Block for a 393 (maybe a 408) stroker (roller cam)
- Thread starter BrownPSU78
- Start date
dennis112
15 Year Member
BrownPSU78 said:
Will work if you buy "link-bar" type lifters from someplace like Crane. Expect to spend $400 or more for the lifters.
dennis112
15 Year Member
wrong, with a non roller block you need the smaller base circle cam or shorter lifters, and the link bar lifters are the same hieght as stock. the reason is that the lifter cutout will pop out of the lifter bore causeing a drop in oil pressure. the smaller base circle cam prevents this. you can also go to a solid roller lifter as well to prevent it as those lifters are shorter, but if you want the hydraulic roller lifters, you need a roller cam block or a smaller base circle cam.
Well, in figuring what to pay for one, add up the extra cost in going roller with a non roller block. I don't have the exact figure, but to do a roller in a non roller block will set you back around 5-600 bucks. You're need to compare the cost of the cam, lifters, retainer hardware ( if any) plus new pushrods ( if you already have the non roller ones, you'll definately need new ones. With a roller block, you can use the stock stuff plus have a bigger choice in cam grinds that are far cheaper. Look in the classifieds here on SN, you'll find quite a few used ones to choose from, that's the one thing about roller cams, they're reusable and don't wear like flat tappets do. Plus there's always a few new grinds from those guys who buy stuff, then change their minds.BrownPSU78 said:
I bought a new Z303 there for $115 shipped for my 331. 
RajunCajun
New Member
- Nov 26, 2003
- 180
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payed 184.93 from junkyard but when I pulled it and discovered after taking the heads off in the junkyard thatit had just been rebuilt and wasnt even any carbon buildup yet. I didnt tell them that either. They only wanted 265 here for a runner so I can imagine there are quite a few f250s you could pull one out of.
dennis112
15 Year Member
rbohm said:
I maintain my original statement is correct in that the Crane (and the rebadged FMS) HR Tie-Bar lifters work fine in an early block with a normal base cam. No modifications are needed, except for maybe a little lifter bore honing and the normal pushrod length issues. Check out this link were people much smarter than me discuss it:
http://bbs.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=30333
Two thoughts: as far as the block, I really wonder if it doesn't work better to just buy a pre-machined and built short block from a reputable builder. All of the time, effort, machine work, etc... I am contemplating doing this for my 2+2. What I would REALLY like to do is suck it up and buy the World Man-o-War 460 small block. That would ROCK in a classic Mustang!
Second: graduating in '82 is not old. Graduating in '78 is OLD!
Second: graduating in '82 is not old. Graduating in '78 is OLD!
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