The 95 made 205 rwhp fresh motor stock e7 w .512 lift cam. Since then the lower intake has been ported and it has had a lil exhaust work so maybe a tad more now. Going to get a retune in dec
Yes, gears are definitely the next thing I'll do. Actually was getting ready to order them once I get my summit bucks for ordering the K&N filter through them (my old one was all dry rotted)..
You recommend 3.73s over 4.11? I was going back and forth between the two? What's your RPM at like 80MPH? With the 2.73's I'm at 2k. are the 3.73's still under 3,000?
I have the same, gears weren't too pricey but the install wasI assume you mean 4.10's. It all depends on how much city/highway driving. Some guys go with the lower 4.10. I feel the 3.73 is the right gear for me. You will notice a huge difference in acceleration and actually it is easier on the AOD around town as you are not lugging around. Your mpg will also go up a little in the city.
Your rpm will go up a about 500rpmvs the 2.73
http://www.coastdriveline.com/htmlfolder/calculator2.html
at 70 mph
2.73 1700 mph
3.73 2200 mph
at 80mph
2.73 1900 rpm
3.73 2600rpm
Do yourself a favor and only get FORD gears and the upgraded install kit that has all of the bearings, shims, and the gt500 pinion bearing. A much better quality kit than the standard install kit. This has everything needed, including the gear oil and friction modifier. Stangnet members get a discount as well. I bought this exact same kit and the install went very smooth. No whines or howls.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-4209FRB-K/Mustang-88-373-Ratio-Rear-End-Gear-Kit
300hp is not unheard of with stock E7 heads. There are even guys doing that at the rear wheels. There is probably some port work done as well on those heads, but the bowl area is a large restriction on the E7 head. I don't doubt that it gets close to that number.
Kurt
I assume you mean 4.10's. It all depends on how much city/highway driving. Some guys go with the lower 4.10. I feel the 3.73 is the right gear for me. You will notice a huge difference in acceleration and actually it is easier on the AOD around town as you are not lugging around. Your mpg will also go up a little in the city.
Your rpm will go up a about 500rpmvs the 2.73
http://www.coastdriveline.com/htmlfolder/calculator2.html
at 70 mph
2.73 1700 mph
3.73 2200 mph
at 80mph
2.73 1900 rpm
3.73 2600rpm
Do yourself a favor and only get FORD gears and the upgraded install kit that has all of the bearings, shims, and the gt500 pinion bearing. A much better quality kit than the standard install kit. This has everything needed, including the gear oil and friction modifier. Stangnet members get a discount as well. I bought this exact same kit and the install went very smooth. No whines or howls.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-4209FRB-K/Mustang-88-373-Ratio-Rear-End-Gear-Kit
I think it would've made a better point if you would've said swamp land in AZ, Florida- plausibleYeah, and I've got some swamp land in Florida for sale.
I think it would've made a better point if you would've said swamp land in AZ, Florida- plausible
On an engine dyno....these number I could believe...in which case, big deal. Those aren't that far off from stock HO numbers.....but rating them SAE, or on a chassis dyno, I'm raising the on their claims.
Yes I agree. Ps: the history chan made rich guys out of "swamp people"Plausible or not, the point is....nobody in their right mind would want to buy swamp land.....
....nor would anyone in their right mind believe 300fwhp/336tq, (never mind 300rwhp) on a stock bottom end 302, with stock compression .498 camshaft with E7TE heads....ported or not.
If it were that easy, everyone would be doing it.
There are guys barely scraping those numbers...and most not coming anywhere close with GT40/GT40P castings and they're twice the head the E7TE is....and they're nothing special either.
On an engine dyno....these number I could believe...in which case, big deal. Those aren't that far off from stock HO numbers.....but rating them SAE, or on a chassis dyno, I'm raising the on their claims.
Plausible or not, the point is....nobody in their right mind would want to buy swamp land.....
....nor would anyone in their right mind believe 300fwhp/336tq, (never mind 300rwhp) on a stock bottom end 302, with stock compression .498 camshaft with E7TE heads....ported or not.
If it were that easy, everyone would be doing it.
There are guys barely scraping those numbers...and most not coming anywhere close with GT40/GT40P castings and they're twice the head the E7TE is....and they're nothing special either.
On an engine dyno....these number I could believe...in which case, big deal. Those aren't that far off from stock HO numbers.....but rating them SAE, or on a chassis dyno, I'm raising the on their claims.
Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a set of aluminums to hit 300 hp than to rework a stock motor until it reaches 300 if a fella was paying labor and parts?Believe it or not there are guys with 300rwhp with stock E7 heads. It requires more than .498 of lift and more compression. Once you start porting all the Ford iron heads flow about the same. There is no real advantage to buying GT40 or GT40p heads.
Kurt
I wouldn't say it would be cheaper, but it would be easier and more reliable. There are a handful of guys running over 300rwhp on E7 heads. That last 20 or 30 hp is hard to come by. It means running over 10:1 static compression, coupled with a cam that creates a lot of dynamic compression. It means being right on the edge of detonation all the time. Being on that edge makes it tough to drive the car in a wider range of conditions and the fuel has to be spot on. If you get a tank of gas that wasn't quite 93 octane, it's going to detonate; if it's just a little too hot and humid, it's going to detonate. Unless you are using those heads for a specific purpose, you are better off going with aluminum heads, or giving up some hp to make the car more drivable.
Kurt
What you talkin Willis?Different strokes for different folks.
A set of thumper E7s are around $700. It's about the same as an Explorer top end considering they are rebuilt heads. They will definitely out perform the Explorer heads.
Kurt
Ok, so it's $200 for the heads. Then you usually have to sit in a nasty mosquito ridden junkyard for a few hours to pull them and get Malaria. That's worth something right there. Then it's at least $200 to get them rebuilt. You are up to $400 + hardware. A ported E7 is going to out perform a stock Explorer head by a pretty good margin. I'd skip the Explorer head, and go straight to a performance E7. It's a better bargain in my book.
Kurt
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View attachment 122502
I was looking at a set of thumper e7's a year or so back but they were like $800 and some odd and I couldn't justify that. That's just too much for used reworked stock heads
Buddy Rawls
Thats exactly the point of my earlier post. Unless you are very specific in your need for the E7 casting, or any 125cc, or 144cc castings for that matter, there are far better selections within the aftermarket for similar money (used), and many new heads are not drastically more. If you are going to drop some decent money into a stock head, ported or not, then there is likely an important reason (whether its valid to others or not); not simply the want for a better head.
Ok, so it's $200 for the heads. Then you usually have to sit in a nasty mosquito ridden junkyard for a few hours to pull them and get Malaria. That's worth something right there. Then it's at least $200 to get them rebuilt. You are up to $400 + hardware. A ported E7 is going to out perform a stock Explorer head by a pretty good margin. I'd skip the Explorer head, and go straight to a performance E7. It's a better bargain in my book.
Kurt
Thumper quit doing the e7 heads and towards the end of their run he was wanting a lil over $800 for em if you went w the spring upgrade for cams over .500 lift. I know this because I was kinda lookin at em and I have a cam w .512 lift. I didnt get em bc $800 is just too much for e7 w stock valves. During the period I was interested in them I researched the sht outta em and the reviews were iffy. Ed Curtis flowed a set and they weren't much better than stock really (deff not $800 better) He also had a "combo package deal" that came w a cam, believe it was a trickflow cam. That he marketed that package as "a proven 12 second combo" and it was around $1100. Well a guy on the corral ran that 12 sec combo in 14 and some odd seconds. So while the thumpers might have been a decent bang for buck alternative when they were $600 or so I would strongly disagree they were worth purchasing once they hit the $800 mark. I think ported stock parts are only worth while if you're doing the work yourself. I was a sucker and paid a lil over $200 to have tmoss port my lower ho intske. I think I was a sucker anyways I'm going back to dyno dec 2 to find out how big a chump I am. One more rant and I'll get outta y'all's hair: It kinda chaps my azz when I do google searches for reviews for parts that guys are modifying at home and are supposed to be bang for buck items ie: tmoss, silverfox, thumper and when you read the reviews that are like 3-5 yrs old it sounds like a good deal bc the price is right. But when you go to the website you find out that current prices are several hundred dollars more for the same part/service and often times they are only a few bucks shy of a "name brand." I was going to post a link to a tmoss/thumper dyno but I can't find it now. Before the heads and intake he made 170 rwhp after he made 215. Oh and mike "thumper" is only doing Mini Cooper heads now. Tough guy huh.....A set of thumper E7s are around $700. It's about the same as an Explorer top end considering they are rebuilt heads. They will definitely out perform the Explorer heads.
Kurt