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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Built Rear End

  • Thread starter Thread starter helty
  • Start date Start date Nov 24, 2005

helty

some Ukrainian's enjoying a handjob via my credit
Mar 30, 2005
1,461
1
39
Baltimore, MD
Nov 24, 2005
#1
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #1
ok guys, this is the last weekend the track is open until Feb. during the winter i'm thinking about beefing up my drivetrain, focusing on the rear end. I just got a set of DR's and dont want to have to worry about snapping an axle or screwing something up at the track, bc its my DD and dont want to be left high and dry. i know im not putting down much more power than stock, but the mods will continue and i like having peace of mind.

this is what I'm thinking:
Moser/FRPP 31 Splines
FRPP/Eaton/Auburn/Detroit Locker Differential
FRPP aluminum driveshaft
McLeod Clutch
all new bearings and seals
FRPP 4.10s (which i already have installed)

my questions are:
which brand differential do you all recommend?
same question about the 31 splines? are the FRPP's just as strong as the Mosers?
Would it just make more sense going with FRPP all around (differential/axles/gears)? or is there anything wrong going with say, the Moser axles and one of the above mentioned differentials?

I also plan on doing Kooks or SLP LT's sometime after the new clutch is installed for a little more giddy-up, and probably some MM LCA's to help me hook. i'm also looking into springs. i know the stock springs are pretty good for weight transfer (right) but i gotta get rid of that 4x4 look. i have a set of new H&R sport's in my closet, but im afraid they will hurt my launches. What about FRPP "B" or "C" springs? which will give me a better look but still offer decent weight transfer? i dont know much about spring rates and what they mean. then probably some tokico 5-ways all around. im expecting tom to chime in on this one.

i know its a lot of questions, but i appreciate all the help. thanks
 

RedBullitt

New Member
Jul 7, 2004
462
0
0
Morgantown WV
Nov 24, 2005
#2
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #2
both brands are good, just remember with other stuff, like most things that you get what you pay for. theb and c springs are not really that drag friendly, but they do look good and make a difference in handling. maybe get those adjustible shocks and some drag springs
 

03ghoststang

Well-Known Member
Jul 16, 2005
1,930
1
57
Los Angeles, California
Nov 24, 2005
#3
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #3
all of those parts sound good for the rear but as long as you are satisfied with what you put on
 

jasonh_86

I
May 20, 2005
1,156
2
48
Arkansas
Nov 24, 2005
#4
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #4
Man.. that plan sounds like total garbage.. you might as well sell the car and buy a Cobalt SS!!

Haha!! J/K!!!!

That sounds like a good plan to me man! I'm hopin to do something of the sort this winter, if I can ever get some cash flow
 

03-s281

New Member
Jan 20, 2004
421
0
0
Stangville,TN
Nov 24, 2005
#5
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #5
I went with the Detroit Trutrac, Moser 31 spline axles, Moser girdle, Moroso studs, and Royal Purple fluid. Also welded axle tubes and torque boxes.
Holds up to 6krpm launches on slicks and acts like stock on the street.
 

jasonh_86

I
May 20, 2005
1,156
2
48
Arkansas
Nov 24, 2005
#6
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #6
03-s281 said:
I went with the Detroit Trutrac, Moser 31 spline axles, Moser girdle, Moroso studs, and Royal Purple fluid. Also welded axle tubes and torque boxes.
Holds up to 6krpm launches on slicks and acts like stock on the street.
Click to expand...

Holy Crap!!! that's a nice setup ya got there!!

Sorry to hijack thread, but what do people mean when they say they had their axle tubes welded? i'm a n00b about that stuff
 

03-s281

New Member
Jan 20, 2004
421
0
0
Stangville,TN
Nov 24, 2005
#7
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #7
jasonh_86 said:
Holy Crap!!! that's a nice setup ya got there!!

