 2002
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Oct 11, 2006
#6
  • Oct 11, 2006
  • #6
It still drives...for now. But seeing how its gonna be 31 degrees tonight I'm not sure that I want to try to drive it to the parts store. How do I test the alternator myself in the car?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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Oct 11, 2006
#7
  • Oct 11, 2006
  • #7
NEEDA5.0 said:
It still drives...for now. But seeing how its gonna be 31 degrees tonight I'm not sure that I want to try to drive it to the parts store. How do I test the alternator myself in the car?
Click to expand...
Crude rule of thumb: over 12.6 volts means you're charging the battery. Less than 12.6 volts and you're discharging.

If you want more specific tests, we can post them up.

Good luck.
 

NEEDA5.0

Founding Member
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Oct 11, 2006
#8
  • Oct 11, 2006
  • #8
Well its at 12.14 so I guess its shot.

I bought a Boush remanufactured unit from Pep Boys with a lifetime warranty for $130.

Anyone have a link on the install?

Thanks guys.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Oct 11, 2006
#9
  • Oct 11, 2006
  • #9
Did you have them bench test your old alt? For instance, if you blow the alt fuse or the fusible link in the charge cable, it wont charge either.

It's a 5 minute swap. You disconnect the battery. Disco' the stator wire, regulator plug and charge cable at the back of the alt. Then there are two bolts that hold the alternator in.

Check your stock regulator wiring while you have stuff torn apart. It might be vulcanized (hard with the insulation coming off). I consider regulator plugs to be like wear-items in that I replace them at 100K or so to avoid future issues.

Of course, check your repair manual for the correct method of R/R (this was off the top of my head from the last time I swapped alts around).

Good luck.
 
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