Brake lights

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xero0620

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Jul 15, 2008

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Vacaville Ca.

Jul 26, 2008

#21

• Jul 26, 2008

• #21

When I took the old switch off there was a plasic piece inside the hole of the mastercylinder arm. It goes inside that hole and then the switch slides on over the end of the mastercylinder arm, then that whole piece goes over the pin on the pedal. Are you telling me that this plastic peice should not be there? I have no idea if the master cylinder was replaced or not. I originally stated that the brake lights worked at one time, but last night my wife told me that when she thought they worked it could have been just that my headlights were on. She did say she almost ran into me when I stopped.

 

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xero0620

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Jul 15, 2008

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Vacaville Ca.

Jul 26, 2008

#22

• Jul 26, 2008

• #22

If I took the switch out the the picture and completed the circuit and it still didnt work then its not that plastic piece. It may be part of the picture but its got to be a wire like zookeeper said.

 

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xero0620

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Jul 15, 2008

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Vacaville Ca.

Jul 26, 2008

#23

• Jul 26, 2008

• #23

Spliced a wire into the power out of the plug, ran it to the trunk, spliced it into the two bulbs, end of story brake lights work. Thanks for the help guys.

 

66 Restomod

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Jan 2, 2007

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Raleigh, NC

Jul 27, 2008

#24

• Jul 27, 2008

• #24

NewStangOwnr said:

I have a weird problem maybe someone could shed some light on. (haha no pun intended)
One of my brake lights is really bright, and one is dim. Tailights work. I am honestly stumped.

Click to expand...

+1

Start a new thread so we can figure it out!

 

BarnStang

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2001

1,260

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39

Hagerstown, MD

Jul 27, 2008

#25

• Jul 27, 2008

• #25

Do your rear turn signals still work properly? Can't tell what year the car is..By all means, you need brake lights, and what you did is an effective solution. The brake lights go through the turn signal switch. If your turn signals still work, then your brake light problem lies between the brake light switch and the turn sig switch. If you do a search, there is a ton of posts on this problem, with diagrams and pictures. Post back if the turn signals do not work, and the year of the car.

 

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xero0620

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Jul 15, 2008

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Vacaville Ca.

Jul 27, 2008

#26

• Jul 27, 2008

• #26

Its a 68 Coupe.
You got me on that one. I checked today for the turn signals and this is what happend:

Brake lights work.
Turn signal on, front signals work on both sides.
Both rear signals do nothing when brakes are applied.
When brakes are released, both lights flash as if the hazard lights are on but they are not. Right or left signal make both lights flash.

 

BarnStang

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2001

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Hagerstown, MD

Jul 28, 2008

#27

• Jul 28, 2008

• #27

I was afraid of that. The wire you ran hooked both brake lights together. When you put a turn sig on, it travels accross the wire you put in to the other brake light. THe brake lights run through the turn sig switch.
When working correctly, pushing the brake pedel sends 12v to both turn signals via the turn sig switch.
It also tells us that if your turn signals are working, then the brake light problem is between the brake light switch and the turn sig switch. Most likly the connector at the steering column. Look for a pin pushed out of the connector. Or, you may have to pull the steering wheel to get to the turn sig switch. Not much you can do but replace it, but lets make sure that what it is first. Here are some graphics if I can get them to fit:

 

BarnStang

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2001

1,260

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Hagerstown, MD

Jul 28, 2008

#28

• Jul 28, 2008

• #28

So if I posted a graphic in another thread, the system won't let me post the same graphic in a different thread? I get an error that says I have already posted this graphic. I'll try another way...

OK, there is a photobucket link to show you how the circuit works.

 

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xero0620

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Jul 15, 2008

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Vacaville Ca.

Jul 28, 2008

#29

• Jul 28, 2008

• #29

Man this is way confusing. So is that graphic in the steering column. I wish there was someone around here that knew what the hell was going on that could help.

 

BarnStang

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2001

1,260

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Hagerstown, MD

Jul 28, 2008

#30

• Jul 28, 2008

• #30

THat is the turn sig switch. It's easy to think of it as plumbing. 12v is the water, the switches are the valves. Where the line is labeled "From brake switch" thats 12v coming in from the brake switch. The graphic shows the turn sig centered, then right turn sig, then left turn sig. You can see how the pads move over the different contacts and connect different wires together. THis is how the turn sig switch allows the brake lights to come on. If your foot is on the brake, and the left turn sig is on, then the left light will blink, and the right will stay on steady. ANd vise versa.
Wiring is not something you can tear into. You will need to slow down and understand the circuit, and see where you are losing the connection. For now, look at the curved connector going to the steering column. Make sure there are no pins pushed out backwards. If you have 12v to one side of the brake light switch, and 12v on the other side of the brake light switch when the pedel is pushed, then you are good to go "from that point". THe next connection point is the curved connector. THen the turn sig switch under the steering wheel.
I know how frustrating it can be. But we can fix it. Let us know what you find next.

Where are you located? THere may be someone near you that can help. If you like, (and some perfer not to) you can edit your profile and put your location up so everyone can see where you are at...

