Before I hurt the stang...someone help (video)

check your cap, rotor,spark cables, plug gap is too wide etc what engine is and what plug gap you got in it? try closing it, but the problem im shure that its is missfire

probably has to do with secondary ignition but does the car want to die or stumble when you come to a stop? if so its a converter problem or a valve body problem (specifically a tcc solenoid problem)

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on. After you have found & fixed the codes, then start looking at the ignition system.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.



See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

Wal-Mart may now have the LCD display scanner for less than $35

I thought FM was only for rear ends? Does it do anything good for a trans?

do not put Fric Mod in the trans. thats only for the rear end. You could drain the trans and change the fluid...that might be a place to start. but firstly, pull codes and check plugs,wires,cap,rotor,coil. good luck

Just keep in mind additives wont fix a mechanical problem, all they MIGHT do is conceal which just means when the problem does come back itll be a lot worst.

You absolutely should get the codes before you do anything else.

The bucking could be as simple as a bad plug wire, as that will give the same symptoms as a torque converter shudder in an AODE/4R70W or A4LD.

But messing with it with out the codes is not the best way to approach it.

rd said:

You absolutely should get the codes before you do anything else.

The bucking could be as simple as a bad plug wire, as that will give the same symptoms as a torque converter shudder in an AODE/4R70W or A4LD.

But messing with it with out the codes is not the best way to approach it.

Click to expand...

seems like we have a tranny guy here....?

but im with everyone else. pull the codes and see what they say or look very closely at your wires and plugs to see if any of them are burnt

Lubeguard makes an anti-shudder additive for the e-trannies - it would be the only product I'd try.

Good luck Joe.

donno if it helps, but the part where the tack is jumpy resembles a problem I had /w the TFI module. After the car warmed up it would sputter (the tach, and the engine rpms) /w part or full throttle around 3-5k rpm... it would drop the rpms back to 3k and climb up.

The 2nd vids look like your rpms are jumping a lot... did the car accelerate a lot? It looks like the transmission slipped or you spun the tires.