Sorry to hijack thread, but what do people mean when they say they had their axle tubes welded? i'm a n00b about that stuff
Click to expand...
Thanks, the axle tubes have seams in them from the factory because they are slipped together. They need to be welded so the axle tube never turns on violent launches.
 

jasonh_86

I
May 20, 2005
1,156
2
48
Arkansas
Nov 24, 2005
#8
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #8
oohhh.. gotcha!

Yeah, that'd make very good sense to do that.. glad somebody educated me on that one
 

Jackie Chan

I didn't read this.
Founding Member
Oct 17, 2002
2,507
4
48
Orlando, FL
Nov 25, 2005
#9
  • Nov 25, 2005
  • #9
if you have the money and don't mind giving up a lil bit of drivability and plan on slicks...go with the locker and superior axles. i would pm automatic weapon on the depot and ask him about how it acts on the street though
 

BooWFO

New Member
May 10, 2005
991
0
0
Louisville, KY
Nov 25, 2005
#10
  • Nov 25, 2005
  • #10
Any of those setups sound good to me. I'd add in some Cclip elimantor though. Moser has a nice one out now.
The way I'm thinking is a Tlok 31 spline with extra clutches, moser axles with longer studs, cclip elim, and welding the tubes up.
 

Jackie Chan

I didn't read this.
Founding Member
Oct 17, 2002
2,507
4
48
Orlando, FL
Nov 25, 2005
#11
  • Nov 25, 2005
  • #11
BooWFO said:
Any of those setups sound good to me. I'd add in some Cclip elimantor though. Moser has a nice one out now.
The way I'm thinking is a Tlok 31 spline with extra clutches, moser axles with longer studs, cclip elim, and welding the tubes up.
Click to expand...
why would he need c-clip eliminators...his set is no where close to needing them
 

BooWFO

New Member
May 10, 2005
991
0
0
Louisville, KY
Nov 25, 2005
#12
  • Nov 25, 2005
  • #12
Jackie Chan said:
why would he need c-clip eliminators...his set is no where close to needing them
Click to expand...
Because they are cheaper than the body shop bill to fix the quaters if an axle snaps. Also don't have to get back in the rearend again.
 

helty

some Ukrainian's enjoying a handjob via my credit
Mar 30, 2005
1,461
1
39
Baltimore, MD
Nov 25, 2005
#13
  • Nov 25, 2005
  • #13
if it helps any, i'd like to this right the first time. so when i get blown down the raod, the only thing i'll have to do is switch to some 3.73s and have the axle tubes and torque boxes welded. thanks for all the help so far.
 

Jackie Chan

I didn't read this.
Founding Member
Oct 17, 2002
2,507
4
48
Orlando, FL
Nov 25, 2005
#14
  • Nov 25, 2005
  • #14
BooWFO said:
Because they are cheaper than the body shop bill to fix the quaters if an axle snaps. Also don't have to get back in the rearend again.
Click to expand...
if he snaps an axle off the line, the brakes will hold the axles in 99% of the time on our cars. now if it happens going down the strip(which is rare to say the least) thats a different story
 

03-s281

New Member
Jan 20, 2004
421
0
0
Stangville,TN
Nov 25, 2005
#15
  • Nov 25, 2005
  • #15
Jackie Chan said:
if he snaps an axle off the line, the brakes will hold the axles in 99% of the time on our cars. now if it happens going down the strip(which is rare to say the least) thats a different story
Click to expand...
My rotor tore completely away from the flange when I snapped my stock one (at the line)
 
C

comporange04GT

New Member
Jun 19, 2005
110
0
0
Nov 25, 2005
#16
  • Nov 25, 2005
  • #16
03-s281 said:
I went with the Detroit Trutrac, Moser 31 spline axles, Moser girdle, Moroso studs, and Royal Purple fluid. Also welded axle tubes and torque boxes.
Holds up to 6krpm launches on slicks and acts like stock on the street.
Click to expand...
This is the same set-up I just finished putting in my car 3 days ago and love it. I had the axle tubes straightened and welded too.

As for the c-clip eliminators mentioned above I think the decision to go with them depends on the use of the car. Since yours is a daily driver I think I would skip them since I have seen them leak in the past, but this is just my experience.
 
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