best place for engine to chassis ground

BlackPearl955.0

New Member

Jun 8, 2007

126

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Blashyrkh, Wisconsin

Mar 10, 2008

#1

• Mar 10, 2008

• #1

as statedf where does ity mounty to the engine from the chassis?

 

95Vert

New Member

Aug 19, 2004

1,785

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North Mexico (deep south Texas)

Mar 10, 2008

#2

• Mar 10, 2008

• #2

I used the timing chain cover on the driver's side.

 

BlackPearl955.0

New Member

Jun 8, 2007

126

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Blashyrkh, Wisconsin

Mar 10, 2008

#3

• Mar 10, 2008

• #3

it doesnt reach
I dont want to ectend the wire either because I dont want to change any amount of current through it. where does it normally go
any other place have some connection to the block that will ground it?
:damnit: :damnit: :damnit:
im so pissed

 

earleys94gt

Active Member

Aug 31, 2003

1,223

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Ashley, Ohio

Mar 10, 2008

#4

• Mar 10, 2008

• #4

Some place down by the motor mounts?

 

BlackPearl955.0

New Member

Jun 8, 2007

126

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Blashyrkh, Wisconsin

Mar 10, 2008

#5

• Mar 10, 2008

• #5

thats what i thought but I would need to lift the engine up a bit and maybe put it under there? but I was looking to do something... easier

 

earleys94gt

Active Member

Aug 31, 2003

1,223

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49

Ashley, Ohio

Mar 10, 2008

#6

• Mar 10, 2008

• #6

BlackPearl955.0 said:

thats what i thought but I would need to lift the engine up a bit and maybe put it under there? but I was looking to do something... easier

Click to expand...

Maybe something off the backside of the intake manifold area by the firewall?

I would go out and look at mine, but there is a nice combonation of snow and ice out there

 

BlackPearl955.0

New Member

Jun 8, 2007

126

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Blashyrkh, Wisconsin

Mar 10, 2008

#7

• Mar 10, 2008

• #7

earleys94gt said:

Maybe something off the backside of the intake manifold area by the firewall?

I would go out and look at mine, but there is a nice combonation of snow and ice out there

Click to expand...

Yea same here.
Its F'n hard to get a creeper under a car when the ground is a sheet of Ice. This year has been record snow and really cold so almost no stang time for like 2 months straight

the sun went down and I got my ass inside before it froze so in the morning I will be back out there

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

33

129

Mar 11, 2008

#8

• Mar 11, 2008

• #8

The timing chain cover isnt the greatest location because of galvanic corrosion concerns.

I chose to mimic the factory driver's side mount on the passenger side. I have a 4 gauge cable from the motor-side of the motor mount to the passenger frame rail.

Good luck.

 

ronstang94

Member

May 10, 2007

204

1

18

Phx, AZ

Mar 11, 2008

#9

• Mar 11, 2008

• #9

The two major factory grounding points on the block that i know of are a stud on the drivers side of the timing chain cover and the stud closest to the front of the car holding the drivers side motor mount to the block.

 

gcomfx.com

Founding Member

Oct 22, 2002

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56

Republic, MO

Mar 11, 2008

#10

• Mar 11, 2008

• #10

I used a large ground wire on each side. Both run from the engine mount bolt. (Second nut on it, so I can don't have to remove the engine to add or remove the wire.) Then I have one side connected close to the original location, and the other is in the frame rail to a bolt on the bottom of I think the ABS bracket. I would have to double check. But this solution solved all my ground issues. My gauges were jumping all over before this.

 

Dino Dino Bambino

15 Year Member

Jun 13, 2007

1,672

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79

Cyprus

Mar 11, 2008

#11

• Mar 11, 2008

• #11

earleys94gt said:

Maybe something off the backside of the intake manifold area by the firewall?

Click to expand...

Exactly what I did. I added an extra ground cable from the upper intake to the firewall. Very easy to do and I only needed a short length of cable. Cured the flickering gauge problem.

 

Car Nut

Founding Member

Jul 6, 2000

1,176

1

37

Snellville, Georgia (Atlanta area)

Mar 11, 2008

#12

• Mar 11, 2008

• #12

The stock ground connection between the engine and frame are very easy to reach. Just look for the thin braded cable.

Buy a negative battery cable about the same length as the stocker and make sure the new cable has the simple hole connector already crimped. This will last you a very long time.

Cost: Maybe $5 and 5 minutes.

You can do the exact same thing, but use a new negative cable to go from the negative battery post to a ground on the radiator support (actually the area within a few inches of the negative post). Cost and time is same as above.