Battery Terminals

ATISTANG · Jul 2, 2009

I'm upgrading from 2 gauge to 1/0 cable for my ground and power cables

i was just wondering what would be my best option for battery terminals?

something like this?

Taylor Cable 21414 - Taylor Battery Cable Terminal Kits – SummitRacing.com

is there a cheaper or better solution?

TechSteele · Jul 2, 2009

Summit's site wont load for me right now.

Taylor stuff is normally a little more expencive, see if Summit has a generic one.

IF, you have a good Radio/Audio Installer/Dealer near you, they may have large connectors as well. I have even seen Gold Plated ones that were not real expencive.

If all else fails, there is always Ebay :þ

jrichker · Jul 2, 2009

Are you running a rear mounted battery?

ATISTANG · Jul 2, 2009

jrichker said:
Are you running a rear mounted battery?

yep

jrichker · Jul 2, 2009

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.

The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by
a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green
wires have a high quality ground..

The screwdriver points to the common body ground for the alternator, battery and computer.

Picture courtesy timewarped1972

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.

For a battery cut off switch, see Moroso : Category Display
is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.

Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10
gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang
wiring.

There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.

Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.

The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug
there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when
the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the
40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the
splices. See Ford Fuel Injection How To Solder Like a Pro for some excellent
help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.

Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire.
Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or
chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp
on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs.
Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.

How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies a turn
on signal to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Turn the
Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage
regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.

The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer)
& Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring
Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

ID89GT · Jul 3, 2009

For your diagram you show of the battery and engine block and such, for the ground you have it going to the chassis,then what appears to be a ground strap from the block to the same ground location of the ground for the battery. Do you have to run a wire all the way from the block to the same spot you ground for the battery? Or do you just have it like that to show that they both have to be grounded to the chassis?

jrichker · Jul 3, 2009

ID89GT said:
For your diagram you show of the battery and engine block and such, for the ground you have it going to the chassis,then what appears to be a ground strap from the block to the same ground location of the ground for the battery. Do you have to run a wire all the way from the block to the same spot you ground for the battery? Or do you just have it like that to show that they both have to be grounded to the chassis?

Wire it just like the diagram shows, ground wire from rear of the car to the engine block. This reduces voltage drop and the possiblity of ground loops that can reduce circuit performance.

95Vert383AOD · Jul 3, 2009

Let me get a pic if you want to see. What i did was used a Odyssey Marine battery with stud posts. If you go to Home Depot or Lowes they should have a Copper terminal that bolts on like in the pic you showed. But rather than soldering the 0/1 in it has an allen socket so you can bolt the wire in. Me and a buddy have used this method with no problems.

Only issue i could see is if you still used a Non sealed Acid battery. But heck even car Amplifiers use the Allen bolt style wire bolt on. I also favor the copper connectors. I hate buying car related stuff at Home Depot...but hey when running 0/1 sometimes you need to go overkill.

ATISTANG · Jul 3, 2009

jrichker said:
Are you running a rear mounted battery?

ATISTANG said:
yep

jrichker said:
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.

The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by
a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green
wires have a high quality ground..

The screwdriver points to the common body ground for the alternator, battery and computer.

Picture courtesy timewarped1972

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.

For a battery cut off switch, see Moroso : Category Display
is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.

Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10
gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang
wiring.

There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.

Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.

The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug
there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when
the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the
40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the
splices. See Ford Fuel Injection How To Solder Like a Pro for some excellent
help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.

Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire.
Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or
chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp
on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs.
Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.

How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies a turn
on signal to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Turn the
Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage
regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.

The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer)
& Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring
Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

I was hesitant to reply yes for i feared this was coming lol. every thread where i had electrical problems you post this.

I have it hooked up this way. in fact i had it just like this except for the ground from the neg terminal to the block, and it would start when it was hot, it didn't crank very well but enough to start it. now that i added the ground from the neg terminal to the block it won't even crank when its hot.

any way its a good write up but i am wired up like that already. if i still have problems after a 1/0 power cable then i am gonna either replace the starter or upgrade to a 3g alternator, depending on what my voltage is after the car gets hot

95Vert383AOD · Jul 3, 2009

ATISTANG said:
I was hesitant to reply yes for i feared this was coming lol. every thread where i had electrical problems you post this.

