Body & paint pros; about priming and sealing

65ShelbyClone · Sep 19, 2005

My '68 had a badly rotten vinyl roof that I have no intention of replacing. Not surprisingly, water got under the cracked vinyl, lifted the paint, and started some slight surface rust(37 years, original top, and only surface rust). I tore the whole mess off and started stripping the roof.

Heres my issue: I wont have the money to paint the car for a while; maybe a year or more, but I still need to drive it. It will also likely be parked outside. What can I do about priming the roof and other sanded areas that will keep moisture out for the long term? I searched and read about epoxy combo primers that can sit long periods indoors, but I need this to hold against some rain too. I have an HVLP gun to use, BTW.

Thanks.

Thenemesis · Sep 19, 2005

PPG primer epoxy.. tint it black if you choose to make it like a hotrod.. our 68 (see sig) is primered black with chrome and welds.. wanna talk about mean.. and its sealed type of primer that it wont fade or mess up from water after driving it around lol thats our final color on the car, but i tell ya that is the BEST stuff ive ever used.. me and my dad used it on about everything, the paint may chip but i havent had a situation yet where the primer, while on top of a diff paint job, chipped..

hungrymonkey · Sep 19, 2005

what types of paint can you throw over that? Or will it need to be stripped and re-primered?

Thenemesis · Sep 19, 2005

You can do anything ya want.. its basic primer thats been sealed to withstand exterior type conditions.. its the best you can get basically.. i recomend it to anyone and especially any first era stangs.. about the best deal for ya.. if we decide to paint the 68 we can just take off the trim, double check the smoothness of the body and such.. and then shoot it.. basic prep work of smoothing but other than that.. good to go

hungrymonkey · Sep 19, 2005

hmm, sounds like what I need.

I am in the same situation, I cannot afford a nice paint job, nor do I want one right now. I still have to do some cut and hack sheetmetal work.

Thenemesis · Sep 19, 2005

go to a PPG dealer, tell em ya want there best primer and tinted black.. with the weather sealants.. this car has some problems and so we just primered after the major work and can just come back on the little stuff.. right now its about to be blocked so you cant see the bondo and then puttin the interior in.. she fires up on the first try to.. 2 spins and let the loudness begin

65ShelbyClone · Sep 20, 2005

Thenemesis said:
PPG primer epoxy.. tint it black if you choose to make it like a hotrod.. our 68 (see sig) is primered black with chrome and welds.. wanna talk about mean.. and its sealed type of primer that it wont fade or mess up from water after driving it around lol thats our final color on the car, but i tell ya that is the BEST stuff ive ever used..

What color is it right out of the can? Black is alright for now, but the car will eventually be mostly white.

Presently my '68 is dark metallic blue and had a black roof, so I did a quick shot with rattle can black primer. I figure I'll keep the roof black and other primered areas black to better match the dark paint. It will also have black 15x7" steel wheels and will most definitely sound nasty, so I'm with ya on the looking mean part.

hungrymonkey · Sep 20, 2005

mine is krylon flat black right now

It looks awful mean for a $20 paintjob

txwoody · Sep 20, 2005

(Thenemesis PPG primer epoxy.. tint it black if you choose to make it like a hotrod.. our 68 (see sig) is primered black with chrome and welds.. wanna talk about mean.. and its sealed type of primer that it wont fade or mess up from water after driving it around)

Thenemesis I hate to tell you this but epoxy primers do not seal out water. It is not a sealed type of primer. Now it seals the water out better than a urethane primer. But over time water will still pass through. There is no primer that will seal out water, they have to make primer porous so that it can be sanded. The only thing that will seal out water is paint. The best thing to do is either paint it or put some cheap primer or something and take it back off when you get ready to paint it.

If you came into my store and asked for this, well it would become one of thoes funny stories that we tell people. Sorry not trying to be mean but it's true. There is no such thing.
"go to a PPG dealer, tell em ya want there best primer and tinted black.. with the weather sealants"

65ShelbyClone · Sep 20, 2005

Well hell.

What about flat or satin color coats? I've heard that flat paint can also be porous, but I wouldn't mind trying out a semi-gloss or satin to see how well I can shoot it(Trans-Am hood idea)...or even gloss black. It would keep the current vinyl top look without looking like rotten upholstery.

