BMR Race Lower Control Arm Install

cleveland · Aug 19, 2005

For those who have already done this mod... was the rear end more noisy afterwards? I havent seen anybody else install the "Race" version so I didnt really know what to expect.

I still have to adjust the units for the proper pinion angle for better launching and to help correct from the Sportline drop. Where do I find an angle finder if not at a hardware store?

So far I have noticed no wheelhop but I sure can spin the tires when I drop my foot now. I may just have to get some drag wheels and tires.

I have a pic but I'll post that later.

-Dan

05canuck · Aug 19, 2005

That’s cool to hear Dan..I bought mine before I got my car and have been even thinking of selling them ( I have the top as well ). I have the ones with spherical style bearings and have heard that they are "very hardcore" when it comes to ride and noise. So any input would be great Thanks Man.

p.s out of your mods so far what is the best?

cleveland · Aug 19, 2005

I think we have the same units and they are indeed extreme but thats kinda the route I like going. I dont know if they need grease even though the BMR checkout tried to sell me a $20 tube, was wondering if that was a good idea or not.

The install was pretty easy as long as you have an 18mm socket and a large ratchet or torque wrench. It took me about 2 hours because I was taking my sweet time and I didnt have air tools on hand. The whole job could take 45 minutes though.

I wont know how much I like these things until I get to the strip next week, thats only going to happen though if my nitrous bottle gets mounted again. Im hoping to cut a 1.9 or better 60 foot. The lower the better of course.

So far I would have to say that the JLT was the best mod so far just for the $$$ and very little install time but the NX kit is the one thing that defines this car.

I do love everything that I've done so far but Im always looking forward to what Im going to do next. Like 4.10 gears and headers...

-Dan

05canuck · Aug 19, 2005

Dan
So the ride is rougher then before? I'm going with the Idea of this car being my Muscle car built my way. I want the car to handle like it’s on rails and leave the line without shaking the crap out of me (wheel hop) and I think with the combo of LCA's and springs and some wider tires I will be more then happy. I have really liked your post before and nx kit is on my list to as well as is gears

cleveland · Aug 19, 2005

The ride is like "on rails" and I love it. Freeway driving isnt effected but low speed parking lots and uneven roads are a bit shakey.

-Dan

gp001 · Aug 19, 2005

I have the BMR adjustable LCAs with one bushed end and one spherical end. I've had them on for a while. They work well, but are noisy as heck.

cleveland · Aug 20, 2005

I love Summitracing.com

http://store.summitracing.com/defau...earchinresults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp

Angle Finder by CE

By the by, here is a pic of the passengerside LCA installed.

-Dan

05canuck · Aug 20, 2005

yup very same.

Power Surge · Aug 20, 2005

We use the Metco billet control arms, with the relocation mounts. The Metcos are nice because they use an aluminum bushing in on one end, and a urethane one on the other end. So you don't get the clacking sound of a rod end.

The other thing that should be mentioned, is that the rear suspension has poor factory angles. If you lower the car, you completely throw the suspension out of whack, from a traction standpoint. If you look at the pics of the red bars above, you can see how they angle towards the ground. That puts your instant center on the ground instead of in the middle of the car. That is why you can spin the tires so easily. Metco makes rear relocation brackets (for use with their LCAs only though) that moves the rear of the LCA down and gives you back your instant center.

Just FYI.

bigcat · Aug 20, 2005

cleveland, does the arm point down? its hard to tell, because it is on the jack stands in the pic.....

Power Surge · Aug 20, 2005

Oh, one more tip for lowered 05s... You need to cut off the first level of the urethane snubber on the axle. Otherwise you will bottom out on it on launch, and that's not good for traction either .

05canuck · Aug 20, 2005

just looked at your site sal,so you can only adjust the 3rd link? have you tried anything but the Metco? kinda pricey too double what I paid. are they twice as good?

Power Surge · Aug 20, 2005

05canuck said:
just looked at your site sal,so you can only adjust the 3rd link? have you tried anything but the Metco? kinda pricey too double what I paid. are they twice as good?

Yes you can only adjust the upper link, but that's the one that sets your pinion angle. You could do it with the lower links, but then you have to worry about keeping the rear square from side to side with adjustable lowers. Nothing wrong with that, just one more thing to have to do though.

Yes the Metcos are pricey. But my customers demand the best. I am not looking to sell people "cheaper" products than what I feel is the best just to make a buck. I'd rather sell somebody a product that I know works, regardless of the cost.

cleveland · Aug 20, 2005

bigcat said:
cleveland, does the arm point down? its hard to tell, because it is on the jack stands in the pic.....

Its pointed down in the front.

This is just my first step to correct the rear end geometry and I havent even made any adjustments yet. Basically these LCAs are adjusted to the same length as the OEM units for the time being.

When I get my angle finder I will begin the adjustments and go from there. Im putting a hold on buying the relocation brackets until I track test just the LCAs, they are a weld in only so it isnt an easy install for me since I dont do welding.

Power Surge said:
Oh, one more tip for lowered 05s... You need to cut off the first level of the urethane snubber on the axle. Otherwise you will bottom out on it on launch, and that's not good for traction either .

Unless its an Eibach kit (shorter snubbers are included). I cant say for other companies though.

Power Surge said:
Yes you can only adjust the upper link, but that's the one that sets your pinion angle. You could do it with the lower links, but then you have to worry about keeping the rear square from side to side with adjustable lowers. Nothing wrong with that, just one more thing to have to do though.

The adjustment with the "Race" LCA is easy side to side, all you need to do is measure from one end to the other and you hardly need to get under the car to do it.

Even though you mention Metco as being "the best" I doubt it performs any better than the BMR pieces. Just so people dont start going around with the idea that BMR is cheap. You should become a BMR reseller to better serve your customers, just my opinion.

-Dan

Power Surge · Aug 20, 2005

Cleveland, my Eibachs didn't come with any snubbers .

As for the control arms, I didn't mean to make it sound like the BMRs were junk or anything. The other guy commented on why I sell the Metcos, and there are attributes about them that I feel are worth the extra money. The BMRs look like nice pieces, but lots of guys won't tolerate the noise of a rod end on a street car. I go through this all the time with our Caltracs for the Lightnings, people complain about the noise of the rod end. If you can live with that, there is no reason to not keep the BMRs, but you still need to address the angle issue.

05canuck · Aug 22, 2005

Ok after having a chat with the wife about how much noise she could handle I've decided to ebay mine and look at a Steeda or Sal's Metco's, The reason is simple I have the felling the wife is going to bitch untill I would take them out and I'm using Steeda springs so I don't think I'm even going to worry about them not being adj and just get a adj panhard but I still love the way they look I hope the alum ones look as good on. I have yet to see a pic that really shows the 2, Thanks for the advice Dan and Sal

BMR Race Lower Control Arm Install

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start with the upper hole, and if more traction is

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start with the upper hole, and if more traction is

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