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Battery Relocation issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter 90bluegt
  • Start date Start date Jun 26, 2006
9

90bluegt

Founding Member
Dec 9, 1999
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Jun 26, 2006
#1
  • Jun 26, 2006
  • #1
Guys -
I searched stangnet and other locations before moving my battery to the hatch. I thought I had it covered, then I turn the key an nothing. I have lights, my fuel pump goes on but not as high pitched as before. I tried jumping the car that didn't work which tells me I missed something. I read the grounding tread that Jrichker putout (very good article) btw. What I did was ran a negative cable all the way to the engine and mounted it to the motor mount. I did not mount it to the chassis since it wasn't mounted there before I figured it wouldn't matter.
Can someone answer me as to what I'm doing wrong? I used 1 gauge cable for the positive and 2 gauge for the negative. It's a taylor battery box that I used. Battery cable is mounted same locations as before except that the negative is on the motor mount rather than the A/C bracket.

Thanks in advanced...
 

89Notch

Founding Member
Oct 21, 1999
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MSU
Jun 26, 2006
#2
  • Jun 26, 2006
  • #2
You should still run a ground from the battery to the chassis in the back
 
C

criticman

Member
Sep 7, 2003
723
1
16
Rome, GA
Jun 26, 2006
#3
  • Jun 26, 2006
  • #3
Yep. Ground it to the chassis. You should be set then.
 

jrichker

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Mar 10, 2000
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Dublin GA
Jun 26, 2006
#4
  • Jun 26, 2006
  • #4
Do the ground wiring the way described in my tech note and the ground side will be good.

Here's a checklist:

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help


1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars .OR see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars. See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.
 
9

90bluegt

Founding Member
Dec 9, 1999
592
0
16
Jun 26, 2006
#5
  • Jun 26, 2006
  • #5
All --
Thanks for the replies, i grounded the cable to the quad shock mount now so that should be good, then ran a ground from the negative post to the motor. The grounds shound't be an issue. Still doesn't start so I think the problem is the starter relay because it's not clicking like the it should. So i'm going to get a new one tomorrow and put it in. Thanks again for the quick replies.
 

Ny Mustang Guy

Founding Member
Dec 10, 2001
322
0
0
Queens Nyc
Jun 27, 2006
#6
  • Jun 27, 2006
  • #6
when I did my battery relocation.. I grounded the battery to the rear bumper guard/support.. and ran the wire from the battery to opposite the starter wire on the silinoid, this is working fine for me..
 
9

90bluegt

Founding Member
Dec 9, 1999
592
0
16
Jun 28, 2006
#7
  • Jun 28, 2006
  • #7
Ok -
Car starts now with no issues for starting. Now it's not charging. I didn't touch the alt or cables for that. I also removed my A/C and running a shorter belt, problem is that it's not wrapped around the crank pulley like it used to be, just the bottom from the alt around the bottom to the PS. I think that's the issue, any one have any thoughts?

Thanks
 
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