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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Battery relocation

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guero
  • Start date Start date Mar 1, 2007
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95opal

5 Year Member
Nov 16, 2004
449
20
39
Mar 4, 2007
#41
  • Mar 4, 2007
  • #41
1/o or 1 ott is thicker than 2ga
 

trav_19

New Member
Oct 29, 2006
810
0
0
Jackson, MI
Mar 4, 2007
#42
  • Mar 4, 2007
  • #42
no i believe there is 2 guage 1 guage 0 guage 1/0 then 2/0 but i could be wrong its a big jump
 

Kornnut

Founding Member
Nov 25, 2000
1,999
48
108
Tulsa
Mar 4, 2007
#43
  • Mar 4, 2007
  • #43
I got a free box(thanks rio96gt) yesterday and will be doing this soon.
 

BlooDReigN

Member
Feb 22, 2004
283
1
16
Calgary, Alberta
Mar 4, 2007
#44
  • Mar 4, 2007
  • #44
Here's a pic of where I put it in my car





You can just crouch down to the ground and hit the switch if you know where it is.
 

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turbogt

Member
May 1, 2003
723
16
19
Montana
Mar 5, 2007
#45
  • Mar 5, 2007
  • #45
gcomfx.com said:
Welding supply....
Click to expand...

Don't use welding cable.. It is not very flexible... Car audio/amplifier wire is the best... If you are using 1/0, stinger Expert is the best there is... It can be tied in a tight knot.....very flexible and easy to route...
 

gcomfx.com

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
3,690
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56
Republic, MO
Mar 5, 2007
#46
  • Mar 5, 2007
  • #46
turbogt said:
Don't use welding cable.. It is not very flexible... Car audio/amplifier wire is the best... If you are using 1/0, stinger Expert is the best there is... It can be tied in a tight knot.....very flexible and easy to route...
Click to expand...

I have cable already... but what's the price difference for the flexible stuff?
 
T

turbogt

Member
May 1, 2003
723
16
19
Montana
Mar 5, 2007
#47
  • Mar 5, 2007
  • #47
depends on how much markup they have. Audio shops have really high markups. Retail is $6 a foot. Cost is 1.85.. Anywhere between those two.
 

go-stang5.0

New Member
Jan 27, 2003
2,244
0
0
Glenview,Il
Mar 7, 2007
#48
  • Mar 7, 2007
  • #48
you know the kill switches are rated to only so much before the blow out, so if you have a complete short after the kill switch, it should blow out before anything melts. Plus, on a bad day your starter could blow out a several hundred amp fuse just from cranking. I think thats why kill switches are required... What I'm saying is that you cant really put a fuse b/w the battery and starter.

And my kill switch its pretty ghetto riged. But it has worked fine for the last 3 yrs. I'll post pics of my setup in the next few days.
 
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