BTW, what does a decent paint generally cost by the pint/quart/gallon/etc? If its like $100/pint then I guess I cant afford to just "practice".

txwoody · Sep 20, 2005

Flat or satin colors are fine. They are just paint with a flatting agent put in them. You see people putting these flat primers and running them on their cars. The best thing to do is paint with a flat single stage paint or with a base and a flat clear.

As far as prices if you just want to pratice all paint mgf. have there own lower line of paint. PPGs is the omni line. Its not bad paint for the price.The price depends on the type of paint s/s or b/c and color. For the most part a gallon of s/s in the Omni MTK(urethane) setup with the hardners and reducer sould be about 120.00 the b/c would be about 220.00. You live in SoCal so prices and avability may be different. In the automotive paint world every thing is different for the state of CA.

Here is a link that you can find your local PPG jobber.
http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmFindDistributor.asp

If you need anything else just let me know.

Thenemesis · Sep 20, 2005

well hell it does hold up better, maybe thats what i was thinking.. but you have to admit its one of the better primers out there... and our cars a sunny sky/non rainy night driver.. prostreet isnt a daily driver by no means , my dad got it from the shop so i suppose he knows more about it than me.. you can run it as a regular paint job for a while.. probably the better idea if its just a sunday cruiser hotrod and your not planning on rainy conditions.. anywho sorry about the mix up this guy knows more lol

hungrymonkey · Sep 20, 2005

http://www.leopardsystems.com/paint....php?f=1&sid=7288e2f69f1192be6fc7ce80e576c97e

I had another paint specific forum, but I cant find the link. it was something like autobody101.com

or something to that effect.

txwoody · Sep 21, 2005

Thenemesis said:
well hell it does hold up better, maybe thats what i was thinking.. but you have to admit its one of the better primers out there... and our cars a sunny sky/non rainy night driver.. prostreet isnt a daily driver by no means , my dad got it from the shop so i suppose he knows more about it than me.. you can run it as a regular paint job for a while.. probably the better idea if its just a sunday cruiser hotrod and your not planning on rainy conditions.. anywho sorry about the mix up this guy knows more lol

You are right it is very good stuff and holds up very well. I just hate to see any primer on a vehicle being driven daily for any length of time and then painted. I have seen it several times after its painted these bubbles start forming and then they blame the paint. Then you have to tell them its not the paint its the rust under the paint. Its just not worth it these days when you can spend from 600.00 to 800.00 on paint alone.

68rustang · Sep 21, 2005

The PPG primer I would recommend is the DPLF series. Then pick the specific number based on what color you want. You could save a little money and use the PPG Omni line. However I do not remember which number is similar to the DPLF. However neither one will totally seal out water as somebody already said. GP001 had his car in black DPLF for a while then he realized it was washing off when he washed the car or something. So he cleared right over the primer to seal it for good until he finishes the rest of the car.

65ShelbyClone · Sep 21, 2005

Thanks everyone for the insight and recommendations.

txwoody said:
Flat or satin colors are fine. They are just paint with a flatting agent put in them. You see people putting these flat primers and running them on their cars. The best thing to do is paint with a flat single stage paint or with a base and a flat clear.

As far as prices if you just want to pratice all paint mgf. have there own lower line of paint. PPGs is the omni line. Its not bad paint for the price.The price depends on the type of paint s/s or b/c and color. For the most part a gallon of s/s in the Omni MTK(urethane) setup with the hardners and reducer sould be about 120.00 the b/c would be about 220.00. You live in SoCal so prices and avability may be different. In the automotive paint world every thing is different for the state of CA.

I know that you cannot substitute a primer for a top coat, but an I also assume that you cannot use a flat color coat as a primer? No matter, I'm going to strip the car down to metal and do everything right with quality materials when the time comes. Also, since I'm going to strip it later anyway, could I get by by using some rattle-can enamel for a temporary sealer?

Yes, CA is "different", perhaps even special. Too bad its the "special ed" special.

txwoody · Sep 21, 2005

65ShelbyClone said:
No matter, I'm going to strip the car down to metal and do everything right with quality materials when the time comes. Also, since I'm going to strip it later anyway, could I get by by using some rattle-can enamel for a temporary sealer?

Yes, as long as you know that you need to get rid of it later that will be fine.

65ShelbyClone · Sep 21, 2005

Good deal .

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