Bent clutch pushrod.? Does anyone make a hardened one?

[clev357]

This the second time I bent one. This time it's really bad. I had to start the car in gear. Is there a fix or do I need to have a hardened one made?

 

[1320stang]

This the second time I bent one. This time it's really bad. I had to start the car in gear. Is there a fix or do I need to have a hardened one made?

You're talking about the one that goes from the z-bar to the fork right?

Is your pressure plate really that stiff? One thing I can think of is to strighten it, or get a straight one, and find a piece of tubing (chromoly is my thought) to slip over it and weld the ends to it. But first I'd figure out why it's bending. The big block ones are different than the small block ones, but are thicker I believe.

 

[clev357]

You're talking about the one that goes from the z-bar to the fork right?

Is your pressure plate really that stiff? One thing I can think of is to strighten it, or get a straight one, and find a piece of tubing (chromoly is my thought) to slip over it and weld the ends to it. But first I'd figure out why it's bending. The big block ones are different than the small block ones, but are thicker I believe.

Yes, it's the lower one.

That's exactly my thoughts. I was telling my cousin that last night about the tubing I just need to find the right inner diameter. Don't where to get that stuff in GA.

 

[D.Hearne]

Well Clev, it's time for you to learn welding 101. The big block clutch rods weren't any stronger than the small block ones. Easiest way I remember to get a tougher rod was to make one. The clutch rods are , what 3/8ths diameter? ( if I remember correctly) Or if you don't have time or means to make one, send me yours and I'll make one for you.

 

[GaPonyFarm]

Yes, it's the lower one.

That's exactly my thoughts. I was telling my cousin that last night about the tubing I just need to find the right inner diameter. Don't where to get that stuff in GA.

Find a local metal fabrication shop and see if they can reinforce it for you. They might have some other ideas as well, without draining your wallet. Take a new on and the old one, so they understand what you're trying to accomplish.

 

[2nd Mustang]

My 67 with a 302 motor had a clutch rod (z-bar to fork) that was hard as a rock. I was trying to make more threads on it to put in more adjustments and I broke the tool. The replacement one I bought at California Mustang was really easy to cut through with a hacksaw. My car had a combination of different year parts, so went back to the original pieces.

 

[1320stang]

Well Clev, it's time for you to learn welding 101. The big block clutch rods weren't any stronger than the small block ones. Easiest way I remember to get a tougher rod was to make one. The clutch rods are , what 3/8ths diameter? ( if I remember correctly) Or if you don't have time or means to make one, send me yours and I'll make one for you.

D., I was hoping you'd get in on this post. I can't remember, but was it the small block or the big block rod that was threaded (I think big block?) and the other just had a pointy end that eventually wears a hole thru the fork (I'm thinking small block). Now which one do you have Clev? I'm thinking of what if it were made with a heim joint, or solid rod end, or a clevis end with a piece of 'moly tubing and the stock end welded to the clutch fork end should cover either type end. The jam nut against the end of the tube will keep adjustment and a larger jam nut welded to the outside of the tube would allow you to turn it with a wrench, only question is, would you have enough room with your headers. If you have the threaded end style, a left hand thread heim, rod end, or clevis would still allow for adjustment.

 

[John Z]

This the second time I bent one. This time it's really bad. I had to start the car in gear. Is there a fix or do I need to have a hardened one made?

Mine bent because with other mods (T5 transmission, headers, etc.) the rod could not be aligned straight. The PO forced the rod into position to get the linkage to work, which put a bending stress on the rod. It worked for a few thousand miles then bent about 90 degrees. I solved the problem by fabricating a replacement rod using a heim (sp) joint with a side stud to replace the "block" part and a piece of threaded rod. The parts and machining cost about $40. I had some pics but lost them in a computer crash. Let me know if you're interested and I'll try to crawl under the car and photo the finished product. Works well.

 

[clev357]

Let me know if you're interested and I'll try to crawl under the car and photo the finished product. Works well.

Mine doesn't seem to line up either. I'll see if I can get a shot of it. It would be awesome if you take shot or two of it. If it's not too much trouble.

 

[HistoricMustang]

Get the thing out and get some braces welded into the Z-bar and be done with the problem. Today's clutches do not help the problem as you upgrade.

A bent Z-bar cost me a race or two early on so I learned the hard way.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

[D.Hearne]

D., I was hoping you'd get in on this post. I can't remember, but was it the small block or the big block rod that was threaded (I think big block?) and the other just had a pointy end that eventually wears a hole thru the fork (I'm thinking small block). Now which one do you have Clev? I'm thinking of what if it were made with a heim joint, or solid rod end, or a clevis end with a piece of 'moly tubing and the stock end welded to the clutch fork end should cover either type end. The jam nut against the end of the tube will keep adjustment and a larger jam nut welded to the outside of the tube would allow you to turn it with a wrench, only question is, would you have enough room with your headers. If you have the threaded end style, a left hand thread heim, rod end, or clevis would still allow for adjustment.

Yea the big block rods were threaded, but I can't recall how long the threaded portion was. It's been nearly twenty years since I saw the unmodified clutch rod on my 67. I do recall bending it several times, and running out of adjustment with it. Depending on the clutch and pressure plate components, the stock rod just doesn't cut it on adjustability or resistence to bending. Your idea of a clevis, or heim joint and moly tubing with a threaded end would work, but I wouldn't weld it to the clutch fork, the extra weight would make transmission installation harder than it already is. By the way, if y'all are up to a neat idea that I came up with, don't toss your old small block long head bolts, they make dandy transmission/engine alignment studs after you cut the heads off. I installed the 302 in my Ranger by my lonesome last month using some to align the motor to the Toploader's bellhousing, motor and transmission went together like butter.They also are handy when stabbing a transmission into the bellhousing.

 

[1320stang]

Yea the big block rods were threaded, but I can't recall how long the threaded portion was. It's been nearly twenty years since I saw the unmodified clutch rod on my 67. I do recall bending it several times, and running out of adjustment with it. Depending on the clutch and pressure plate components, the stock rod just doesn't cut it on adjustability or resistence to bending. Your idea of a clevis, or heim joint and moly tubing with a threaded end would work, but I wouldn't weld it to the clutch fork, the extra weight would make transmission installation harder than it already is. By the way, if y'all are up to a neat idea that I came up with, don't toss your old small block long head bolts, they make dandy transmission/engine alignment studs after you cut the heads off. I installed the 302 in my Ranger by my lonesome last month using some to align the motor to the Toploader's bellhousing, motor and transmission went together like butter.They also are handy when stabbing a transmission into the bellhousing.

Naw, I meant the clutch fork end of the stock rod welded to the new assembly, not welded to the clutch fork itself. Way ahead of you on the head bolt deal, I even zipper wheeled some slots in them to take them out with a screw driver if they get too tight to take out by fingers. Have a set made up for the 4 corners of a SBF intake too (not headbolts )

 

[D.Hearne]

I use 2" carb studs to place the intake, then use them on the intake As far as slottting the 7/16 studs, one word--- vice grips ( OK that's two words ) I try my best to avoid any bolt/screw that requires a flat head screw driver, the guy who invented slotted screws should have been drawn and quartered