 

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xero0620

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Jul 15, 2008

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Vacaville Ca.

Jul 28, 2008

#31

• Jul 28, 2008

• #31

Im located in Vacaville CA.

Are the wires coming out of the bottom of the steering column with the plastic connector the ones I need to check if a pin is loose?

 

BarnStang

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2001

1,260

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Hagerstown, MD

Jul 28, 2008

#32

• Jul 28, 2008

• #32

Yes, see if there is a pin pushed back out of one side or the other.

 

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xero0620

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Jul 15, 2008

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Vacaville Ca.

Jul 28, 2008

#33

• Jul 28, 2008

• #33

Im not sure if im at this point yet but would it be worth it to just replace all the plastic internals that comes with the wires? They are a bit pricey but the plastic in there is brittle.

 

BarnStang

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2001

1,260

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Hagerstown, MD

Jul 28, 2008

#34

• Jul 28, 2008

• #34

The connectors are attached. Yu would need a new under dash harness and a new turn signal switch. The pins can be extracted from each side, but I have not seen replacement connecters. You would have to replace them with used connecter shells. Let us know when you have taken a look at the curved connector going into the steering column.

 

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xero0620

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Jul 15, 2008

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Vacaville Ca.

Jul 29, 2008

#35

• Jul 29, 2008

• #35

It will be tomorrow. The Air Force keeps me busy.

 

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xero0620

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Jul 15, 2008

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Vacaville Ca.

Jul 29, 2008

#36

• Jul 29, 2008

• #36

Well I looked at the plug and there is one pin missing in the top right corner of the plug and im confident that it isnt the one I need. The wires im chasing appear to be green with what looks like a red stripe on one or both. Im not sure how to test for bad wires in the column. Everything looked ok. I was also told that the emergency flasher switch might be the problem. Im not sure what to do next.

 

BarnStang

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2001

1,260

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Hagerstown, MD

Jul 29, 2008

#37

• Jul 29, 2008

• #37

You will need a test light and/or some help at this point. The ony thing left is to prove the turn sig switch is the fault or not. If you jumper accross the brake light switch like you did before, put the turn signal switch in the center position, you can check and see if you have 12v leaving the turn sig sw. On a 68, 12v should depart the turn sig sw on an Orange with Blue stripe wire (Right hand brake light) and on an Green with Orange stripe wire (Left hand brake light). You could probe these two wires on the steering column harness to see if you have 12v coming out of the turn sig sw.
If you do, then the problem is further down the line, if you don't, double check that you still have 12v leaving the brake light switch going into the turn sig switch. If you still don't have 12v out on either of those two wires, then the turn sig switch must be the problem.
I know it sounds confusing, but it's nothing more than pushing the brake pedel, the switch sends 12v up to the turn sig switch, where it is split out to the left and right brake light, and routed out to the bulbs. You have to find where you are losing the 12v power at.
I guess you need to decide what you want to do next.

 

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xero0620

New Member

Jul 15, 2008

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Vacaville Ca.

Jul 29, 2008

#38

• Jul 29, 2008

• #38

lol
So when I jump the brake switch am I looking for 12 volts at the plug for the steering column wires? With it jumped I simply test for the light to light up?

 

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xero0620

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Jul 15, 2008

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Vacaville Ca.

Jul 29, 2008

#39

• Jul 29, 2008

• #39

The test light lights up when I touch the back side (Steering column out side) of the two specific wires and the brake pedal is pushed. I dont get what this tells me other than the turn signals have power going to them. That still dosent fix the original problem of the brake lights not working once I remove the direct wire. Since there is juice leaving on those two wires, would I be able to splice in on those wires, somewhere around the brights foot switch and run two wires to the rear and get the results im after?

 

BarnStang

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2001

1,260

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Hagerstown, MD

Jul 29, 2008

#40

• Jul 29, 2008

• #40

OK, not done yet. If you have 12v on both of those wires with the brake pedel pushed, that tells you the turn signal switch is not the problem. THere is a problem between where you checked with the test light and the taillights. THere are connecters that hook the rear harness to the under dash harness up under the left side of the dash. RIght below the heater controls. THe harness that runs to the back goes down inside the chassis behind the kick panel and runs under the drivers sill plate. Under the heater controls, the connecter you are looking for is a small white plastic two pin connecter. THe clasp tabs are normally broken and this connecter can come apart. THe two pins (and wires) in this connecter are the same two wires (electrically) you tested coming out of the steering column.

If it's disconnected, this is your problem. Reconnect it. Remove your temp wiring and test brake lights. If it is connected and tight together, disconnect and check for 12v on each pin with the brake pedel pressed. Same as before. If it's good to there, the problem is farther down the line. If you don't get 12v with the brake pedel pressed here you know there is some problem between the two wires coming out of the turn sig sw and that connecter.
Note: When you pull this connecter apart, understand that one end goes to the turn signal switch, the other end goes to the taillights. You should see 12v one one side (the side coming from the turn sig sw) and not the other (wires going to the tail lights. CHeck that and see what you come up with.