battery relocation...

I did it to my car and it's not worth it go with the fan.

You need a sealed box if it's a hatch. Out gassing when the battery is being charged could cause a serious health issue inside of the car. Additionally, if there is an accident you want all of that battery acid to stay inside of the box and not be slinging all over the inside of the car.

It's worth it.
Especially if you run drag radials and or adjustable shocks.
Foxes are way nose heavy, so evening it out helps.

Just plan on it cost more than 100 bucks, you'll need the disconnect also, and it will have to be setup to kill the car when the switch is turned.

2000xp8 said:

It's worth it.
Especially if you run drag radials and or adjustable shocks.
Foxes are way nose heavy, so putting evening it helps.

Just plan on it cost more than 100 bucks, you'll need the disconnect also, and it will have to be setup to kill the car when the switch is turned.

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Unless you are out of mods to do I dont see and real benifit other than more room up front. I have it dont but it was dont before I got the car and like stated before I would move it back it I didnt have other things mounted in its place. Also The wire alone will cost 60 bucks for the 25 feet online(if bought in a store they want 6 bucks a foot for 0gauge). Also why would you need a kill switch unless its a drag car?

You need a kill switch because if you want to run it at the track ever, you have to have one. Ya, you can slide by at some tracks, but it's not worth the risk of the trip on it.

Maryland Stang said:

You need a sealed box if it's a hatch. Out gassing when the battery is being charged could cause a serious health issue inside of the car. Additionally, if there is an accident you want all of that battery acid to stay inside of the box and not be slinging all over the inside of the car.

Click to expand...

i've been thinking of this mod also, but not too much!

you bring up a good point, but if it's sealed, where do any gasses go? do you end up with a pressurized acid bomb in your hatch?

Most of the kits I have seen are way under par when it comes to the correct cabling. If you are going to do one buy everything separate and do it yourself. For a hatch definately get a sealed box and secure the hell out of it to the floor. Nothing worse than getting rear ended and having your passenger catch a 40 lbs battery to the back of the head. As for performance gain, there are other places where you will probably get more of a gain unless you are out of mods or building a track car. The fox is really nose heavy and the leverage of the battery way out on the nose does amplify the 40 lbs out there.
Kevin

Sicarius428 said:

Most of the kits I have seen are way under par when it comes to the correct cabling.

Click to expand...

Taylor does have a kit with 1 gauge welding cable - but it's expensive......

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TAY%2D48204&N=700+400235+115&autoview=sku

I think the weight transferd to the back is worth the money for doing a relocate

bloopbloob said:

i've been thinking of this mod also, but not too much!

you bring up a good point, but if it's sealed, where do any gasses go? do you end up with a pressurized acid bomb in your hatch?

Click to expand...

A good sealed kit comes with a vent tube. So you will have to drill a hole some where.

i really havent put much thought into this mod so far, but now that i'm thinking about it, how can it be sealed in the first place? is the lid air tight? along with the holes for the cables? just curious.... never really seen one before. i just see the shiny box in the trunk and think it looks cool.....

I believe there is rub that seals the lid to the box, the holes for the cables are notched in the side and have rubber gromets to seal the cables. here is the link to the summit boxies. They come with the vent tube.

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4294862977+400304+4294893765+115&autoview=sku

For a battery cut off switch, see http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225
is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.

Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10
gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang
wiring.

There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.

Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.

The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug
there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when
the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the
40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the
splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent
help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.

Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire.
Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or
chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp
on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs.
Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.

How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies a turn
on signal to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Turn the
Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage
regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.

The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.



See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer)
& Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.




The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by
a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green
wires have a high quality ground..

Picture courtesy timewarped1972

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.

The relocation definetely adds traction. moving 30lbs from the front to the back really alters the balance 60lbs in your favor.
And if you don't think changing the front to back wieght ratio that much works, you are dead wrong.

I have the taylor kit.
IMO, do not use the taylor.
Buy the moroso box, and all the parts seperate and build it yourself.

The aluminum taylor kit is PITA to work on, you have to take most of the damn thing apart to work on it safely.

As far as being sealed, the kits come with rubber grommets, and a breather tube to go outside the car.

I relocated my battery on my notch and noticed a big difference in traction from a launch and through the gears. I was suprised in the difference. I didn't think it would make a difference. It has made me consider replacing the k member.

2000xp8 said:

The relocation definetely adds traction. moving 30lbs from the front to the back really alters the balance 60lbs in your favor.
And if you don't think changing the front to back wieght ratio that much works, you are dead wrong.

Click to expand...

I agree.
If your drag racing your car alot, it's worth it.
Or if your trying to clean up your engine bay for show purposes.
I'd say not worth it for a daily driver

I have a taylor box with 1 gauge wire. The ground wire goes all the way to the front grounding the block first then the body. Had some troubles with it starting at first but that turned out to be a junk battery. Moroso switch also.

I just relocated my battery in my hatch ,the box isnt sealed it has a vent tube that your supposed to run throught the floor aiming out of the car downwards the ground, its a small 3/8'' tube. Thats mandatory to have at the track if your battery is mounted in a box