I am getting started on my suspension. Wanting to lower the car around 2 inches, with a decent ride. Looks are more important than ride, but performance stands on top. Any help would be nice. 


And the price goes up... da-da-da-da-daaa...Matt90GT said:first off you will not get a good ride on the stock k member with the car lowered 2". you are going to hurt your handling badly with that much drop. stock K member can go about 1-1.25" max.
Especially if you do a K-member! These are two of the highest priced K-member kits in the industry, and there is a good reason why. Inferior tubular K's and A-arms fail on a regular basis. These two are stronger and better designed than stock. Unless your car never goes around corners or is mainly a trailor queen, it is in the best interest of preserving your life that you get your K-kit from Griggs or MM. I regularly hear of people nailing the brakes in a turn and bending a "lightweight" tubular A arm at 100mph, some are luckierr than others but it doesn't have to happen at all. Critical components are worth shelling out more $ for, and these are more critical than most people realise. Griggs and MM are the only ones I have not heard a single issue about. (No, wait, I never heard of a Kenny Brown arm failing, but like Iowa said- don't mix parts...)Matt90GT said:Griggs or MM.
Yes, MM's is adjustable. This is one of the few Griggs parts I'm not crazy about compared to MM.Iowa91LX said:About the P-rod. I dont know if MM even offers an adjustable model like Griggs? But I like the idea of the adjustable P-rod to be able to change the roll center of your car to compensate for different tire sizes, or compounds. I do not have the adjustable P-rod, I am just running the solid P-rod on my car and I still like it. Is it any better than MM's, Probably not?
