Blown head gasket - I think. Questions inside

HISSIN50 said:
:OT: Scott, mine's just a Stant, but you're welcome to borrow it anytime.

Cornwell is some rediculously wickedly nice stuff. :nice: And though it's been awhile since I priced them, that's a great price for a quality tester.


Yeah they do have nice stuff, but too damn expensive. Where did you get yours? I wouldn't know where to get something like that except from one of the tool trucks that come by every week.

I had to pay $65 to get my car towed last time I did it. Most companies have a minimum charge just to hook up. I was quoted almost 100 for a 10 mile trip.
Scott
 
I got my tester second-hand some time back. It's real basic (I'd need to buy adapters for non-standard openings and stuff). Ebay always has some new and used ones (that might be where mine came from - I cant remember).

I have heard that Napa sells them, and a lot of online tool stores do (Midway auto, et al).

I've gotten lucky with some cheaper tows I guess. That 100 buck price is rediculous. :eek:
 
By any chance do you have an aftermarket thermostat housing? I got the chrome Ford one only have it warp on me and leave coolant sitting on top of my timing chain housing. I tore the whole front of the engine off only to find out it was just the thermostat housing (fortunately I was planning on having the timing chain housing powdercoated anyway).
 
95strokerPSU said:
By any chance do you have an aftermarket thermostat housing? I got the chrome Ford one only have it warp on me and leave coolant sitting on top of my timing chain housing. I tore the whole front of the engine off only to find out it was just the thermostat housing (fortunately I was planning on having the timing chain housing powdercoated anyway).

Yeah the chrome ones stick. RC had one hell of a time tryingto get his to stop leaking. I believe he never did and got a non-chrome one.
Scott
 
It seems like a lot of chrome housings sucks (it's not just the Ford/FRPP units). And the crap cast units from the parts store rusts.

Someone could probably make some serious cash (A Wazee kind of niche) by making decent stat housings. :D
 
So it turns out it was a blown lower intake gasket. I never woulda thought that much coolant could blow outa there that fast. Both sides were deformed, but the passenger side was blown out in one spot.

Any thoughts on how that might have happened? Improper torque on the lower intake?
 
mo_dingo said:
I haven't seen many on here.....or maybe people don't post it if they do.....

Typically the rotating assembly or bearings go first.
Scott
actually, assuming the tune is good (no detonation) and the rotating assy, is in good shape, the stock rotating assembly will outlive the block. head over to turbomustangs.com and you will see what i mean. there are many people on there that have run bone stock shortblocks and most of the failures were because of the block splitting at the main caps and having the split go right down the center of the lifter valley. upon disassembly, the rotating assembly usually checked out fine.

as for the coolant problem, run a compression test as well as the coolant pressure test. if it is a head gasket, you will be way down on compression in at least one of the cylinders where if it is a lower intake gasket, the compression should check out fine. it is definitely worth checking before unnecessarily taking the heads off and replacing perfectly good gaskets. also, as far as $800 goes, if you have the time, tools, and basic mechanical know how, i would definitely do it yourself rather than paying to have it done. keep us updated.
 
Green 94:

Thanks for the follow up. I got it on the road again.

The shop pulled the lower intake and found a failed gasket. Passenger side was blown, and driver's side was getting ready to go. They installed new with sealer this time.
 
Green 94 5.0 said:
actually, assuming the tune is good (no detonation) and the rotating assy, is in good shape, the stock rotating assembly will outlive the block. head over to turbomustangs.com and you will see what i mean. there are many people on there that have run bone stock shortblocks and most of the failures were because of the block splitting at the main caps and having the split go right down the center of the lifter valley. upon disassembly, the rotating assembly usually checked out fine.

Well they are blowing up their motors from putting boost to them, so that makes sense.

but my guess is on a n/a car, or even more so, a stock motor, the bearings or rods/pistons will go first. jmo
Scott
 
mo_dingo said:
Well they are blowing up their motors from putting boost to them, so that makes sense.

but my guess is on a n/a car, or even more so, a stock motor, the bearings or rods/pistons will go first. jmo
Scott
well thats a given, but no matter what the h/c/i combo, unless the tune is awful and the car is detonating all over the place, the block nor the rotating assembly shouldnt be a concern at all. (aside from wearing from age and use)