I have it hooked up this way. in fact i had it just like this except for the ground from the neg terminal to the block, and it would start when it was hot, it didn't crank very well but enough to start it. now that i added the ground from the neg terminal to the block it won't even crank when its hot.

any way its a good write up but i am wired up like that already. if i still have problems after a 1/0 power cable then i am gonna either replace the starter or upgrade to a 3g alternator, depending on what my voltage is after the car gets hot

Heres a good question...What kind of battery are you running??? I ran a Deep Cycle Optima and it could never keep up with the requirements. Optimas are horrible at recharging....especially when you have a stereo. I burned out 2 alternators/ Upgraded to 0/1 and still had charging issues. My stereo would bring the charging system down to 11-12 volts at idle. I recommend an Odyssey battery....they recharge very very fast. To the point you don't need a capacitor.

To give you an idea i left the light in my car on for 2-3 days....i had ZERO power from the battery not even an interior light. Jumped it took less than 3 min. to jump on a totally dead battery in the cold. I let the car run for about 15 min. Drove to my friends house 4 streets over and parked it. Came out 3 hours later and it started right up.

What i'm trying to say is that Odyssey batterys suck!!! I took my Odyssey battery to a local parts store where they tested it and even let me charge it up there for free. All was good and then the battery started doing the same thing a few days later.

Not sure if it was mentioned but you did check the voltage regulator right?? They like to fail.

Chris

ID89GT · Jul 3, 2009

95Vert383AOD said:
Heres a good question...What kind of battery are you running??? I ran a Deep Cycle Optima and it could never keep up with the requirements. Optimas are horrible at recharging....especially when you have a stereo. I burned out 2 alternators/ Upgraded to 0/1 and still had charging issues. My stereo would bring the charging system down to 11-12 volts at idle. I recommend an Odyssey battery....they recharge very very fast. To the point you don't need a capacitor.

To give you an idea i left the light in my car on for 2-3 days....i had ZERO power from the battery not even an interior light. Jumped it took less than 3 min. to jump on a totally dead battery in the cold. I let the car run for about 15 min. Drove to my friends house 4 streets over and parked it. Came out 3 hours later and it started right up.

What i'm trying to say is that Odyssey batterys suck!!! I took my Odyssey battery to a local parts store where they tested it and even let me charge it up there for free. All was good and then the battery started doing the same thing a few days later.

Not sure if it was mentioned but you did check the voltage regulator right?? They like to fail.

Chris

Your first paragraph you say you recommend an odyssey, but then later on you say they suck? I think what you meant to say is the Optimas suck later on, based off the first paragraph.. lol

ATISTANG · Jul 3, 2009

ID89GT said:
Your first paragraph you say you recommend an odyssey, but then later on you say they suck? I think what you meant to say is the Optimas suck later on, based off the first paragraph.. lol

i was confused to

idk if i should ask him about checking the voltage regulator

i get 13.5-14 volts when it is running so i'd say its good

i don't have a stereo

the biggest power draw is probably the electric fan

95Vert383AOD · Jul 3, 2009

Hahaa oops...sorry bout that Optima sucks... Odyssey good...lol...I confuse myself sometimes. Sorry about the misunderstanding. Even with the stereo off i noticed my Optima wasn't charging like it was supposed to....drove me nuts. Gel Cells dont charge as quickly as AGM batteries. Lots of unbiased info on the net about it. Im using one of those power hungry Lincoln Mark viii fans. If you're not running a large stereo system them 0/1 is overkill...2ga works just fine.

Whats the voltage at the battery and Alt. with the car idling. If its 14ish your're ok. at most youll have a .2-.3 voltage drop at the battery if any at all. Put the tester on the battery terminal itself not the cable terminal. Sorry if this is repeat info.....

Ideal voltage is 14.4

jrichker · Jul 4, 2009

Using 2 gauge wire is not the best plan for a rear mounted battery. There is at least 15 ft of wire, and a 180-200 amp draw. That means a 1 or 1/0 gauge wire.

95Vert383AOD · Jul 4, 2009

Wow nice chart....if its not already that would be a good sticky.

ATISTANG · Jul 6, 2009

voltage is good until you are driving around with the hood closed and everything gets good and hot then it gets down to 12.5-12.9, if you run the lights or anything else then it dips down to around 12.0

I'm gonna install this 1/0 this week hopefully and see where that gets me

95Vert383AOD · Jul 6, 2009

Maybe you have an alt. thats only failing in hot conditions?

ATISTANG · Jul 7, 2009

95Vert383AOD said:
Maybe you have an alt. thats only failing in hot conditions?

could be, if this 1/0 doesn't fix the problem then i am probably gonna but a 3g alt on

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