Body & Paint Guys HELP

not an expert at all but was the car wet sanded after painting ? if not that can get out some of the imperfections

04sonicblueGT said:

not an expert at all but was the car wet sanded after painting ? if not that can get out some of the imperfections

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Was it wet sanded before is more like it. Was the vehicle properly prepped? Was it sprayed in an enclosed area? Was it primered correctly? Was it baked properly and consistently?

I am no paint expert, just remembering some things from auto shop class.

Cars do not have to be baked. I paint in my garage, but it is clean, I wet the floor have an exhaust fan and professional paint and clear products, and a professional gun. Also, I have a regulator on my 200 compressor. Baking just speeds up the drying time.

I get minimal dust in my paint. But dust can be wet sanded and rubbed. I used 2000 grit for a car I am just flipping! But for my Mustangs, I used 3 coats of clear, start with 1000, 1500, then finish with 2000. I rub it with 3M Perfect III Extra Cut, then go over it with Wizards Finish Cut. WOW! All my cars have flat paint, huge depth, and they shine for years!! I would only suggest doing these steps if you know what you are doing, and if he used professional paint and clear such as Dupont, Nason, or House of Kolors. If he used spray bomb Murrays, Auto Zone, Dupli-Color or any other paint in a can, these steps will not work.

Orange peel happens from the paint drying too fast. There are different reducers for the paint, and different activators for the clear. Low temp, Mid, and High. They are all good only to a certain degree of temp. Another reason orange peel happens is spraying the car too fast. He needs to slow down his strokes, but if you go too slow you get paint drips. Paint drips can be wet sanded out, if they are not too large.

Haze in the roof I think you mentioned, is caused because he cleared that first, then sprayed the rest of the car, and the roof was drying while all the overspray from the gun, while spraying, fenders, hood etc...landed on the dried clear.

Black is the easiest color to paint, it just seems hard when you are not experienced. It is hard to make look good when wet sanding and rubbing, because it shows everything. If he likes his jobs that were white and silver, this is because those colors hide everything!! They don't show dust, dirt, orange peel, or even bad body work. I can assure you he would be unhappy with those jobs if they were black.

Body panels do not have to be primed before you paint. I only use primer if I have fixed dings, dents, key scratches, stone chips, rust etc....Primer is used to fill in low spots, then you block it down using 150, or 320. Then you prime it again, untill you think it is flat. The more you block and prime, the flater the body panel will be. It is unlimited to how much you can do this. You do not need to lay down primer on a perfectly good car, that you just want fresh paint on.

Anymore questions, just ask me.....thanks...

fabfordtech said:

Thank you SVT32VDOHC, thats the exact info I was looking for and it all makes sense. He painted it at his house in a open post and beam building with no doors and a gravel floor. His paintjobs on motorcycles looked killer, and I figured a car wouldnt be so hard, well I guess I was wrong. I know paint jobs are you get what you pay for, **** the MAACO job, no base no clear just Gloss paint for $300. He did the 3 coats base and 3 clear for $600, but ****ed it up. Offered me my money back, but itd cost me twice what he charged me to fix it and do it right, so I told him to do it again when his booth is built all the way. You could deffinatley give him some advice though. Thx Chris

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Gravel floor= NO GOOD...walking over it and dragging the hose over it will kick up everything.

Paint jobs on bikes look good, because there is minimal movement, and the smaller the job the faster it gets done. It is not drying out while he is painting other peices.

$600 bucks is a great price for a complete job, but if it looks bad, that really sucks for you.....at least he will give you your money back!

Try to have him repaint it in his booth.

Also, ask him what brand and type of paint, clear, basemaker, and activator he used, and let me know.

Any time.

SVT32VDOHC said:

Gravel floor= NO GOOD...walking over it and dragging the hose over it will kick up everything.

Paint jobs on bikes look good, because there is minimal movement, and the smaller the job the faster it gets done. It is not drying out while he is painting other peices.

$600 bucks is a great price for a complete job, but if it looks bad, that really sucks for you.....at least he will give you your money back!

Try to have him repaint it in his booth.

Also, ask him what brand and type of paint, clear, basemaker, and activator he used, and let me know.

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we painted the 86 in the garage...what we did was wet down the floor and then put clear plastic sheet over the whole floor...keeps the dust out of the paint..

Black is by far the easiest to paint.Black is black.White is the hardest color to match when painting.There are so many different shades.When I have painted white cars I paint the whole thing.White is awesome to paint because it hides bad body whork alot easier then red,brown,and black.The easiest thing to do is wet sand clear off and start over.Did he have a moisture filter in the air line?

Wetting the floor works wonders, just try not to drag the hose and splash water on the car....I did that, but luckily it was on a panel I had not painted yet, I always carry a rag and tack cloth in my back pockets.