broken bolt help

You should look at getting it out. Over time it will leak. Where did it snap off at? The head? Any length of it sticking out of the block? Snapping a bolt on the pan is a sure sign you over torqued the thing by quite a bit.
 
its like 1 bolt behind the middle bolt on the side of the pan...i barly turned it so im curious if it had already been stressed before or something. i dont think any is sticking out. i didnt pull the pan off. if its not sticking out at all...how do i get it out?
 
Let it stay unless you develop a leak or you do the "car show" thing.

You might be one of the lucky ones and no oil will appear under the car. The next time you remove the pan enough of the bolt will be visible to take a pair of pliers and remove what is left.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

animtruck.gif
 
DukeGnarley said:
i've never had good luck with easy outs, they always snap off.


How's that? They are hardened and in his case, he says he applied very little torque so it should just about fall out. I've used them to take out exhaust manifold bolts with success.
 
19mustang65 said:
its like 1 bolt behind the middle bolt on the side of the pan...i barly turned it so im curious if it had already been stressed before or something. i dont think any is sticking out. i didnt pull the pan off. if its not sticking out at all...how do i get it out?

If you broke it tightening it, it will probubly come out easy. Remover the pan and sue a very small flat blade chisel and a small ballpein hammer. Gently tap on the stud in a CC direction to loosen it until it comes out far enough to grab with pliers. The pan bolts are generally well lubricated so it should come out easy.

Be gentle and be patient.
 
An easier way to remove a broken bolt ( actually THE best way) Pull that oil pan, then get a mig welder, take a 5/16 nut, place it over the broken bolt using a pair of pliers. fill the center with the welder. Then just use a wrench to remove the bolt. Works EVERY TIME, you don't have to worry about drilling holes in a tiny ass 1/4" bolt, then worrying about snapping the easy-out off in the block ( then using my method to remove the mess :D )
 
I've busted a good easyout off in a bolt before as well. But it was in a Chevy so I figured that was part of it. Distributor hold down bolt on an aluminum TBI manifold in a '88 truck. It was cheaper to buy a used maifold and gaskets than to pull the manifold and have the stuff burnt out.
 
1320stang said:
I've busted a good easyout off in a bolt before as well. But it was in a Chevy so I figured that was part of it. Distributor hold down bolt on an aluminum TBI manifold in a '88 truck. It was cheaper to buy a used maifold and gaskets than to pull the manifold and have the stuff burnt out.


I use only Craftsman stuff. That way, if it ever breaks, which it never has for me, it is a free replacement. The EZ out isn't a miracle worker. It may need some help in the form of thread lube or maybe even heat, but I have never failed to get something out that I wanted out with em. In his case, since it broke with little or no torque, it would be the first thing I reach for.
 
An EZ out will/should work for this application.

However, when you have a frozen/rusted bolt that is so difficult to remove that you've snapped the head off - no way will an EZ out remove it. I've never broken an EZ out, but they just won't remove a bolt in that situation.

At that point you have to drill and retap or possibly helicoil the hole.
 
Ozsum2 said:
Hack, try heat next time. It should help.
Been there, done that. at least a handfull of times. You're right heat helps. I'm pretty carefull not to apply too much torque and break off a fastener, but when the threads are seized so badly that the head will twist off, an EZ out cannot apply more torque gripping inside the fastener than the entire thickness of the fastener will support.

I still try an EZ out every time, but it has never worked for me in that situation. Helicoil and/or retapping works.