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Brake Issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bodezafa
  • Start date Start date Apr 22, 2011
B

Bodezafa

New Member
Apr 21, 2011
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Apr 22, 2011
#1
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #1
I had some brake problems. LR and LF pads wore all the way down while the Right side was fine. I ordered new ceramic pads and rotors all the way around and figured I would paint the calipers while I had it apart. The LR caliper was seized. I couldnt get it to twist back in. Even rented the tool from advanced auto parts to try to get the piston back in but the tool wouldnt work. I replaced the caliper and bled it with no issues. Didnt have any problems with any other caliper. I replaced all the hardware on the rest of the calipers for good measure. Put it all back together drove it around and smelled somethin funny. Figured it was just the coating on the rotors wearing off. I started to see a bunch of brake dust on the wheels, the LF had a lot more than the rest and I noticed it was VERY hot after driving. I wanted to test it so I drove around town a little and down shifted instead of braking as much as possible. After I got home the the LF rotor was too hot to touch. The RF rotor was warm but I could touch it. I figured that was proof that the pads were sticking. I replaced the LF caliper and the rubber brake line. Bled the caliper and its all back together. After I bled the caliper I was not able to turn the rotor by hand after the brake pedal was released. I had to work the caliper right to left and do the same with the rotor before I was able to turn the rotor. Is this normal? Im getting a little frustrated with this brake job.
I did have a slight issue when replacing the brake line. The brake line came with 2 copper washers. I only seen noticed one while attaching the brake line to the caliper. Tightened it all down and it leaked while bleeding. I couldnt figure out the issue... then I saw the other washer. So I put that on also. Now the brake hose bolt went through 2 washers then the block on the brake line then into the caliper. Still leaked when I tried to bleed the caliper. It leaked right from the block at the caliper.. Then I took one washer off, put it between the block and the caliper and then it stopped leaking and I was able to bleed the caliper. I dont think this is how it should be...but its working. Could the washer setup be the reason why I cant turn the rotor by hand? Could it be something else? or is it normal?
Thanks in advance for any input.
 

Maxium

Member
Jul 22, 2009
33
2
9
Apr 22, 2011
#2
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #2
As for the rotors not being able to spin freely because of the brakes is not normal. If I remember correctly, the two copper washers are placed between the banjo bolt head to the "block" of the brake line and between the block of the brake line to the caliper itself. They should be crushed into place (just make sure you torque the banjo bolt nice and tight), thus making a good seal.
As for the driver side dragging, you're sure that the slide pins are greased and the seals are in good shape? When you had the calipers were off, was it easy and smooth to push the piston back? Perhaps the distributor block is clogged?
 
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Bodezafa

New Member
Apr 21, 2011
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Apr 22, 2011
#3
  • Apr 22, 2011
  • #3
I replaced all the hardware on each caliper when I replaced the calipers. New pins, bolts, seals and anti rattle clips. I greased all the pins before I put them in. It was easy to push the piston back in on all of them except the rear one I replaced. But I replace the LF caliper anyway.
 
B

Bodezafa

New Member
Apr 21, 2011
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Apr 24, 2011
#4
  • Apr 24, 2011
  • #4
could it be the master cylinder?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,273
17,962
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Massachusetts
Apr 24, 2011
#5
  • Apr 24, 2011
  • #5
What is the car? There are a few different brake systems 94-04 so hard to give advice without knowing what car it is.
 
B

Bodezafa

New Member
Apr 21, 2011
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Apr 25, 2011
#6
  • Apr 25, 2011
  • #6
Sorry. Its a 99 GT Vert.
 
B

Bodezafa

New Member
Apr 21, 2011
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Apr 25, 2011
#7
  • Apr 25, 2011
  • #7
I did crack open the bleeder to try to release some pressure thinking that might help. some fluid came out but the rotor still wouldnt turn. I took the caliper off and the rotor turns no problem.
 
B

Bodezafa

New Member
Apr 21, 2011
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Apr 26, 2011
#8
  • Apr 26, 2011
  • #8
I have the car on jack stands all the way around now. The RF wheel is very hard to spin. The 2 back wheels have some drag but I can turn them with one hand. If I give it the old wheel of fortune spin it wont go around 1 time. Is that too much drag for the rear?
 

Maxpowers

Member
Sep 9, 2009
859
2
19
Pittsburgh, Pa
Apr 26, 2011
#9
  • Apr 26, 2011
  • #9
Bodezafa said:
I have the car on jack stands all the way around now. The RF wheel is very hard to spin. The 2 back wheels have some drag but I can turn them with one hand. If I give it the old wheel of fortune spin it wont go around 1 time. Is that too much drag for the rear?
Click to expand...

That is too much drag for any wheel. It should spin freely.

Is it possible that your emergency brake is hanging up? Does the caliper that you changed work properly?

There is a possibility that your ABS is screwing up your brakes. Is the ABS hooked up, and is the light on in your dash?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,273
17,962
224
Massachusetts
Apr 26, 2011
#10
  • Apr 26, 2011
  • #10
These are front calipers dragging?

Those Pbrs are notorious for seizing after pushing the pistons in. Check to see that the caliper is not hanging up as i suspect it is.
 
B

Bodezafa

New Member
Apr 21, 2011
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Apr 26, 2011
#11
  • Apr 26, 2011
  • #11
yeah the fronts are dragging. I have replaced one caliper hoping that would fix the issue. Using a C clamp I pushed the pistons back in and then hit the brakes, it was still doing it. Its like the pistons are not retracting after the brakes are released.
 

Maxium

Member
Jul 22, 2009
33
2
9
Apr 27, 2011
#12
  • Apr 27, 2011
  • #12
I had a similar issue when I was using the GT PBR brakes. I eventually just took both the fronts off of the car, disassembled the calipers (took the pistons out), put new rubber rings in, and put it all back together. Before doing this, the piston was pretty tough to push in with just my thumbs (caliper not connected to the brake lines) and afterwards, I could move the piston easily with just my thumbs. If you're out of ideas, this might be something you want to try.
 
B

Bodezafa

New Member
Apr 21, 2011
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Apr 30, 2011
#13
  • Apr 30, 2011
  • #13
Thanks for the idea. One of the calipers is new tho..
 
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